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+--- Thread: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil (/showthread.php?tid=5691)
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - flynrider - 03-16-2015
(03-16-2015, 07:36 AM)JustPassinThru_imp Wrote: I had a long talk with my dealer, who by trade is a mechanic, with oil choices.
Since the last chain-drive Japanese machine I owned, I was converted to Mobil 1. No, it doesn't work miracles. It doesn't cure halitosis and the heartbreak of psoriasis. No, it's not to be added to the crankcase, the the gas tank, the fork tubes and the chain. It's just an improvement on nature, by controlling the molecular quality of the lubricant - by molecule; and after a lower-end failure on an engine in a GM car, I avoid both GM cars and conventional oils.
BUT.
I'd forgotten about the wet clutch pack. BMWs, of course, have a single-plate, dry automotive-style clutch. They have a gearbox with its own lubrication. Not so a Honda, with a wet clutch and transmission all lubed by crankcase oil.
DO NOT use automotive synthetics, he warned. He says there's a synthetic for cycles with wet clutches, but he doesn't know enough to recommend it.
And I'll accept that. I don't like going back to dino-oil; but - as with so many complex items and their needs - there is no "better" lubricant. There is only the lubricant with qualities the machine was engineered for; and lubricants that are out of specification for its needs.
Just look for the JASO-MA/MA2 spec on synthetics. That'll cover you on the wet clutch issue. There are a lot of choices out there.
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - kDiqq_imp - 03-16-2015
(03-16-2015, 10:28 AM)Flynrider_imp Wrote:(03-16-2015, 07:36 AM)JustPassinThru_imp Wrote: I had a long talk with my dealer, who by trade is a mechanic, with oil choices.
Since the last chain-drive Japanese machine I owned, I was converted to Mobil 1. No, it doesn't work miracles. It doesn't cure halitosis and the heartbreak of psoriasis. No, it's not to be added to the crankcase, the the gas tank, the fork tubes and the chain. It's just an improvement on nature, by controlling the molecular quality of the lubricant - by molecule; and after a lower-end failure on an engine in a GM car, I avoid both GM cars and conventional oils.
BUT.
I'd forgotten about the wet clutch pack. BMWs, of course, have a single-plate, dry automotive-style clutch. They have a gearbox with its own lubrication. Not so a Honda, with a wet clutch and transmission all lubed by crankcase oil.
DO NOT use automotive synthetics, he warned. He says there's a synthetic for cycles with wet clutches, but he doesn't know enough to recommend it.
And I'll accept that. I don't like going back to dino-oil; but - as with so many complex items and their needs - there is no "better" lubricant. There is only the lubricant with qualities the machine was engineered for; and lubricants that are out of specification for its needs.
Just look for the JASO-MA/MA2 spec on synthetics. That'll cover you on the wet clutch issue. There are a lot of choices out there.
Just look for the JASO-MA/MA2 spec on synthetics. That'll cover you on the wet clutch issue. There are a lot of choices out there. ^This. Stay regular on your intervals and you'll be fine. If you want the best for your intervals, there is loads of hard data on the net on which oils are best. Some oils are better than others. Though suggesting one oil is best is like suggesting your religion is wrong, your mother raised you poorly, and you need a new haircut all at once. Using any will known 'good' oil will yield desirable results in the long run regardless of brand.
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - jp4141432_imp - 11-27-2015
Like-for-2014 CB1100 AMSOIL 10W30 MCT
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - Motogeezer1949_imp - 11-29-2015
Still with the 10w40 Amsoil here in FL. and assorted trips around the southeast. 17k miles. No issues.
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - dave - 11-29-2015
I have used the Honda, 10W-30, full synthetic motor oil since my first oil change (9K miles now) and my engine makes that disturbing clicking / tapping noise when first starting it (when cold). I believe this is the exact same sound other members have reported. The noise stops after roughly 60 seconds, so I have ignored it.
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - redbirds_imp - 11-29-2015
It's an air cooled motor, the type make strange noises. Years ago strange engine noises were not heard because exhaust sound was louder thus ignored.
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - jp4141432_imp - 11-30-2015
SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40
Stupid 7 ** KM accelerate missing
Red Line REDLINE 10W30,
ultra-light summer urban pull turn, serious card file
7 ** KM miss
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - kmoney_imp - 11-30-2015
(11-30-2015, 11:31 AM)jp4141432_imp Wrote:Is that tank silver/dark grey, or is it just the lighting?
SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40
Stupid 7 ** KM accelerate missing
Red Line REDLINE 10W30,
ultra-light summer urban pull turn, serious card file
7 ** KM miss
RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - hdvalente_imp - 11-30-2015
(11-30-2015, 11:31 AM)jp4141432_imp Wrote:Did you have issues with those two oil brands?
SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40
Stupid 7 ** KM accelerate missing
Red Line REDLINE 10W30,
ultra-light summer urban pull turn, serious card file
7 ** KM miss
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RE: Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil - jp4141432_imp - 12-01-2015
TO:kmoney
His color gray
TO:hdvalente
Hello urban exercise serious traffic jam card file
REDLINE 10W30
SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40
AMSOIL MCT 10W30 for a smooth shift with light
