Seventeen years, or is it eighteen, I've lost count ... it's been such a very long time since touring on a motorcycle that I was almost as nervous as I was excited to be joining Cormanus, Ptero and NoRoToMo for a roll around the Victorian high country. Any pre-ride anxiety was quickly forgotted as the weather turned out perfect and so was the company of these fine gents. Being the novice tourer, that I am, the guys went all out to accommodate me given my limited experience and touring capabilities. My CB has lost a lot of its luggage carrying capacity so carrying enough gear to go camping was not an option, cabins or motels my only options. Many thanks boys for your flexibility, I owe you one.
Ptero's post and pics are tell the story beautifully, I don't have much to add. If you've got time and don't mind seeing a few maps of the route then keep reading for some stuff as seen from the inside of my visor ...
Day 1 - North Bound
Beautiful day, sunny, low 30'sC and just a light breeze, perfect for taking the windiest roads on the map that would land me somewhere near the town of Bright in Victoria's alpine region.
My buddy, Mick with the Barry Sheene tribute Suzuki, joined me for the first hour as we headed over the Kinglake Ranges into the quiet township of Yea. A coffee and toasted sandwich with a side order of tall stories about days gone by then it was time for Mick to turn around and I to continue north.
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Brunch at Yea
Next stop is Mansfield where there isn't much going on, a sleepy town in the foothills of the Victorian alps with a population of around 4000. Was a thriving city back in its hey day on the major stock route and serving the local gold mining industry. For me it was just a fuel and refreshment stop after a brisk ride on the boring straight roads from Yea.
Onwards to Whitfield. Now the roads start to get little more exciting as it passes over the top of a smaller mountain, i can't recall it's name. Plenty of curves and pretty scenery to keep up the interest level whilst making my way closer to meeting up with the guys. A quick stop at the Whitfield cafe for a coffee, home made muesli slice and chat with a table of locals having afternoon tea.
Whitfield to Bright through the King Valley famous for it's wines, produce and fine foods also meant it had a bit of traffic, it was a slow pace. End of Day 1 marked by a visit to the Alpine Hotel Bright where there was a very cold beer and a comfortable seat to wait for the boys to arrive ... on reflection I had time for two beers thanks to the fast run from Yea to Mansfield.
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A refreshing ale at Bright
Was a great catch up with the guys, we talked until the early hours of the morning.
Day 2 - Going around the bend
The AM
Well, if I enjoyed the roads on day 1 then the only way for me to describe day 2 is "bloody brilliant".
I had no idea where we were going and just didn't care, it was 'follow the leader' where the aim was to keep Ptero and Cormanus in sight. NoRoToMo was the responsible one keeping an eye on us all from the tail of the group - thanks mate. We rolled around a few hills going through Harrietville then over Mount Hotham on the highest coach road in Australia.
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NoRoToMo was cruising up behind us taking in the magnificent scenery.
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We're on top of Australia!
The road opens up into some big fast sweepers as we head down the mountain into Dinner Plain and onwards to Omeo. Stopping for a look at the ancient valley, this is where Ptero took that photo of the four helmeted amigos. A quick reconfirmation of where we're going but I didn't care as I'm doing my best impersonation of a dog being offered a joy ride - anywhere will do, let's go!
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So how was this place formed?
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Aha, that's how
Condition of the roads was really good, in particular the section from Ensay through Tambo Crossing on to Bruthen was just magnificent, great surface and easy to manage corners with no nasty surprises. It was just awesome to be cruising along with the boys soaking up the scenery of this beautiful valley and getting into the rthym of seemingly endless corners. From time to time when the boys knew I couldn't stuff up any of the route, i.e. no intersections to make a wrong turn at, they'd let me have a run in the front seat where the view is even better. It's about now that I kick myself for waiting 17 years to do this again, made a promise to self to do it again next summer.
The PM
Lunch at Bruthen, bid farewell to NoRoToMo then head back up the same road but this time we turn right at Omeo and head to Mitta Mitta. More absolutely stunning scenery and roads that must have been crafted by a crew of hardcore motorcyclists, the road into Mitta Mitta is black top heaven just ask InHouseBob. We're talkin' head turnin', body leanin', peg srapin', fun roads.
A great meal at the Mitta Mitta pub and some very entertaining conversation at the dinner table. Ptero and Cormanus have been touring together for years and it shows when you get them talking over a wine or two. They're a bit like two radio show DJs, they'll keep you entertained the whole night with banter and tales of previous trips.
Day 3 - About face
In the morning we shook hands and said cheerio. I see from Ptero's post that they had some excellent camping for the next two nights, I'm glad.
During the previous night there was a little rain and very strong winds which had blown a lot of tree litter all over the roads. That great road out of Mitta Mitta now had small branches, tree bark and a lot of damp leaves all over it so the pace was a bit slower but still in the fun zone. It was back along the same road toward Anglers Rest however this time I had to stop and wait for a farmer to hustle about 50 head of cattle along the highway. Not sure what his plan was as there didn't seem to be any fields for them, maybe down to the river for a swim?? Anyways, these 50 cattle had been walking on the road for at least 3 kilometers and had left what seemed like thousands of cow pads all over the road! As much as I tried to avoid each one another would splatter under my wheels and get baked to the engine crankcase. I learned that cow poop is very slippery as the bike wiggled and wobbled many times. After clearing the cow poop minefield I rounded WTF corner named by the bicycle riders that frequent these roads because as soon as you turn that corner the road seems to head vertically like a wall. The next 36 kilometers of winding, narrow, road is a pure delight as it delivers the traveler to the top of Falls Creek ski village via Mount Cope.
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It's the longest continuous section of twisties that I've ever seen sign posted
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Getting very cold up here - thanks Ptero for the loan of your inner gloves.
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Car park at Falls Creek ski resort
From here it's all down hill except for a quick sprint over a hill into Bright.
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A fuel stop at Bright then back home the way I came. Not sure how many kilometers all up, somewhere around 1400, nothing compared to the Cormanus and Ptero's epic journeys but big for me. The cafe racer did a great job, no discomfort and no hairy moments ... ready to do it all again next summer.