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+--- Thread: First Oil Change (/showthread.php?tid=2680)
RE: First Oil Change - Toddman_imp - 11-20-2015
Bob, What you WILL run into is trying to get that blasted factory first oil filter off. It's pretty snug.
RE: First Oil Change - LongRanger_imp - 11-20-2015
Last time I went to WalMart to pick up a quart of 20W50, there was none to be found. They no longer carry it. That's progress, I guess.
RE: First Oil Change - MikeOxbig_imp - 11-20-2015
I asked my tech the same question on switching to synthetic (at the first oil change, 600 miles) and he said that should be fine, but he also mentioned he personally would make the switch after 3K to 4K miles. So I followed his recommendation.
RE: First Oil Change - mattmcuomo@yahoo.com - 11-20-2015
I did mine recently, just used Honda 10/30. Price was comparable to others. I did have trouble getting factory filter off too! Had to tap it loose with hammer and chisel!
Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk
RE: First Oil Change - redbirds_imp - 11-20-2015
Strange, the oil filter on my 2013 came away easily at the first oil change. Lucky I guess.
RE: First Oil Change - flynrider - 11-20-2015
(11-20-2015, 04:21 AM)Bokobob_imp Wrote: Answered my own question by going to WalMart and checking many brands, both dino and synthetic...Many/most of both synthetic and dino were indicated to be "resource conserving" which the owner's manual says is a no-no. The only conventional 10W30 oil I saw that was not "resource conserving" was that for high mileage vehicles. Went to Honda bike dealer and bought 4 quarts of Honda Bike oil for $5.57 a quart...End of problem..(They give me a 10% discount on all parts that I buy.)..
I will change it in a week or so...right now it is still not within a hundred miles of 600.
Kind regards,
Bob
Hey Bob,
The spec you're looking for is JASO-MA or MA2. That's the one that deals specifically with motorcycles equipped with wet clutches. Most motorcycle specific oils meet the spec and some non-motorcycle specific oils (like some grades of Rotella) also meet the spec.
Looking for the "energy conserving" note on the API spec circle used to work, but the latest API specs allow for friction modifiers without necessarily having to use that label. The safest bet is just to go with something that uses the correct JASO spec.
RE: First Oil Change - jerrycon_imp - 11-20-2015
Ditto on the oil filter. Must have been put on by [url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godzilla]Godzilla himself there in [url=http://world.honda.com/group/production/sites/kumamoto/index.html]Kumamoto.
RE: First Oil Change - Rocky_imp - 11-20-2015
(11-20-2015, 02:05 PM)jerrycon_imp Wrote: Ditto on the oil filter. Must have been put on by [url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godzilla]Godzilla himself there in [url=http://world.honda.com/group/production/sites/kumamoto/index.html]Kumamoto.
Same here. Mine was so tight I didn't think I could ever break it loose, but it eventually broke free.
RE: First Oil Change - Bokobob_imp - 11-20-2015
I'll give a report on my bike's filter removal difficulty in a week or so.
Grace + Peace,
Bob
RE: First Oil Change - Bokobob_imp - 11-21-2015
Well, the potential difficulty in loosening the filter piqued my interest so I did loosen it just to see if I could. I used a special filter vise-grip type tool and when I got it tightened "just right" it came loose by giving it a very hard twist...I tightened it back up by hand and in just 100 more miles I'll be at 600 miles and will change the oil and filter. I bought the tool at Harbor Freight some time ago for about eight dollars...It is a ViseGrip knock off made in China.