RE: a trailer - behind the Honda - Inhouse Bob - 10-11-2020
EarsOnWheels has a hitch rigged up to his bike. Might drop him a PM.
RE: a trailer - behind the Honda - GoldOxide_imp - 10-11-2020
[url=http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=16105&pid=277918#pid277918]
RE: a trailer - behind the Honda - j3gq_imp - 10-11-2020
(10-11-2020, 05:52 AM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote: (10-11-2020, 04:00 AM)j3gq_imp Wrote: (10-11-2020, 01:58 AM)rotor_imp Wrote: (10-11-2020, 12:06 AM)j3gq_imp Wrote: I really don't like saddle bags, not small, not large, and certainly not those big aluminum boxes you find mounted on X-Sahara Enduros.
But I'd like to carry my tent and a few other things every once in a while. Has anybody (in particular in the US or Canada) seen or used a one-axel, one-wheel trailer for the CB1100 ? Please ignore legal and safety issues for a moment. I am thinking of a strong little thing, with one wheel, mounted on the rear or on the carrier rack, which leans into every curve with the bike, good for up to 60 miles/h and carrying a small aluminum box say 30" by 15" by 15", the center bar no longer than 50".
Has a similar trailer been seen ? Any descriptions, snapshots, any good advice ? If not, any related ideas which might complement my (to be detailed) design before it goes to the shop ? In particular what pre-fab parts (wheel, hook) could be used in order to reduce production cost ?
Always safe rides to all !! I find the idea appealing, and was thinking about it even before seeing your post, somewhat along these lines:[ul] [li]Single small diameter BMX/mountain bike axle and wheel.[/li] [li]Mass: total of 70 kilograms, with 40 kilograms max. cargo load.[/li] [li]If the above can be achieved no need for breaks, but some back/fore and up/down springs and shock-absorbers would be required.[/li] [li]No hard boxes, to minimize the mass. What has to be kept dry goes into heavy plastic bags/pouches. Cargo is strapped to two vertical frames on both sides of the wheel.[/li] [li]Aluminum alloy structural members and steel parts, produced, packaged and sold as a kit for customer/rider assembly. User is responsible for any legal compliance while on public roadways.
[/li][/ul]
That is exactly what I had in mind when it comes to 'approval'. Anything else hard to imagine when a reasonable response-time and cost efficiency is required.
Here in Europe the weight requirements for trailers without "papers" are different from country to country - another reason to stay low in empty weight.
(10-11-2020, 02:51 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: Uni-go and Trail-tail trailers, and probably most others, use smaller 10"-13" wheels with scooter tires that are not rated for higher speeds. Remember that they will be spinning a lot faster than a larger wheel at the same speed, and more affected by potholes. Also remember that in the US, some states reduce the speed limit with a trailer, prohibit riding in carpool lanes, and limit which lanes it can be ridden in.
I would stay away from bicycle components, as they just aren't up to the speed and safety needs. And I'd use a cast 17" front wheel with a tubeless tire. I would also recommend giving it suspension, as otherwise it would be like bolting luggage to your swingarm.
In general I agree with everything you say. Nevertheless I would first aim for something much simpler than a large wheel and suspension, and limit use to low(er) speeds, use a small size scooter wheel, and high quality axle and bearings. Instead of real suspension something (?) else, lighter in weight and rugged, tbd ... In the end you may be right, and that's not good enough, but I would try 
That is exactly what I had in mind when it comes to 'approval'. Anything else hard to imagine when a reasonable response-time and cost efficiency is required.
Here in Europe the weight requirements for trailers without "papers" are different from country to country - another reason to stay low in empty weight.
(10-11-2020, 02:51 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: Uni-go and Trail-tail trailers, and probably most others, use smaller 10"-13" wheels with scooter tires that are not rated for higher speeds. Remember that they will be spinning a lot faster than a larger wheel at the same speed, and more affected by potholes. Also remember that in the US, some states reduce the speed limit with a trailer, prohibit riding in carpool lanes, and limit which lanes it can be ridden in.
I would stay away from bicycle components, as they just aren't up to the speed and safety needs. And I'd use a cast 17" front wheel with a tubeless tire. I would also recommend giving it suspension, as otherwise it would be like bolting luggage to your swingarm.
In general I agree with everything you say. Nevertheless I would first aim for something much simpler than a large wheel and suspension, and limit use to low(er) speeds, use a small size scooter wheel, and high quality axle and bearings. Instead of real suspension something (?) else, lighter in weight and rugged, tbd ... In the end you may be right, and that's not good enough, but I would try
What do you think of this on the CB1100?
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=16105&pid=277918#pid277918
Looks like a good match, but it is longer ( is it 70" in total ? ) than what I had in mind. But I can see how to use this design and ... match it with my needs ...
RE: a trailer - behind the Honda - Roper_imp - 10-11-2020
(10-11-2020, 05:15 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: (10-11-2020, 04:00 AM)j3gq_imp Wrote: (10-11-2020, 01:58 AM)rotor_imp Wrote: (10-11-2020, 12:06 AM)j3gq_imp Wrote: I really don't like saddle bags, not small, not large, and certainly not those big aluminum boxes you find mounted on X-Sahara Enduros.
But I'd like to carry my tent and a few other things every once in a while. Has anybody (in particular in the US or Canada) seen or used a one-axel, one-wheel trailer for the CB1100 ? Please ignore legal and safety issues for a moment. I am thinking of a strong little thing, with one wheel, mounted on the rear or on the carrier rack, which leans into every curve with the bike, good for up to 60 miles/h and carrying a small aluminum box say 30" by 15" by 15", the center bar no longer than 50".
Has a similar trailer been seen ? Any descriptions, snapshots, any good advice ? If not, any related ideas which might complement my (to be detailed) design before it goes to the shop ? In particular what pre-fab parts (wheel, hook) could be used in order to reduce production cost ?
Always safe rides to all !! I find the idea appealing, and was thinking about it even before seeing your post, somewhat along these lines:[ul] [li]Single small diameter BMX/mountain bike axle and wheel.[/li] [li]Mass: total of 70 kilograms, with 40 kilograms max. cargo load.[/li] [li]If the above can be achieved no need for breaks, but some back/fore and up/down springs and shock-absorbers would be required.[/li] [li]No hard boxes, to minimize the mass. What has to be kept dry goes into heavy plastic bags/pouches. Cargo is strapped to two vertical frames on both sides of the wheel.[/li] [li]Aluminum alloy structural members and steel parts, produced, packaged and sold as a kit for customer/rider assembly. User is responsible for any legal compliance while on public roadways.
[/li][/ul]
That is exactly what I had in mind when it comes to 'approval'. Anything else hard to imagine when a reasonable response-time and cost efficiency is required.
Here in Europe the weight requirements for trailers without "papers" are different from country to country - another reason to stay low in empty weight.
(10-11-2020, 02:51 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: Uni-go and Trail-tail trailers, and probably most others, use smaller 10"-13" wheels with scooter tires that are not rated for higher speeds. Remember that they will be spinning a lot faster than a larger wheel at the same speed, and more affected by potholes. Also remember that in the US, some states reduce the speed limit with a trailer, prohibit riding in carpool lanes, and limit which lanes it can be ridden in.
I would stay away from bicycle components, as they just aren't up to the speed and safety needs. And I'd use a cast 17" front wheel with a tubeless tire. I would also recommend giving it suspension, as otherwise it would be like bolting luggage to your swingarm.
In general I agree with everything you say. Nevertheless I would first aim for something much simpler than a large wheel and suspension, and limit use to low(er) speeds, use a small size scooter wheel, and high quality axle and bearings. Instead of real suspension something (?) else, lighter in weight and rugged, tbd ... In the end you may be right, and that's not good enough, but I would try 
An unsuspended/undampened trailer will bounce and get airborne fairly easily from something as unsuspecting as dips in the road. Anyone who has ever witnessed an empty Tow-Dolly going down the road will know what I mean - and that's something that weighs 400-500 pounds.
+1. Years ago, when I rode mountain bikes a lot, I had a Yak trailer. It bounced like crazy on trails, and that was at 15mph max. Downhill. I can't imagine motoring along at 60mph and hitting a bump with a light unsuspended trailer. That would probably be enough to bend metal, or at least wreck wheel bearings after a few trips.
RE: a trailer - behind the Honda - j3gq_imp - 10-11-2020
What I have in mind may sound weird, but I thought one could "over-suspend" a very light / small one-wheeler. Into the initial bounce (being kicked "up" by some hump) it would stay above the ground (say 1-2 inches) and slowly come down to the level position within ... say ... 2 secs. When crossing a hole in the asphalt, same thing, it stays up long enough to cross most dips. Such damping would obviously not work in a car or on your front wheel, but here it might ??? Of course this means that the trailer cannot freely pivot around the transverse axis, and that the mounting bracket on the bike must be able to handle the resulting torque.
Don't scream 'nonsense' ... I am thinking loud.
RE: a trailer - behind the Honda - pekingduck - 10-11-2020
The Sherp-X trailer looks pretty well thought out. It is well less than 70" from tip to tip, more like 65". It works because both ends of the trailer are suspended, so it does need for the rear-axle forward mount to pivot. It looks like a good design to base yours on.
The Sherp-X uses a 14" tire, same as the front of Honda's PCX150 scooter. I would much rather see that wheel because it is tubeless. Since most tire punctures are on the rear because of debris/nails kicked up by the front tire, that trailer tire has to fend off the debris from both tires. Get a flat back there and it may not be noticed until the tire and tube are well-shredded.
(10-11-2020, 06:51 AM)j3gq_imp Wrote: What I have in mind may sound weird, but I thought one could "over-suspend" a very light / small one-wheeler. Into the initial bounce (being kicked "up" by some hump) it would stay above the ground (say 1-2 inches) and slowly come down to the level position within ... say ... 2 secs. When crossing a hole in the asphalt, same thing, it stays up long enough to cross most dips. Such damping would obviously not work in a car or on your front wheel, but here it might ??? Of course this means that the trailer cannot freely pivot around the transverse axis, and that the mounting bracket on the bike must be able to handle the resulting torque.
Don't scream 'nonsense' ... I am thinking loud.
If the vertical motion pivot (for up-down motion) were mounted on the frame rather than the rear axle, you would have, effectively, another swingarm - one that pivots from above the rear tire. And you are effectively using a shock with little or no compression dampening, a lot of rebound dampening, and no spring. You'd still need a lateral pivot though for side-to side turning. That's a good Physics experiment......
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