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Clutch/Brake fluid - Printable Version

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+--- Thread: Clutch/Brake fluid (/showthread.php?tid=5015)

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Clutch/Brake fluid - mattmcuomo@yahoo.com - 02-17-2019

My clutch felt like it wasn’t disengaging all the way so I replaced the fluid with Dot4 Honda fluid. It was better for awhile but it’s happening again. My question is, what fluid have you all found to be the best ?


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RE: Clutch/Brake fluid - GoldOxide_imp - 02-17-2019

My understanding is any DOT4 certified, clean-from-an-unopened-bottle is most recommended as it contains the least contaminants and air.

Air bubbles in the hydraulic circuit?


Clutch/Brake fluid - mattmcuomo@yahoo.com - 02-17-2019

(02-17-2019, 04:21 AM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote: My understanding is any DOT4 certified, clean-from-an-unopened-bottle is most recommended as it contains the least contaminants and air.

Air bubbles in the hydraulic circuit?


Yeah, I used Honda dot4. I’m sure it’s been bled properly. I’ll check for bubbles again but i just thought maybe there is a better fluid to use.


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RE: Clutch/Brake fluid - peterbaron - 02-17-2019

+1 ^^^DOT4..is your problem located somewhere else, sticky pump/plunger or lever, requires bleeding, as most simple and common ???


Clutch/Brake fluid - mattmcuomo@yahoo.com - 02-17-2019

(02-17-2019, 04:25 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: +1 ^^^DOT4..is your problem located somewhere else, sticky pump/plunger or lever, requires bleeding, as most simple and common ???


I’ve got 53,000 miles on the bike, I suppose it could be time to rebuild the master cylinder.


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RE: Clutch/Brake fluid - LongRanger_imp - 02-18-2019

Changing your engine oil may help too.


RE: Clutch/Brake fluid - Lord Popgun - 02-18-2019

Normally when I flush the brakes or clutch I first suck out all the fluid in the reservoir making sure I get any gunk out of the very bottom. Then fill it back up and start the bleeding process.


RE: Clutch/Brake fluid - Houtman_imp - 02-18-2019

(02-18-2019, 02:26 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: Normally when I flush the brakes or clutch I first suck out all the fluid in the reservoir making sure I get any gunk out of the very bottom. Then fill it back up and start the bleeding process.

I do the same , with an air compressor type bleeder it is very easy.
Also make certain that you use an all clear new brake fluid , easier to see when the old fluid is completely gone.


RE: Clutch/Brake fluid - max - 02-18-2019

MMC if you remove the oil filler cap you can see the clutch plates, with a torch it is easier to see them move.
if there is a leak you can check by watching the plates, pulling the clutch handle in and keep it pulled in for some time, if the plates stay apart for a minute or so there are no leaks but if they slowly close up you may have to look behind the left cover where the clutch slave cylinder is mounted and check for leakage, has the clutch fluid level dropped?

The clutch slave cylinder is different from the brake in that it has a spring behind the piston and travels ( moves ) more than a brake piston, it also has a bleed nipple on the cylinder and the seal can benefit from some grease to assist in lubricating the piston seal and prevent oxidation in case some liquid gets past the seal.

My fluid was a bit darker than the brake fluid and i undid the three bolts of the cylinder and pushed the piston back to expel as much of the old fluid in the system before removing/refilling the reservoir with fresh fluid and repeating the process twice to dilute the old fluid in the lines taking care not to spill any on any painted surfaces.

Also the engine oil can bind the plates causing more drag when dis-engaged.

Just some points to consider.


Clutch/Brake fluid - mattmcuomo@yahoo.com - 02-18-2019

I rebuilt the master cylinder, it’s better but not cured. Moving on to check the slave cylinder out. Thanks for the ideas!!


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