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+--- Thread: Electrical problem maybe? (/showthread.php?tid=4812)
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - Lord Popgun - 05-21-2020
Max is a smart man Cormanus. What he says here is the thing to check. I need more coffee.
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - max - 05-21-2020
Good morning m'lord, coffee works for me too.
Cormanus as a second clue; did you use the sidestand in between when the lights came on or was it left in the same position?
Could be it never happens again, just depends.
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - Cormanus - 05-21-2020
Max, after the lights came on I stopped and put the stand down. Then I put it up and kept going and the fault happened several times again. Then I stopped and put it down and put the bike on the centre stand and stopped and started it faffing around with the kill switch. After that I rode home and the fault recurred yet again.
PS I like coffee too, although I prefer tea first thing in the morning. At this time of day, neither is my beverage of choice. That, I suspect, is one reason Lord Popgun only hands over the keys of the cellar when he wants something.
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - Lord Popgun - 05-21-2020
Ya know, I’ve been wondering where those keys got off to
Max mentioned water in the kill switch. Haven’t seen any gripes about that on the CB but that is a possibility. The ST1300 is known for water in the switchgear problems. I’ve had it happen on the windshield raise lower switch. Worked properly after it dried out.
The fix on the ST is to open the switch gear, clean it and lube it to prevent the water intrusion. I’ve never done it to mine
That would have been a good winter project.
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - SportsterDoc - 05-21-2020
+1 for side stand switch issues...either switch or switch connections or weak side stand spring bouncing.
If not, then loose connection in ignition circuits.
600 miles on Can Am Ryker first week.
Electrical problem maybe? - Cormanus - 05-22-2020
Battery was reading 12.75 or so and 14.3 running. Then a tad over 13, so I assume the battery and charging system are OK. The positive terminal screw was a little loose, so I’ve tightened it.
I started the bike with the meter connected and it read a 10.03.
Have to take it for a ride now.
Enjoying the Ryker, Doc?
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - max - 05-22-2020
13 volts or more means the bike's charging system is keeping up with the electrical load ( all the bits ) on the bike.
So that sounds normal and as expected but worth checking.
If you want to eliminate the sidestand switch temporarily whilst riding; connect one of the terminals ( the one connected to the sidestand switch ) to the chassis of the bike, use a piece of wire and make sure the chassis ground is a reliable contact on the chassis.
This is just a convenient point to use in eliminating the cause of the stalling.
This will bypass ( jumper ) the sidestand switch and the wiring to it so if the problem still exists it is not the sidestand switch and we can eliminate it.
If the clutch switch is not connected it means the bike can be started as normal except not in gear, the start circuit uses the neutral switch to energize the start relay inside the fusebox as per normal, the ground side of the starting circuit uses either the neutral switch or the clutch switch in order to start the engine.
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - Cormanus - 05-22-2020
max, how do I disconnect the wire from the side stand switch? Does it just pull out?
I've got my fingers crossed it was the loose terminal, although part of me knows that will be too easy.
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - max - 05-22-2020
Better to post pics this way;
Voltmeter red probe slips into the connector with the white stripe, black probe sits on the top of and makes contact with the fork leg.
with the ignition switch on the voltmeter should read close to 5 volts dc.;
When the sidestand is up it should read 0 volts;
here is a closeup of the black/white connector;
The red probe fits loosely between the brass connector and the plastic cover of the terminal, just be sure to put the terminal on correctly, it should not be easy to slide off the switch terminal.
Theory;
This is a "dry" contact, meaning it carries very little current and is an input to the e.c.u.
As opposed to a "wet" contact that carries the current the switch is rated for like mains light switches.
"Wet contacts tend to clean themselves every time they are operated by melting and cleaning a bit of material to make the contact.
"dry contacts are not self cleaning and are more susceptible to contact failure if not very well designed for the conditions.
So i think the sidestand switch could be the reason your lights came on for a short time because it is an e.c.u. input and the thing to look for is the exact same voltage every time the sidestand is up, ( close to 0 volts is a good contact ) if this value changes a lot the contact is not reliable.
When i tried my sidestand switch over twenty times 19 times it read 0,005 volts and be sure the probes make good contact.
Also wriggle the wiring of the sidestand switch whilst checking the 0 volt reading to check for intermittent contact of the wiring.
RE: Electrical problem maybe? - Cormanus - 05-22-2020
Thank you.