Bush mechanic - a little Gravel Rash removed

[Tyke57nz_imp]

Fit the Staintune


G`day Pterodactyl, I see you have a Staintune fitted and wonder what clearance you have between the bottom shock absorber mounting bolt and the exhaust itself with no rider whilst on centre stand or sidestand. I had one sent through by my brother and the clearance seems minimal after comparing with the original unit which has a factory deformation in that area to allow a large clearance. Photo would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Side stand


Centrestand

Clearance is about 5mm, by eye. If you want precise will measure tomorrow. When the suspension is working there should not be a problem. I have applied a deal of force and can't put the muffler against the suspension. I think you would have to have a severe drop for contact to occur. Monitoring of the mounting bushes should be part of routine checks. On the other hand if you want to remove the lower shock mounting bolt then the Staintune would have to be removed. Not a big deal. There are a number of members on the forum with Staintunes and no reported problems. If I can be of any further help let me know.

Cheers

Thanks for that, appreciate the time and effort. Was getting a bit late for me last night, will go out with a different mindset and get it sorted.

If your Staintune lacks clearance near the shock, loosen all bolts (actually, completely remove rear bolt) and twist the entire muffler in order to reorient its positioning at the point where it attaches to the exhaust. You will eventually find a position which allows the rear of the Staintune to clear the shock by a nice margin and also seats the rear mount bolt and rear exhaust mount tab nicely with the rear factory mount point. I experienced the same issue and am OCD with respect to these things. I think what happens is that we're all happy to simply get the thing on at the first attempt...it is only later that we focus on the details (primarily how it hangs at the rear mount point). Again, I suggest you budget 15-20 minutes to the effort...twist it around and push it in and out as necessary at the point where the Staintune connects with the factory pipe, it is likely not bent or improperly manufactured...you just need to find the positioning which seats the Staintune correctly at both ends.

Thanks for the info, was running a little late and probably should have left everything in the box till today. Will go out with a different mindset and it will all be sorted. Cheers

Thanks for that, appreciate the time and effort. Was getting a bit late for me last night, will go out with a different mindset and get it sorted.

If your Staintune lacks clearance near the shock, loosen all bolts (actually, completely remove rear bolt) and twist the entire muffler in order to reorient its positioning at the point where it attaches to the exhaust. You will eventually find a position which allows the rear of the Staintune to clear the shock by a nice margin and also seats the rear mount bolt and rear exhaust mount tab nicely with the rear factory mount point. I experienced the same issue and am OCD with respect to these things. I think what happens is that we're all happy to simply get the thing on at the first attempt...it is only later that we focus on the details (primarily how it hangs at the rear mount point). Again, I suggest you budget 15-20 minutes to the effort...twist it around and push it in and out as necessary at the point where the Staintune connects with the factory pipe, it is likely not bent or improperly manufactured...you just need to find the positioning which seats the Staintune correctly at both ends.

Thanks for the info, was running a little late and probably should have left everything in the box till today. Will go out with a different mindset and it will all be sorted. Cheers
Done and dusted with a small amount of tweaking, sounds good but being a wimp I won`t go out at the moment as its persisting down.

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Quote: Done and dusted with a small amount of tweaking, sounds good but being a wimp I won`t go out at the moment as its persisting down.
Donyamate. Good advice from xpacpal1x, you can twist and push/pull as much as you like to get the unit seated. There is some room for fore and aft adjustment built in to the bike mounting bolt hole. However, there is no room for adjustment in the rotational plane. Just make sure that the Staintune tab is vertical, that is aligned with the mounting tab on the bike.

Cheers

Watched the youtube link about "Bush Mechanics", they remind me of some people I know back in Louisiana, in fact, I have a cousin that is probably an alpha "Bush Mechanic".
Bike looks great, Ptero. How's the arm?

Bush mechanics, legends. Slipper bearings made from aluminium saucepans, pistons removed or replaced with heated hardwood, fuel tanks removed and replaced with 44gal drums and the standpipe raised in order to just add water to source the reserve and get to the nearest beer. Making a capacitor from the vehicle frame. Tyres stuffed with spinifex. The list goes on and on. The real bush mechanic is now a very rare breed. Just pay dollars and get the replacement part or plug in to the computer for a tuneup (sorry CIP ) is the new way. Better?, well, mostly I guess, but not always.

My neighbour has a Toyoto Tarago people mover. The headlight bulb blew. Replacement cost a few dollars. The problem lies in getting it fitted. The front of the vehicle needs to be pulled apart to get at it. Labour cost, about AUD200! A bush mechanic would put an axe through the nose cone for easy access rather than part with that hard earned.

OK, early morning rant out of the way. Thanks, David, for the enquiry about my arm. Its healing well. Surgeon (maybe a bush one!) did a great job and I am now almost at full extension. In two weeks, I hope, Last Blast rides again.

Cheers, Tony

[davidsargee_imp]

Quote: Done and dusted with a small amount of tweaking, sounds good but being a wimp I won`t go out at the moment as its persisting down.
Donyamate. Good advice from xpacpal1x, you can twist and push/pull as much as you like to get the unit seated. There is some room for fore and aft adjustment built in to the bike mounting bolt hole. However, there is no room for adjustment in the rotational plane. Just make sure that the Staintune tab is vertical, that is aligned with the mounting tab on the bike.

Cheers

Watched the youtube link about "Bush Mechanics", they remind me of some people I know back in Louisiana, in fact, I have a cousin that is probably an alpha "Bush Mechanic".
Bike looks great, Ptero. How's the arm?

Bush mechanics, legends. Slipper bearings made from aluminium saucepans, pistons removed or replaced with heated hardwood, fuel tanks removed and replaced with 44gal drums and the standpipe raised in order to just add water to source the reserve and get to the nearest beer. Making a capacitor from the vehicle frame. Tyres stuffed with spinifex. The list goes on and on. The real bush mechanic is now a very rare breed. Just pay dollars and get the replacement part or plug in to the computer for a tuneup (sorry CIP ) is the new way. Better?, well, mostly I guess, but not always.

My neighbour has a Toyoto Tarago people mover. The headlight bulb blew. Replacement cost a few dollars. The problem lies in getting it fitted. The front of the vehicle needs to be pulled apart to get at it. Labour cost, about AUD200! A bush mechanic would put an axe through the nose cone for easy access rather than part with that hard earned.

OK, early morning rant out of the way. Thanks, David, for the enquiry about my arm. Its healing well. Surgeon (maybe a bush one!) did a great job and I am now almost at full extension. In two weeks, I hope, Last Blast rides again.

Cheers, Tony

Bush mechanics, legends. Slipper bearings made from aluminium saucepans, pistons removed or replaced with heated hardwood, fuel tanks removed and replaced with 44gal drums and the standpipe raised in order to just add water to source the reserve and get to the nearest beer. Making a capacitor from the vehicle frame. Tyres stuffed with spinifex. The list goes on and on. The real bush mechanic is now a very rare breed. Just pay dollars and get the replacement part or plug in to the computer for a tuneup (sorry CIP ) is the new way. Better?, well, mostly I guess, but not always.

My neighbour has a Toyoto Tarago people mover. The headlight bulb blew. Replacement cost a few dollars. The problem lies in getting it fitted. The front of the vehicle needs to be pulled apart to get at it. Labour cost, about AUD200! A bush mechanic would put an axe through the nose cone for easy access rather than part with that hard earned.

OK, early morning rant out of the way. Thanks, David, for the enquiry about my arm. Its healing well. Surgeon (maybe a bush one!) did a great job and I am now almost at full extension. In two weeks, I hope, Last Blast rides again.

Cheers, Tony
Good to hear about the arm, don't overdo it, two weeks isn't really that long.

Lol, the "Bush Mechanics" really do remind me of some people I knew when growing up. I was raised in "backwoods" Louisiana, there was a family that lived near us that made their living as loggers, about 3 generations of them were there at the time. They had two log trucks that were unrecognizable from the originals due to their age and all of the "mods" that had been performed over the years to keep them operational. Also had a sawmill that was constructed from the engines and other various parts of other logging trucks that didn't make it.

The old man of the family could just about make anything startup and run with whatever was at hand, it could be pretty amazing.

[Pterodactyl_imp]

You must be talking about my Dad. He had an International log truck similar to your Louisiana neighbours. Axe, crosscut saw, a circular saw driven off the PTO, stamina, toughness and a disregard of personal danger were the tools required. Big men. One of my Dad's "offsiders" (the other end of the crosscut) was a man who is now regarded as one of Australia's great authors. He wrote the novel Capricornia, which was made, not very successfully, into a movie. He liked the the bush and the real people who toiled there. Anyway that is another story.

There is one place that the bush mechanic still flourishes. Believe it or not it's India and other countries of the sub-continent. You want something fabricated and you get one of those head waggles and the mechanic wallah goes about working miracles.

Cheers

[davidsargee_imp]

You must be talking about my Dad. He had an International log truck similar to your Louisiana neighbours. Axe, crosscut saw, a circular saw driven off the PTO, stamina, toughness and a disregard of personal danger were the tools required. Big men. One of my Dad's "offsiders" (the other end of the crosscut) was a man who is now regarded as one of Australia's great authors. He wrote the novel Capricornia, which was made, not very successfully, into a movie. He liked the the bush and the real people who toiled there. Anyway that is another story.

There is one place that the bush mechanic still flourishes. Believe it or not it's India and other countries of the sub-continent. You want something fabricated and you get one of those head waggles and the mechanic wallah goes about working miracles.

Cheers

That is interesting, you never know where you will meet someone like that, (the author). Otherwise, yep, sounds just like old Pete, everything you said, big, tough, and always had a non filter Camel stogie hanging from the lip. Not sure any of them read or wrote nearly well enough to author a book, though, .

Most of that mechanical ingenuity undoubtedly comes from the absolute necessity people in the bush, jungles of India, or swamps of Louisiana, have to make things work in order to survive. You never know what you can be capable of when your "arse" is on the line.

Cheers

[Cormanus]

This guy lacks Pterodacyl's artistry, but he's sure a bush mechanic. His cameraman is the cinematographic equivalent.

[dave]

Hi Pterodactyl, beautiful job, congratulations. I have some scratches I would like to repair on my VFR800 engine case; can you please answer a few questions? First, what does "etch prime" mean? Is this some kind of a special primer? second, what brand of paint did you use? Thank you.

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Hi Pterodactyl, beautiful job, congratulations. I have some scratches I would like to repair on my VFR800 engine case; can you please answer a few questions? First, what does "etch prime" mean? Is this some kind of a special primer? second, what brand of paint did you use? Thank you.

Hi Dave, thanks. Without seeing the case it's hard to give advice. As a rule it is best to paint the complete panel or part. This reduces the effect of any colour mismatch.

1. For an aluminium engine case (as in my pics above) first remove the scratches. If necessary start with a coarse grade wet and dry paper, or a file/emery wheel if it's really deep. Just be careful not to go so thin on the case that it's structurally degraded. Once you are back to shape, use decreasing grades of w/d paper down to about 400 grit, or even 1200 if you like, to get it as smooth as you can. Wash down with turps.

2. Mask off the area to be painted. Mask along joining seams or the edge of the piece if possible. Mask a big area as over-spray can travel huge distances. Throw covers over the rest of the bike. As you can see by my pics I just used painters masking tape and newspaper. Mine's as rough as guts but you get the idea.

3. What kind of paint? I used White Knight paints. It's Australian but I am sure you can source American products that are as good or better. On the side cover of the CB I used engine enamel, not hi temp enamel, as it doesn't get that hot. Colour aluminium. Have a look around the web site:

[url=http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/specialty-paints/high-temperature/engine-enamel]White Knight engine enamel

4. Before you go any further remember; PATIENCE IS THE KEY. Don't be in a hurry. It's counter productive.

5. Spraying with pressure pack paints is not difficult and for small areas is easier and cheaper than a spray gun and two pack paints etc. Read the directions on the can. If you have never painted before have a practice on another piece of material just to get used to the distance and rate of spray. First a misting spray then after a few seconds, nice parallel, slightly overlapping runs at the right distance, about 20cms from the piece. Keep the rate so that you don't get runs in the paint. If the pant runs then let it dry then rub it back.

6. Etch Primer is a paint that is designed to physically bond itself to the substrate to which it is applied. This is achieved by combining an acid with the paint so that the acid microscopically etches the surface of the substrate, thus forming a physical and chemical bond between the two. In most cases a colour will be added to the Etch Primer so that it can be seen. If you put enamel direct to metal it won't stick for long. With etch it sticks like the proverbial poop to a blanket.

7. I put one coat of etch then four coats of enamel (this will depend on the thickness and how your coats look). You may get some discolouration on the first and second coat of enamel but keep going, all will be well.

8. I used a gloss clear coat (two coats) to finish. I didn't bother with high temp, but high temp semi-gloss is available. Maybe even gloss, depending on the brand you choose. Don't be in a hurry to put the clear coat on. Give it three or four days, or longer, for the enamel to cure.

9. Let the whole shebang cure properly before polishing with something like "Mr Sheen"

10. Have a beer while looking at a thing of beauty.

Good luck and cheers.

[dave]

Hi Pterodactyl, beautiful job, congratulations. I have some scratches I would like to repair on my VFR800 engine case; can you please answer a few questions? First, what does "etch prime" mean? Is this some kind of a special primer? second, what brand of paint did you use? Thank you.

Hi Dave, thanks. Without seeing the case it's hard to give advice. As a rule it is best to paint the complete panel or part. This reduces the effect of any colour mismatch.

1. For an aluminium engine case (as in my pics above) first remove the scratches. If necessary start with a coarse grade wet and dry paper, or a file/emery wheel if it's really deep. Just be careful not to go so thin on the case that it's structurally degraded. Once you are back to shape, use decreasing grades of w/d paper down to about 400 grit, or even 1200 if you like, to get it as smooth as you can. Wash down with turps.

2. Mask off the area to be painted. Mask along joining seams or the edge of the piece if possible. Mask a big area as over-spray can travel huge distances. Throw covers over the rest of the bike. As you can see by my pics I just used painters masking tape and newspaper. Mine's as rough as guts but you get the idea.

3. What kind of paint? I used White Knight paints. It's Australian but I am sure you can source American products that are as good or better. On the side cover of the CB I used engine enamel, not hi temp enamel, as it doesn't get that hot. Colour aluminium. Have a look around the web site:

[url=http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/specialty-paints/high-temperature/engine-enamel]White Knight engine enamel

4. Before you go any further remember; PATIENCE IS THE KEY. Don't be in a hurry. It's counter productive.

5. Spraying with pressure pack paints is not difficult and for small areas is easier and cheaper than a spray gun and two pack paints etc. Read the directions on the can. If you have never painted before have a practice on another piece of material just to get used to the distance and rate of spray. First a misting spray then after a few seconds, nice parallel, slightly overlapping runs at the right distance, about 20cms from the piece. Keep the rate so that you don't get runs in the paint. If the pant runs then let it dry then rub it back.

6. Etch Primer is a paint that is designed to physically bond itself to the substrate to which it is applied. This is achieved by combining an acid with the paint so that the acid microscopically etches the surface of the substrate, thus forming a physical and chemical bond between the two. In most cases a colour will be added to the Etch Primer so that it can be seen. If you put enamel direct to metal it won't stick for long. With etch it sticks like the proverbial poop to a blanket.

7. I put one coat of etch then four coats of enamel (this will depend on the thickness and how your coats look). You may get some discolouration on the first and second coat of enamel but keep going, all will be well.

8. I used a gloss clear coat (two coats) to finish. I didn't bother with high temp, but high temp semi-gloss is available. Maybe even gloss, depending on the brand you choose. Don't be in a hurry to put the clear coat on. Give it three or four days, or longer, for the enamel to cure.

9. Let the whole shebang cure properly before polishing with something like "Mr Sheen"

10. Have a beer while looking at a thing of beauty.

Good luck and cheers.

Hi Dave, thanks. Without seeing the case it's hard to give advice. As a rule it is best to paint the complete panel or part. This reduces the effect of any colour mismatch.

1. For an aluminium engine case (as in my pics above) first remove the scratches. If necessary start with a coarse grade wet and dry paper, or a file/emery wheel if it's really deep. Just be careful not to go so thin on the case that it's structurally degraded. Once you are back to shape, use decreasing grades of w/d paper down to about 400 grit, or even 1200 if you like, to get it as smooth as you can. Wash down with turps.

2. Mask off the area to be painted. Mask along joining seams or the edge of the piece if possible. Mask a big area as over-spray can travel huge distances. Throw covers over the rest of the bike. As you can see by my pics I just used painters masking tape and newspaper. Mine's as rough as guts but you get the idea.

3. What kind of paint? I used White Knight paints. It's Australian but I am sure you can source American products that are as good or better. On the side cover of the CB I used engine enamel, not hi temp enamel, as it doesn't get that hot. Colour aluminium. Have a look around the web site:

[url=http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/specialty-paints/high-temperature/engine-enamel]White Knight engine enamel

4. Before you go any further remember; PATIENCE IS THE KEY. Don't be in a hurry. It's counter productive.

5. Spraying with pressure pack paints is not difficult and for small areas is easier and cheaper than a spray gun and two pack paints etc. Read the directions on the can. If you have never painted before have a practice on another piece of material just to get used to the distance and rate of spray. First a misting spray then after a few seconds, nice parallel, slightly overlapping runs at the right distance, about 20cms from the piece. Keep the rate so that you don't get runs in the paint. If the pant runs then let it dry then rub it back.

6. Etch Primer is a paint that is designed to physically bond itself to the substrate to which it is applied. This is achieved by combining an acid with the paint so that the acid microscopically etches the surface of the substrate, thus forming a physical and chemical bond between the two. In most cases a colour will be added to the Etch Primer so that it can be seen. If you put enamel direct to metal it won't stick for long. With etch it sticks like the proverbial poop to a blanket.

7. I put one coat of etch then four coats of enamel (this will depend on the thickness and how your coats look). You may get some discolouration on the first and second coat of enamel but keep going, all will be well.

8. I used a gloss clear coat (two coats) to finish. I didn't bother with high temp, but high temp semi-gloss is available. Maybe even gloss, depending on the brand you choose. Don't be in a hurry to put the clear coat on. Give it three or four days, or longer, for the enamel to cure.

9. Let the whole shebang cure properly before polishing with something like "Mr Sheen"

10. Have a beer while looking at a thing of beauty.

Good luck and cheers. Ho Pterodactyl - thank you very much. I'll google "etch primers" and see what I find.

[Ridem32_imp]

Neat bicycle. I like the camshaft and long push rods. Motor seems to run good. Just needs new tires on bike lol