Riding in the Rain: A Pragmatic Response

[Cormanus]

That looks like a good storm to sit in an underpass for.

[pdedse]

I love the "guy flying off his motorcycle caution sign". And the RE INT650 is a wonderful bike with a very high fun factor.

[Nachodaddy]

You always must consider how the other drivers will handle the slick roads, especially in a place, like Phoenix, AZ, USA, where they do not often drive on slick roads. There is nothing as exciting as having a huge vehicle slide across the road sideways right in your path.

[Gone in 60]

Nice ride on the Interceptor! I rented one too, which is how I got hooked and ended up buying one. You won't regret it. I miss mine though... she's been parked and covered in a friend's garage since I started the delivery job and have the BMWs cycling through my garage. Hopefully we'll get more business in my area soon, and I can rent a shop for the work bikes.

In my area, the cars typically lose control in the rain on the wraparound freeway on ramps. Sometimes you'll see a tow truck parked in the center of an on ramp in the rain, just waiting for his next customer.

[FlyerRon]

Recently, I rode my motorcycle downtown to pick up some fruits and vegetables. The skies were gray, and rain was in the forecast. But I rode anyway. It has been too long since I navigated a wet road. I needed the practice.

After I parked, a slight, gentle drizzle began. 

When light rain starts to fall, it mixes with oil, grease, and dust on the road, creating a slippery, greasy film that makes driving much more difficult and dangerous. This light moisture acts as a lubricant, making the roads more slippery and significantly reducing traction. Unlike in heavy rain, this film remains constant. Tires on cars, motorcycles, trucks, and bicycles tend to spread it across the road until it evaporates or is washed away by heavy rain.

For those who might be returning to cycling after a break or for new owners of a CB1100, I assert this situation is arguably the most dangerous road condition we face while riding our 550+ LB motorcycle. I encourage you to

Recognize the "Slick" Period: Oils on the road mix with water, making the first 30 minutes the most dangerous.
Smooth Controls: Operate the throttle, brakes, and clutch with gentle, gradual inputs to avoid breaking traction.
Reduced Speed & Increased Distance: Slow down 5-10 mph and increase following distance, as braking distance doubles on wet pavement.
Keep Your Motorcycle Upright: Reduce lean angle in corners, as slick roads significantly decrease available traction.
Adjust Lane Position: Ride in the tire tracks of the car in front of you, as they often clear the water and oil.
Avoid Potential Hazards: Avoid painted lines, manhole covers, and metal expansion joints, which become extremely slippery.

I took a few pictures in hopes that my words could become a little more vivid:









I am pleased to report that I remained upright and in control of my motorcycle. When I returned home, I addressed the oil, film, and dirt that had accumulated.







I am a staunch supporter of ceramic coating, which I applied to my wheels, chromes, calibers, tank, and all other surfaces when I purchased my motorcycle.

Key Benefits of Ceramic Coating for Motorcycles:
Superior Protection: Shields paint and metal from UV damage, fading, oxidation, and corrosion.
Hydrophobic Properties: Extremely water-repellent, reducing water spots and allowing dirt, mud, and rain to wash off easily.
Enhanced Appearance: Provides a high-gloss, deep-shine finish that makes colors more vibrant.
Scratch Resistance: Forms a hard layer (up to 9H) that helps prevent light scratches and swirl marks from washing or minor debris.
Heat Resistance: Protects engine components and exhaust pipes from heat-related discoloration and buildup.
Versatility: Safe for use on glossy/matte paint, chrome, plastic, and carbon fiber.

It took less than 15 minutes to return the motorcycle to a proper state:







If that road gunk is allowed to dry or harden, it can be quite difficult to remove. It can also corrode parts and damage finishes. If time allows, it is always best to remove it immediately following the ride. To help make that easy, I maintain a Chemical Guys' Shrine in my garage with easy access to anything I might need.

Be safe and careful. David

David, tell me about the ceramic coating that you use on everything.  Brand name, etc.?
Thanks in advance ...
Ron

[rdprdp01]

Great to hear from you. For my motorcycle, I used the Chemical Guys' Carbon Force. I liked it because it is a professional-grade, thick coating. I did the work myself because I struggled to find a detailer willing to go the extra mile on intricate services like wheels, spokes, cable ends, etc. Although cars are obviously much bigger, they may be easier to coat because the surfaces to be coated are flat rather than round, as on our motorcycles.

See a credible review for details about Carbon Force and other options: Car and Driver Ceramic Coating Review

Because I am not a detailer by trade and do not have customers screaming at me about when the motorcycle can be picked up, I took my time and deviated a little from standard applications. I actually applied four "thin" coats to build up to a thick, protective coating. The thin coating approach also helped me ensure that everything was as smooth and cool as the other side of the pillow. Here are the notes I took from my maintenance journal:

Applying Carbon Force Ceramic Coating requires flawless preparation. The process involves washing, decontaminating, and polishing the paint. Work in a cool, shaded environment. Apply the coating to a small section in a cross-hatch pattern, allow it to flash for 60 seconds, and buff off the residue.

Step 1: Prep the Vehicle
Proper preparation is the most critical part of a ceramic coating, as it permanently locks in whatever is on your paint.
1. Wash: Give the vehicle a thorough wash using a wax-free, gloss-free soap (such as Clean Slate) to strip away old waxes or sealants.
2. Decontaminate: Use a clay bar and lubricant to safely lift embedded dirt, rail dust, and other impurities from the paint.
3. Polish (Paint Correction): Remove any swirl marks, scratches, or oxidation using a machine polisher and fine polish so the paint is perfectly clear.
4. Wipe Down: Remove all polishing oils and residue using a surface cleanser like Wipe Out. This ensures the coating bonds directly to the clear coat.

Step 2: Apply the Coating
1. Prep the Applicator: Drape the micro-suede applicator over the foam block. Place the bottle against the applicator and tilt to dispense a couple of thin lines of Carbon Force onto the suede.
2. Apply in Sections: Work on a small area or a single panel at a time.
3. Cross-Hatch Pattern: Gently spread the coating onto the paint using linear (up-and-down and side-to-side) motions to create a cross-hatch pattern. Do not use circular motions. Ensure you have complete, even coverage without heavy pressure.
4. Let it Flash: Allow the coating to "flash" or set for about 60 seconds. You will see a faint rainbow-like or oily film appear on the surface.

Step 3: Buff and Cure
1. Buff Off: Fold a clean, premium, short-pile microfiber towel (like the Workhorse Towel) into quarters. Gently wipe the surface side to side to remove any excess residue.
2. Inspect: Switch to a fresh microfiber towel to do a final wipe and catch any high spots (streaks or leftover material).
3. Cure Time: Let the vehicle cure for at least 12 hours in a controlled, dry, indoor environment away from moisture and dust. Avoid washing the car or exposing it to rain for at least a few days to let the coating fully harden.

With all the surfaces treated (vinyl, chrome, paint, and metal), I can detail my motorcycle in no more than 20 minutes using the other products Chemical Guys sells. Usually, it takes less than 5 minutes. I do not use soap and water. Rather, I use a microfiber cloth and a spray cleaner designed for ceramic-coated surfaces. Although I have not seen it referenced in the literature, I suspect ceramic coating also extends the life of parts exposed to the elements.

I had my cars professionally detailed by great detailers. I believe the Ceramic Pro Product Line is the gold standard and capable of the 10-year mark with reasonable maintenance. Their network of detailers is a qualified list. They go the extra mile to make sure the prep and application are right. When I last had a car coated, the 9H product was the premium coating. Ceramic Pro ION appears to have taken it to the next level. Once a year, I have the cars professionally detailed. At that time, I intend to ask them to apply one coat of Ceramic Pro ION to my existing finish.