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+--- Thread: Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses (/showthread.php?tid=8776)
Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - grover_imp - 07-26-2014
Hey guys,
I just swapped my rear turn signals for the Lockhart Philips ones. I tested everything before soldering, but once I got everything back together none of the signals are working and the fuse is apparently blown (along with the starter fuse).
I'm assuming I screwed up and reversed my wires somewhere. Any other thoughts/suggestions?
Thanks!
grover
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Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - Ridem32_imp - 07-26-2014
Not sure what bulb the Lockhart uses for the front blinker but honda does not use the 1157 up front for running lights and blinkers they use the single 1156 bulb which goes to a control box which makes them burn as running lights! If your new Lockhart has 3 wires for the front not the right type bulb.
Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - grover_imp - 07-26-2014
I bought a set of single filament (2 wire, rears) and a set of dual filament (3 wire, front), but only installed the rears
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RE: Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - INTP_imp - 07-26-2014
I just did the same swap on my bike. I blew a couple fuses too, but mine happened when a bare wire touched ground.
Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - grover_imp - 07-27-2014
Damn!! I'm messing with this again today. I found that 1 side in particular was blowing the turn signal fuse, so I snipped that splice, twisted the same pair of wires together and re-tried- all good. So I re solder the splice, test both connections- all good. So then I assemble everything, route the wires through the harness, test and BLOWN FUSE!!
I'm confused and frustrated at this point. Is it possible that in routing the wires, I broke one of the connections? Would that causes blown fuses?
Any recommendations wiring experts?
grover
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RE: Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - Razor - 07-27-2014
If your connections are tight and insulated; I'd look to make sure you have the wiring connected as follows.
Left, Orange wire = 12v
Green = ground
Right, Light Blue wire = 12v
Green = ground
I'm guessing one side is correct, while the other is backwards. Each time the turn signal is enabled, the 12v feed goes to ground, causing the short.
Good luck, let us what you find.
Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - Ridem32_imp - 07-27-2014
How many wires are on your new front turn signals? 2 or 3. Is the front new blinkers 1157 bulbs or 1156 bulbs?
What blows a fuse is when you have a voltage wire going to a ground. If you have a voltage wire touching another voltage wire it's a short! But a short should not blow a fuse.
RE: Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - Randy B - 07-27-2014
A short most definitely would blow a fuse.
Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - Ridem32_imp - 07-27-2014
If it's shorted to a ground yes would blow a fuse if it's shorted to another voltage wire no it would not blow a fuse it would cause whatever it was shorted too to come on maybe dim if it's another light etc
A ground is when a voltage wire touchs ground blows fuse. A short is when 2 voltage wires touch. It just depends on how you say it.
The cb1100 is not wired like the old cb750 as far as blinkers! The older honda bikes used a 1157 bulb up front so when the key was on the both front blinkers would burn as running lights using one element of the bulb. When the blinker was turned on the other side of bulb would light up and blink due to a signalstat the new cb1100 does not use 1157 bulbs ( double element bulbs) it uses a 1156 ( single element ) same as the rear blinker. The blinker wires run thru a control unit which turns on the single bulb for running lights. Then when blinker is turned on the controller makes it blink. I don't know if his bike when turned on if his running lights are coming on or if it's blowing a fuse with just the key on blinkers off!
Turn Signal Swap - Blown Fuses - grover_imp - 07-27-2014
Razor,
Thanks for your help. I have the rears wired as you're showing above, but seeing as though I've been able to successfully test their function prior to mounting, I'm thinking I've caused a short in the mounting process.
The OEM signals have a black rubber spacer between the light body and the grab rail, whereas the LP's have no insulation and bolt directly the the grab rail and frame with only a SS washer. Could it cause a short by being grounded via the (green/black) ground wire in addition to grounding to the frame? With this in mind I tried snipping the ground wires while keeping the lights grounded to the body, this also resulted in a short/blown fuse. :/
Thank you for your time!!
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