Drive Chains

[michael1954]

I do not know if this has ever been discussed here, I could not find it.
My question relates to Drive Chains. Do they have to be one continuous chain, no master link added, or can you buy a new Drive chain, and join it with a Master Link.
Question arises because the Clymer Manual says the Drive chain on the GS 750 needs to be the OEM continuous chain with no Master link added by the rider. I have never heard this before, but that is nothing new. I was hoping it states this because in 1980, chain master links and Drive chains were not that good. I bought a good Drive Chain with a Master link from a company that makes Drive Chains for many different bikes, with two new sprockets. In the old days we always replaced both sprockets with a new chain. But on my Suzukis in the late 60's/early 70's, we used Master links.
I need some advice on this one, please.

[Gone in 60]

On my last Honda chain bikes, I've always bought something close, removed links as needed, and joined with a master link, using a riveting tool. I don't necessarily like the clip type, but that's just me. I don't see what's special enough about the 1100 that it would need a continuous chain. Anyone?

[Lord Popgun]

Our CB1100s do not have a continuous chain. It has a link that is staked, not a clip on master link. The Service manual has detailed specs for the staking process.

[the Ferret]

For an old GS750 if you are not going to beat on it or power shift it, a clip master link will be fine. If you are going to flog it, it's safer to put a stake type master link on it.

Always put a clip style master link with the rounded part facing the direction of chain spin. Like a fish swimming the direction of chain travel.

And make sure the clips are properly in the grooves on the pins.

[michael1954]

For an old GS750 if you are not going to beat on it or power shift it, a clip master link will be fine. If you are going to flog it, it's safer to put a stake type master link on it.

Always put a clip style master link with the rounded part facing the direction of chain spin. Like a fish swimming the direction of chain travel.

And make sure the clips are properly in the grooves on the pins.

Thanks, every piece of info will help. Now I do not feel like a I bought a Drive Chain I would not be able to use.

[iamheero_imp]

I have replaced a chain previously and have my second chain here ready to be installed. Both times I went with a D.I.D. 530 ZVM-X chain with riveted master link and I use my Motion Pro PBR Chain Tool to do the replacement. It's just a slightly beefier version of the chain on the bike from the factory as far as I can tell and works very well. No special continuous chains needed, I believe a riveted chain is preferred to the clip style for the CB due to its power.

[Houtman_imp]

I also used the DID ZVM.X chain on my bikes , nicely nickel plated and easy to keep clean.

[LakeWylieJoe_imp]

Modern bikes (including our CB1100) come with continuous chains from the factory because they can be installed while the swingarm is being attached to the frame. Replacement chains come with a master link so you don't have to remove the swingarm to replace them. Be sure to get the rivet type (not clip) and use a proper staking tool. Also be sure to use new sprockets when installing a new chain.