What do you know about the CX500?

[JustPassinThru_imp]

This all is instructive. I briefly had a GL500...same engine. No problems with the carbs; what got me to sell was it needed a complete brake-system replacement. NO parts...the GL500 was a two-year model that Honda abandoned; different brakes from the CX.

I always wanted to get another one of those Honda V-twins...but this is a reality check. FI is really a miraculous thing; and while it costs more it's cheap in the long run. I should stick with what works...a MODERN bike.

Good luck on yours. It's too bad Honda didn't take development of that model into a more modern machine...

[Cormanus]

Well...the electrical system didn't fry out when I added a power source....





Engine cranks, but won't turn over. Got a fuel problem in that when I open the fuel valve, gas just pours out of the bottom of the carbs. Tightened up what I believe to be the drain screws, but that didn't really help much. Too hot outside to continue tinkering, but sort of happy that the electrical is not completely shot.

MTC, don't over tighten those drain plugs. The carburettor bowls have a drain tube which runs down the centre of the plugs and drains fuel from the bowl if it is overfull. If a drain tube is split or cracked fuel will flow down the tube if the bowl is not overfull and leak from the plug. Cracks, or splits, in the overflow tubes can be difficult to see so inspect carefully. However, as both your carbs leak it is unlikely to be the cause unless both drain tubes are split or cracked. You will have to pull the carbs to do this inspection.

In your case, as both carbs leak, maybe the float valves are not seating correctly. This could be caused by the float valve and seats being contaminated by crud from the fuel. Try this before pulling the carbs: Turn off the fuel at the fuel tap and open both floatbowl drain screws and drain the fuel from both carbs. As the bowls empty the floats drop and the needles drop away from the seats. When the bowls are empty turn the fuel back on and tap the carbs with a screwdriver handle while the fuel drains through. About 15 seconds or so should be enough. Leave the fuel on and close the drains. With a bit of luck this will have flushed the crud through. Be careful when you do this as a fair amount of fuel will be lying around unless you can catch it. I would hate to see you barbecue yourself. I enjoy your ride reports too much .

However if this fixes the problem it will almost certainly occur again as more contaminant (crud) probably remains in the tank. Best to drain the fuel tank, flushing it with clean fuel to ensure no dirt remains. Fit a fuel filter.

If fuel still leaks after this (the clearing procedure) then you will have to pull the carbs. In which case check the valves and seats are in good condition and the valves are seating correctly with the floats in the full bowl position. Also check the integrity of the drain tubes. If you want to do a thorough job then rebuilding the carbs is not difficult.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Try this before pulling the carbs: Turn off the fuel at the fuel tap and open both floatbowl drain screws and drain the fuel from both carbs. As the bowls empty the floats drop and the needles drop away from the seats. When the bowls are empty turn the fuel back on and tap the carbs with a screwdriver handle while the fuel drains through. About 15 seconds or so should be enough. Leave the fuel on and close the drains. With a bit of luck this will have flushed the crud through. Be careful when you do this as a fair amount of fuel will be lying around unless you can catch it. I would hate to see you barbecue yourself. I enjoy your ride reports too much .
It's taken me a while to respond to this as I've had to search for a picture I took once on an island where every young man wants a motorcycle. Mostly they have scooters, but sometimes bikes up to 200ccs.

I came across this sight one day. I've always assumed the bloke was working on the bike and lit a cigarette ...