chain slack

[Jfro5687_imp]

you all are overlooking one thing... there is a green and red zones marked on your adjusters. if you have proper length chain and it's not old and stretched from excessive miles, if the adjusters are in the green zone, you're fine.

this from cb750, but shows my point

Not to derail the slack conversation, but I feel this applies somewhat...

I just performed my first chain clean and lube today and have now adjusted the chain to as close to 1 inch of free play as I could get (owing to the few people here who agreed a slightly tighter chain seemed to shift better).

However, when adjusting the set screws it was immediately apparent that they were wildly different from one side of the bike to the other. The manual states when adjusting, make sure you perform the same turn on each side, but it mentions nothing about how to align the wheel when they are not set at the same distance to begin with.

I blame the dealer that I purchased the bike from. I have found that they claimed they changed the oil and filter (they didn't), changed the brake and clutch fluids (they didn't). The only thing they did do was goop grease on the chain that flung everywhere. And now apparently it seems they only adjusted one side.

I got out my Mitutoyo Calipers and measured the following before making any adjustments.

Chain side, before adjustment: 0.467 inches
Brake side, before adjustment: 0.596 inches

After adjusting the tension on the chain side to as close to 1 inch as possible, I then adjusted both sides to the following before torquing the axle nuts to 83 ft lbs.

Chain side, adjusted: 0.684 inches
Brake side, adjusted: 0.683 inches



Did I do this right or should I have left them with the disparity in the gaps because that is not how the wheel is aligned?

Not to derail the slack conversation, but I feel this applies somewhat...

I just performed my first chain clean and lube today and have now adjusted the chain to as close to 1 inch of free play as I could get (owing to the few people here who agreed a slightly tighter chain seemed to shift better).

However, when adjusting the set screws it was immediately apparent that they were wildly different from one side of the bike to the other. The manual states when adjusting, make sure you perform the same turn on each side, but it mentions nothing about how to align the wheel when they are not set at the same distance to begin with.

I blame the dealer that I purchased the bike from. I have found that they claimed they changed the oil and filter (they didn't), changed the brake and clutch fluids (they didn't). The only thing they did do was goop grease on the chain that flung everywhere. And now apparently it seems they only adjusted one side.

I got out my Mitutoyo Calipers and measured the following before making any adjustments.

Chain side, before adjustment: 0.467 inches
Brake side, before adjustment: 0.596 inches

After adjusting the tension on the chain side to as close to 1 inch as possible, I then adjusted both sides to the following before torquing the axle nuts to 83 ft lbs.

Chain side, adjusted: 0.684 inches
Brake side, adjusted: 0.683 inches



Did I do this right or should I have left them with the disparity in the gaps because that is not how the wheel is aligned?
Hi Whoops,
Rightly or wrongly that’s exactly what I do. I am taking a leap of faith that Honda puts their frames/swingarm together to fine tolerances in the first place so I just make sure the adjusters both sides are as near to identical as I can. Then I choose not to worry about it anymore. I have tried the string method many times over the years to line up front & rear wheels on different bikes with some success but (especially on a spoked wheel) I find the wheel rims and tyres can easily run out a few mm so how do you know where you are?

Some bikes have rear wheel offset too and that messes with your head. Others may be able to confirm but I’ve had a few Harleys that I swear didn’t line up at all, like 10mm out! Anyway, the CB feels really well balanced, tracks straight so I’m confident it’s pretty accurate at the end of the day. When I spin the rear wheel over (on the stand obviously) it’s as free as anything which I take to mean it’s all tracking true with no dragging of the brakes at all.

Funny you should say that about the brakes. I did hear a slight drag after setting the ends to have the same clearances. Now I wonder if I just created a problem that didn't exist before.

Funny you should say that about the brakes. I did hear a slight drag after setting the ends to have the same clearances. Now I wonder if I just created a problem that didn't exist before.
Hiya again,
TBH I would say the opposite, I converted your measurements into mm so that I can visualize it better and I agree the axle was out of whack, so all you’ve done (IMO) is set it straight but now of course your rear pads have worn in that way, that’s why you hear them drag. Depending upon your OCD you could live with it until they bed in again or swap them out for a new set. I still think you did the right thing though. Just out of interest when I adjusted my EX chain for the first time both adjusters were virtually identical (i.e. factory set I can only presume) and required only a tiny adjustment (because I have no time pressure) to get them spot on. Have you had a ride out since you adjusted it? be interesting to hear if you noticed any difference.

[max]

Not anywhere near as clear a picture as whoops's but here is what i measured after verifying the rear wheel was in line;

Inside measurement on right adjuster;


Inside measurement on left adjuster;


Measured the inside to flat space and also the flat to outside of bracket measurement, both showed the same discrepancy of the left arm flat being 1 mm shorter than the right arm flat, the markings on the brackets seemed to be the same on both and have 5 mm intervals.


Here are the pictures of left and right combined which show the 1 mm difference;



My swingarm was made in 2010 so the newer ones may be a lot better but it pays to check this, the difference is a bit more than 1 rotation of the adjuster bolt.

And agree with jfro, provided your swingarm is the same length on both sides, i.e. better than mine.

[Jfro5687_imp]

Not anywhere near as clear a picture as whoops's but here is what i measured after verifying the rear wheel was in line;

Inside measurement on right adjuster;


Inside measurement on left adjuster;


Measured the inside to flat space and also the flat to outside of bracket measurement, both showed the same discrepancy of the left arm flat being 1 mm shorter than the right arm flat, the markings on the brackets seemed to be the same on both and have 5 mm intervals.


Here are the pictures of left and right combined which show the 1 mm difference;



My swingarm was made in 2010 so the newer ones may be a lot better but it pays to check this, the difference is a bit more than 1 rotation of the adjuster bolt.

And agree with jfro, provided your swingarm is the same length on both sides, i.e. better than mine.

Hi Max,
Totally get that. You have got to do what makes you feel right. Over the years I have fallen down the ‘worm hole’ too many times trying to resolve this topic which is why I now choose to set as I do, then think no more about it.

[Whoops]

you all are overlooking one thing... there is a green and red zones marked on your adjusters. if you have proper length chain and it's not old and stretched from excessive miles, if the adjusters are in the green zone, you're fine.

this from cb750, but shows my point

Not to derail the slack conversation, but I feel this applies somewhat...

I just performed my first chain clean and lube today and have now adjusted the chain to as close to 1 inch of free play as I could get (owing to the few people here who agreed a slightly tighter chain seemed to shift better).

However, when adjusting the set screws it was immediately apparent that they were wildly different from one side of the bike to the other. The manual states when adjusting, make sure you perform the same turn on each side, but it mentions nothing about how to align the wheel when they are not set at the same distance to begin with.

I blame the dealer that I purchased the bike from. I have found that they claimed they changed the oil and filter (they didn't), changed the brake and clutch fluids (they didn't). The only thing they did do was goop grease on the chain that flung everywhere. And now apparently it seems they only adjusted one side.

I got out my Mitutoyo Calipers and measured the following before making any adjustments.

Chain side, before adjustment: 0.467 inches
Brake side, before adjustment: 0.596 inches

After adjusting the tension on the chain side to as close to 1 inch as possible, I then adjusted both sides to the following before torquing the axle nuts to 83 ft lbs.

Chain side, adjusted: 0.684 inches
Brake side, adjusted: 0.683 inches



Did I do this right or should I have left them with the disparity in the gaps because that is not how the wheel is aligned?

Not to derail the slack conversation, but I feel this applies somewhat...

I just performed my first chain clean and lube today and have now adjusted the chain to as close to 1 inch of free play as I could get (owing to the few people here who agreed a slightly tighter chain seemed to shift better).

However, when adjusting the set screws it was immediately apparent that they were wildly different from one side of the bike to the other. The manual states when adjusting, make sure you perform the same turn on each side, but it mentions nothing about how to align the wheel when they are not set at the same distance to begin with.

I blame the dealer that I purchased the bike from. I have found that they claimed they changed the oil and filter (they didn't), changed the brake and clutch fluids (they didn't). The only thing they did do was goop grease on the chain that flung everywhere. And now apparently it seems they only adjusted one side.

I got out my Mitutoyo Calipers and measured the following before making any adjustments.

Chain side, before adjustment: 0.467 inches
Brake side, before adjustment: 0.596 inches

After adjusting the tension on the chain side to as close to 1 inch as possible, I then adjusted both sides to the following before torquing the axle nuts to 83 ft lbs.

Chain side, adjusted: 0.684 inches
Brake side, adjusted: 0.683 inches



Did I do this right or should I have left them with the disparity in the gaps because that is not how the wheel is aligned?
Hi Whoops,
Rightly or wrongly that’s exactly what I do. I am taking a leap of faith that Honda puts their frames/swingarm together to fine tolerances in the first place so I just make sure the adjusters both sides are as near to identical as I can. Then I choose not to worry about it anymore. I have tried the string method many times over the years to line up front & rear wheels on different bikes with some success but (especially on a spoked wheel) I find the wheel rims and tyres can easily run out a few mm so how do you know where you are?

Some bikes have rear wheel offset too and that messes with your head. Others may be able to confirm but I’ve had a few Harleys that I swear didn’t line up at all, like 10mm out! Anyway, the CB feels really well balanced, tracks straight so I’m confident it’s pretty accurate at the end of the day. When I spin the rear wheel over (on the stand obviously) it’s as free as anything which I take to mean it’s all tracking true with no dragging of the brakes at all.

Funny you should say that about the brakes. I did hear a slight drag after setting the ends to have the same clearances. Now I wonder if I just created a problem that didn't exist before.

Funny you should say that about the brakes. I did hear a slight drag after setting the ends to have the same clearances. Now I wonder if I just created a problem that didn't exist before.
Hiya again,
TBH I would say the opposite, I converted your measurements into mm so that I can visualize it better and I agree the axle was out of whack, so all you’ve done (IMO) is set it straight but now of course your rear pads have worn in that way, that’s why you hear them drag. Depending upon your OCD you could live with it until they bed in again or swap them out for a new set. I still think you did the right thing though. Just out of interest when I adjusted my EX chain for the first time both adjusters were virtually identical (i.e. factory set I can only presume) and required only a tiny adjustment (because I have no time pressure) to get them spot on. Have you had a ride out since you adjusted it? be interesting to hear if you noticed any difference.

I did. The pad drag was definitely very slight to begin with and by the end of the ride, I couldn't really hear it anymore if I recall. Though to be honest, I was trying to hear whatever had just punctured my rear tire. Might be a bit before I can take it back out and listen specifically to see if the pads have worn down enough to correct the dragging. What you said seems likely to me and as such I'm not going to worry about replacing the pads just yet.

you all are overlooking one thing... there is a green and red zones marked on your adjusters. if you have proper length chain and it's not old and stretched from excessive miles, if the adjusters are in the green zone, you're fine.

this from cb750, but shows my point

Not to derail the slack conversation, but I feel this applies somewhat...

I just performed my first chain clean and lube today and have now adjusted the chain to as close to 1 inch of free play as I could get (owing to the few people here who agreed a slightly tighter chain seemed to shift better).

However, when adjusting the set screws it was immediately apparent that they were wildly different from one side of the bike to the other. The manual states when adjusting, make sure you perform the same turn on each side, but it mentions nothing about how to align the wheel when they are not set at the same distance to begin with.

I blame the dealer that I purchased the bike from. I have found that they claimed they changed the oil and filter (they didn't), changed the brake and clutch fluids (they didn't). The only thing they did do was goop grease on the chain that flung everywhere. And now apparently it seems they only adjusted one side.

I got out my Mitutoyo Calipers and measured the following before making any adjustments.

Chain side, before adjustment: 0.467 inches
Brake side, before adjustment: 0.596 inches

After adjusting the tension on the chain side to as close to 1 inch as possible, I then adjusted both sides to the following before torquing the axle nuts to 83 ft lbs.

Chain side, adjusted: 0.684 inches
Brake side, adjusted: 0.683 inches



Did I do this right or should I have left them with the disparity in the gaps because that is not how the wheel is aligned?

Woops you seem to be the type to test this out;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=by7L3M8ai-0

I might add that i could not do this measurement on the centerstand, it interfered with the string and also the position of the front wheel is not super critical because of the way the discs line up as you may find out.

Seem to remember that the markings on my bike were not completely in agreement with the alignment as shown here, since we're now on this subject.
It may pay to verify that yours are correct and this method will be a reliable way to check alignment in your case.

With great regard to all methods above none of them actually verify the actual wheel is in line with the front wheel, they all should do that if all other parts are accurate, the method with the string does measure the actual wheel alignment but we are realy getting into the semantic stage here.

Lord Popgun makes a good point, i adjust mine with some tension on the axle nut, something like half the torque so it stays in place and;
In addition to the adjustment i tighten the axle nut and then tighten up both adjustment bolts ccw. to prevent the axle bolt traveling forward under load since these bolts don't have a locking nut to prevent them changing position, something i might change in the future.

Wow. I just inherited a pair of calipers from dearly departed Dad and decided to see how close I could get with them. The method shown in the video looks simple but I bet after about 30 yards of string my wheels will be perpendicular.

[the Ferret]

Not anywhere near as clear a picture as whoops's but here is what i measured after verifying the rear wheel was in line;

Inside measurement on right adjuster;


Inside measurement on left adjuster;


Measured the inside to flat space and also the flat to outside of bracket measurement, both showed the same discrepancy of the left arm flat being 1 mm shorter than the right arm flat, the markings on the brackets seemed to be the same on both and have 5 mm intervals.


Here are the pictures of left and right combined which show the 1 mm difference;



My swingarm was made in 2010 so the newer ones may be a lot better but it pays to check this, the difference is a bit more than 1 rotation of the adjuster bolt.

And agree with jfro, provided your swingarm is the same length on both sides, i.e. better than mine.

Max..really interesting, as is the decal on your chain adjuster. Apparently that was designed for domestic Japanese market, but I am really surprised there is that much difference in the sides of your swingarm. My Mark's are nearly right on the money. Probably not .003 close, but close enough.