Which oil at low miles

[Tortuga_imp]

I just purchase this for the break in period.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61...L1500_.jpg

Seemed like a good way to go if you don't mind how much it costs... ouch.

It won't hurt anything, but that oil is designed for a "quick" break-in, that is, a couple of track sessions, rather than the methodical, even-handed method we've all used in carefully settling in the clearances on our beloved, classic, air-cooled babies.

Well, some of us.

Keep in mind one thing, too; the engines for which that break-in oil was formulated were not meant to last too long before tear-down. Excessive lubrication during break-in, for a road-going vehicle, is not necessarily a good thing. It could prevent parts from properly mating to one another.

I know that didn't sound right but there it is.

*Sigh*...I use whatever oil the owners manual calls for. Their engineers have this stuff figured out and the last thing Honda or any other manufacturer wants to do is have to cover the cost of warranty work for a failed engine etc...am I missing something with that line of thinking?

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.
I love it..hehe.

I noticed the owners manual (which I still haven't opened, I read a PDF version on here briefly) states that you must NOT use vegetable oil in the engine. That could have solved the whole debate since I believe corn oil only comes in one grade.

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.
I love it..hehe.

I noticed the owners manual (which I still haven't opened, I read a PDF version on here briefly) states that you must NOT use vegetable oil in the engine. That could have solved the whole debate since I believe corn oil only comes in one grade. People just don't understand, we've got to "do something" (paraphrasing [url=http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/life/movies/reviews/2010-06-04-greek04_ST_N.htm]Aldous Snow, here). I suggest alternative lubricants, like the old, used, fryer oil found in drums behind Chinese restaurants. If we all converted to that stuff, the onset of Global Heating would be delayed by 0.000000001 seconds.

Have a care, folks, and save Spaceship Earth! You have been warned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It won't hurt anything, but that oil is designed for a "quick" break-in, that is, a couple of track sessions, rather than the methodical, even-handed method we've all used in carefully settling in the clearances on our beloved, classic, air-cooled babies.

Well, some of us.

Keep in mind one thing, too; the engines for which that break-in oil was formulated were not meant to last too long before tear-down. Excessive lubrication during break-in, for a road-going vehicle, is not necessarily a good thing. It could prevent parts from properly mating to one another.

I know that didn't sound right but there it is.

*Sigh*...I use whatever oil the owners manual calls for. Their engineers have this stuff figured out and the last thing Honda or any other manufacturer wants to do is have to cover the cost of warranty work for a failed engine etc...am I missing something with that line of thinking?

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.
I love it..hehe.

I noticed the owners manual (which I still haven't opened, I read a PDF version on here briefly) states that you must NOT use vegetable oil in the engine. That could have solved the whole debate since I believe corn oil only comes in one grade.

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.
I love it..hehe.

I noticed the owners manual (which I still haven't opened, I read a PDF version on here briefly) states that you must NOT use vegetable oil in the engine. That could have solved the whole debate since I believe corn oil only comes in one grade. People just don't understand, we've got to "do something" (paraphrasing [url=http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/life/movies/reviews/2010-06-04-greek04_ST_N.htm]Aldous Snow, here). I suggest alternative lubricants, like the old, used, fryer oil found in drums behind Chinese restaurants. If we all converted to that stuff, the onset of Global Heating would be delayed by 0.000000001 seconds.

Have a care, folks, and save Spaceship Earth! You have been warned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, funny you should say that Red...

Some years ago a friend of mine decided to run (fuel) his old LDV van on Chinese takeaway waste oil. On approaching a few local ones he was informed that they NEVER change the oil, just top it up!!

For a man who likes a chow mein, that was a worrying thought for my arteries!

Anyhoo..he found a pub that DID change their oil, and filtered the stuff through his birds tights (his lady's pantyhose) and then poured it into the van's tank.

All was @~*^zngiggles until the first cold Autumn (fall) morning when the thing refused to start.

I came over and gave him a tow start in my truck, and he went straight to the petrol station (gas station) for diesel...

[Deanohh_imp]

Yeah the fern-fondlers were going to save the world with biodiesel until someone found out that cold weather made it turn to jelly.

[Tortuga_imp]

Yeah the fern-fondlers were going to save the world with biodiesel until someone found out that cold weather made it turn to jelly.

Actually, there are pre-heaters that 'warm' the veg oil before it gets to the injectors, so it can work. I feel it's more to do with Government tax revenue than anything 'mechanical'.

I know a guy who ran his own truck on shop bought veg oil for years with BETTER performance and a quieter, smoother engine. It was 55p per litre vs diesel at £1.15

[Red Mist_imp]

Yeah the fern-fondlers were going to save the world with biodiesel until someone found out that cold weather made it turn to jelly.

Fern-fondlers; now THAT is funny!

[ThomWill_imp]

Yeah the fern-fondlers were going to save the world with biodiesel until someone found out that cold weather made it turn to jelly.

Actually, there are pre-heaters that 'warm' the veg oil before it gets to the injectors, so it can work. I feel it's more to do with Government tax revenue than anything 'mechanical'.

I know a guy who ran his own truck on shop bought veg oil for years with BETTER performance and a quieter, smoother engine. It was 55p per litre vs diesel at £1.15

Pre-heaters for the vegetable oil? With just a little more pre-heat power, we could run bacon grease! Imagine the exhaust aroma! I would be like the Pied Piper riding around town.

[dBuster_imp]

You could lead our group! Road captain for you

Sent from my XT1055 using Tapatalk

[Rolls_imp]

Florence Henderson advocates using oil with Wessonality, but I still just use what the manual says.

I will be interested in Flyinrider's oil analyses on synthetic in the CB750 compared to Dino in the hot conditions in PHX, though.

[Tortuga_imp]

Yeah the fern-fondlers were going to save the world with biodiesel until someone found out that cold weather made it turn to jelly.

Actually, there are pre-heaters that 'warm' the veg oil before it gets to the injectors, so it can work. I feel it's more to do with Government tax revenue than anything 'mechanical'.

I know a guy who ran his own truck on shop bought veg oil for years with BETTER performance and a quieter, smoother engine. It was 55p per litre vs diesel at £1.15

Pre-heaters for the vegetable oil? With just a little more pre-heat power, we could run bacon grease! Imagine the exhaust aroma! I would be like the Pied Piper riding around town.

Pre-heaters for the vegetable oil? With just a little more pre-heat power, we could run bacon grease! Imagine the exhaust aroma! I would be like the Pied Piper riding around town.

Cold starts smell like a chip shop (fries). Hot starts and warm weather the exhaust is reminiscent of a donut stall. Saaweeeet!

(Don't ask me how I know this)

[dospalmas_imp]

Ok, I know I'm going to get shot for this (starting another dreaded oil thread) but I'm confused as to what I should use for my impending second service at 400 miles (lol).

I'm sure the dealer either didn't do a service at 100 or if they did just chucked some bulk tank crap in.

I saw various 10-30W motorcycle specific oils on eBay, however some are fully synth and others part. I'm under the impression fully synth is for higher mileage bikes, so I need part synth, but.....

Would I be ok to use Castrol or Rock Oil semi synth 10-30W motorcycle oil or will my head explode if I don't use Honda branded oil, which seems to be rare on my Island.

Hi Tortuga. Paul Here. I'm new to this forum but have been riding for many years. This is only my opinion and the way I break in New Engines.
During your engines brake in period, you want parts to mate/seal and wear in. As an example, the Pistons Rings, need to wear/polish the cylinder walls they ride against. This ensures good compression develops and long engine life. The cylinder walls are "Cross Hatched" honed, that is you could say, roughed up, to ensure the rings "seat" and form a good seal against the cylinder walls during brake in.
Oil technology has come so far as the years went by. The oils have become so good, that fully synthetic oil could hinder or at least prolong this seating and brake in. I use the the oil Honda recommends but the non synthetic. In my opinion this ensures good brake in as parts wear in. This has worked well for me over the years. As the miles increase, I sometimes switch to fully synthetic depending on my bike and use at the time. Please follow Honda's Recommendations for your new bike, and have fun.

Yes.

I've used full synthetic oils for the last several years in all my cars, trucks and motorcycles from the first oil change on. Have never had an issue with oil usage in any of them. I changed to Honda Synthetic 10W-30 at the first oil change and will stay with it or an equivalent motorcycle synthetic oil. I expect to have the same trouble free performance I've had in all my other vehicles.

The non synthetics are fine also I think they just need to be changed more often because of faster viscosity breakdown compared to synthetic oils.

A different way to express that is that synthetics can "theoretically" go well beyond the recommended oil change intervals. The interval in the specifications is based on petroleum-based oil. An interval for synthetic oil is not available. So there is no advantage to synthetic in that sense, as one would be voiding the warranty by going longer than the specified time between oil changes. Honda will want receipts or other proof of proper servicing.

The idea is that synthetic does not break down as quickly, but in our motorcycle, the clutch subjects the oil to additional stresses and contaminants, so the conservative approach of sticking with the manual's recommendations serves well.

It's not just the clutch, but also the transmission. As the oil is squashed between the gears, it breaks down the polymer chains in a multiweight oil which affects the viscosity (this is called shearing). Higher temperatures typically encountered in an air cooled engine also tend to break down the base oil.

If you want to know what is real going on in your crankcase, there's no substitute for oil analysis. I was concerned about my oil (in the CB750) due operating in 100+ degree temperatures much of the year. Between the shearing and the excessive heat, I was suspicious that my oil might be breaking down. After a few rounds of oil analysis, I found that my JASO-MA dino oil was indeed breaking down prematurely. After 1500 miles of cooking and churning in the summer heat, my 15w-40 oil had been reduced to a 20 weight at 100C. I've since switched to synthetic, which has a base oil that is more resistant to heat related break down. I'll be doing a few more analysis runs this summer to see if the synth helps.

I suspect that if you ride in more reasonable temperatures, dino or synth will probably hold up OK between regular change intervals. An oil analysis will let you know for sure.

It's not just the clutch, but also the transmission. As the oil is squashed between the gears, it breaks down the polymer chains in a multiweight oil which affects the viscosity (this is called shearing). Higher temperatures typically encountered in an air cooled engine also tend to break down the base oil.

If you want to know what is real going on in your crankcase, there's no substitute for oil analysis. I was concerned about my oil (in the CB750) due operating in 100+ degree temperatures much of the year. Between the shearing and the excessive heat, I was suspicious that my oil might be breaking down. After a few rounds of oil analysis, I found that my JASO-MA dino oil was indeed breaking down prematurely. After 1500 miles of cooking and churning in the summer heat, my 15w-40 oil had been reduced to a 20 weight at 100C. I've since switched to synthetic, which has a base oil that is more resistant to heat related break down. I'll be doing a few more analysis runs this summer to see if the synth helps.

I suspect that if you ride in more reasonable temperatures, dino or synth will probably hold up OK between regular change intervals. An oil analysis will let you know for sure. Nice, lucid, and useful reply Flyrider! The next question is, how many miles on dino oil should one run on a new engine in a hot climate before switching to synthetic? After the first oil change at a few hundred miles, or longer, maybe after a thousand miles?

[flynrider]

Ok, I know I'm going to get shot for this (starting another dreaded oil thread) but I'm confused as to what I should use for my impending second service at 400 miles (lol).

I'm sure the dealer either didn't do a service at 100 or if they did just chucked some bulk tank crap in.

I saw various 10-30W motorcycle specific oils on eBay, however some are fully synth and others part. I'm under the impression fully synth is for higher mileage bikes, so I need part synth, but.....

Would I be ok to use Castrol or Rock Oil semi synth 10-30W motorcycle oil or will my head explode if I don't use Honda branded oil, which seems to be rare on my Island.

Hi Tortuga. Paul Here. I'm new to this forum but have been riding for many years. This is only my opinion and the way I break in New Engines.
During your engines brake in period, you want parts to mate/seal and wear in. As an example, the Pistons Rings, need to wear/polish the cylinder walls they ride against. This ensures good compression develops and long engine life. The cylinder walls are "Cross Hatched" honed, that is you could say, roughed up, to ensure the rings "seat" and form a good seal against the cylinder walls during brake in.
Oil technology has come so far as the years went by. The oils have become so good, that fully synthetic oil could hinder or at least prolong this seating and brake in. I use the the oil Honda recommends but the non synthetic. In my opinion this ensures good brake in as parts wear in. This has worked well for me over the years. As the miles increase, I sometimes switch to fully synthetic depending on my bike and use at the time. Please follow Honda's Recommendations for your new bike, and have fun.

Yes.

I've used full synthetic oils for the last several years in all my cars, trucks and motorcycles from the first oil change on. Have never had an issue with oil usage in any of them. I changed to Honda Synthetic 10W-30 at the first oil change and will stay with it or an equivalent motorcycle synthetic oil. I expect to have the same trouble free performance I've had in all my other vehicles.

The non synthetics are fine also I think they just need to be changed more often because of faster viscosity breakdown compared to synthetic oils.

A different way to express that is that synthetics can "theoretically" go well beyond the recommended oil change intervals. The interval in the specifications is based on petroleum-based oil. An interval for synthetic oil is not available. So there is no advantage to synthetic in that sense, as one would be voiding the warranty by going longer than the specified time between oil changes. Honda will want receipts or other proof of proper servicing.

The idea is that synthetic does not break down as quickly, but in our motorcycle, the clutch subjects the oil to additional stresses and contaminants, so the conservative approach of sticking with the manual's recommendations serves well.

It's not just the clutch, but also the transmission. As the oil is squashed between the gears, it breaks down the polymer chains in a multiweight oil which affects the viscosity (this is called shearing). Higher temperatures typically encountered in an air cooled engine also tend to break down the base oil.

If you want to know what is real going on in your crankcase, there's no substitute for oil analysis. I was concerned about my oil (in the CB750) due operating in 100+ degree temperatures much of the year. Between the shearing and the excessive heat, I was suspicious that my oil might be breaking down. After a few rounds of oil analysis, I found that my JASO-MA dino oil was indeed breaking down prematurely. After 1500 miles of cooking and churning in the summer heat, my 15w-40 oil had been reduced to a 20 weight at 100C. I've since switched to synthetic, which has a base oil that is more resistant to heat related break down. I'll be doing a few more analysis runs this summer to see if the synth helps.

I suspect that if you ride in more reasonable temperatures, dino or synth will probably hold up OK between regular change intervals. An oil analysis will let you know for sure.

It's not just the clutch, but also the transmission. As the oil is squashed between the gears, it breaks down the polymer chains in a multiweight oil which affects the viscosity (this is called shearing). Higher temperatures typically encountered in an air cooled engine also tend to break down the base oil.

If you want to know what is real going on in your crankcase, there's no substitute for oil analysis. I was concerned about my oil (in the CB750) due operating in 100+ degree temperatures much of the year. Between the shearing and the excessive heat, I was suspicious that my oil might be breaking down. After a few rounds of oil analysis, I found that my JASO-MA dino oil was indeed breaking down prematurely. After 1500 miles of cooking and churning in the summer heat, my 15w-40 oil had been reduced to a 20 weight at 100C. I've since switched to synthetic, which has a base oil that is more resistant to heat related break down. I'll be doing a few more analysis runs this summer to see if the synth helps.

I suspect that if you ride in more reasonable temperatures, dino or synth will probably hold up OK between regular change intervals. An oil analysis will let you know for sure. Nice, lucid, and useful reply Flyrider! The next question is, how many miles on dino oil should one run on a new engine in a hot climate before switching to synthetic? After the first oil change at a few hundred miles, or longer, maybe after a thousand miles?

Well, I don't have any data other than what I mentioned. When I got my CB11 last year, I went to synthetic at the 600 mile oil change, just to play it safe.

This will be the first full summer running both bikes on synthetic, so I'll be doing a change and oil analysis on both, probably around July.