Advice on sprocket replacement?

[Inhouse Bob]

I'm doing lots of maintenance on the bike and want to replace the chain and sprockets. The chain and back sprocket are sort of clear, but the front is a mystery. My service manual is no help. It shows how to reassemble everything but has nothing on how to take it all apart. I tried turning the book upside down but that didn't help much. 
So, do I have to disassemble the clutch hydraulics to remove the plate covering the front sprocket? I feel like if I remove those assorted bolts holding the plate in place, all my clutch juice will spill out on the ground.
Has anyone done this surgery and can give me a rough tutorial?
Thanks in advance!

[Cormanus]

I've done it, Bob, but I can't remember exactly how. I know, though, that I didn't lose the clutch juice in the process. The slave cylinder comes off intact leaving the pipework connected and you can then get at the front sprocket OK.

By the way, if I can do it, you'll have no trouble. I can't even get the bonding on my service manual to go back together!

[peterbaron]

^^+1^^

Very simple operation, tool needed 8, 10, 14 or 17, 22, 27 mm wrench or/and socket, ratchet, torque wrench..don't remember exact bolts/nuts sizes..
If you don't have an impact gun, you will have to lock up the front sprocket prior removing its bolt and then torqued it to the spec, 40 ft-lbs??
If you have the shop manual, read it prior wrenching.. p 9-3/9-4, 6-12/6-14

1. remove gear shifter arm from the gear shifter spindle
2. remove all the bolts and the L side cover, allen key M5 or M6?
3. remove gear shifter position switch
4. remove 3 long M6 bolts and swing aside the clutch slave cylinder with the hose attached, do not pump clutch lever or/and separate any hydraulics - keep it as a one unit , won't leak
5. remove clutch push rod and clean it
6. remove the bolts and the cover to gain access to the front sprocket/bolt
7. may have to remove the chain guide plate??
8. give the chain enough slack prior removing the front sprocket
9. remove the the bolt and the front sprocket
10. clean the greasy mess. I use brake cleaner

11. re-assemble in the reverse order
12. pump the clutch lever a couple of times and shift through gears prior riding.

Yes, you can do it!

P.S. keep your service book on the flat table and don't turn it upside down to be successful...otherwise lots of info will be missing  

[pekingduck]

Just as Peter says.  
I assume you are replacing the rear sprocket.  Front sprockets usually outlast rear ones by about a 3:1 ratio, so you likely won't need to touch it until 30K miles.  If you get in there and remove it, but see no wear, flip it over for even more sprocket life.  If you don't use an air or electric impact gun/wrench, the best way to hold the sprocket still is to put it in a higher gear (not 1st or 2nd), and put pressure on the brake pedal, while the old chain is in place.

Also, it's easiest to loosen/tighten/torque the rear sprocket bolts in the same way, with the wheel in place, rather than struggling with the wheel laying on the ground.

[Inhouse Bob]

Thanks all! Great advice and guidance. I'm at 37k miles so I guess it's about time, though I honestly think everything looks pretty fresh. Next thing, y'all will be telling me I shoulda checked the valve clearances by now! 

[peterbaron]

Bob, practice with the sprockets first ….. before you dig in the upper end/valves…. as the sprockets to valves ratio is 2:16~1:8…