(01-03-2017, 09:38 AM)Wisedrum_imp Wrote: I dig what you're writing about.
But this will be no answer to the question, why my CB always had good and low idle revs through all seasons of the year for a long time, after it was warmend and than all of sudden the idle problem came into play during last summer and stayed. I ride the machine long enough on trips, so it should be warm enough. But there is a lot of electronics working together and lots of data flying around, who knows how it is connected and how some slightest bugs in the world of bits and codes can lead to irritations? I' m not an engineer, but I do my best to work on some tips, to keep this bugs out and let the honda run normal again or what I consider to be normal. This high rev thing isn't it with a warm motor.

Wisedrum

(11-21-2016, 12:19 AM)johnf514_imp Wrote: Hi Tory, Dave. I caution you both on the ECU reset/reflash. I had this done three (3) times and the high idle condition returned. It was only after the dealership replaced the idle air control valve motor that the issue was (hopefully) resolved.

I realize that your issue may be different from mine, just wanted to add my experience.

(12-31-2016, 11:16 AM)beardyweirdy@me.com_imp Wrote: This could explain why people start to get this problem suddenly after a year or two of trouble free riding, when their battery looses power.
I also, along with others have only had the problem after riding thru town for 20-30mim, at low revs. At very low revs the alternator may not be producing enough power to keep the battery topped up enough and it throws up a problem.
Just Sayin....

(08-31-2017, 07:24 AM)Riko_imp Wrote:

(12-31-2016, 11:16 AM)beardyweirdy@me.com_imp Wrote: This could explain why people start to get this problem suddenly after a year or two of trouble free riding, when their battery looses power.
I also, along with others have only had the problem after riding thru town for 20-30mim, at low revs. At very low revs the alternator may not be producing enough power to keep the battery topped up enough and it throws up a problem.
Just Sayin....

I just changed my battery and had no issues prior to that.

In fact, the period when I had the stalling issue was when my battery was in top notch conditions.

People seem so desperate to find a solution for this they tend to make correlations between the idle issues and new events such as a new battery being replaced.

I dont believe for one bit the battery has anything to do with these issues.

(08-31-2017, 07:14 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:

(11-21-2016, 12:19 AM)johnf514_imp Wrote: Hi Tory, Dave. I caution you both on the ECU reset/reflash. I had this done three (3) times and the high idle condition returned. It was only after the dealership replaced the idle air control valve motor that the issue was (hopefully) resolved.

I realize that your issue may be different from mine, just wanted to add my experience.

Hi John, if I remember right, your bike was under warranty at the time you had the IACV motor replaced. Do know what the cost would have been if you had to pay for it? Part and labor?

(08-31-2017, 10:48 PM)johnf514_imp Wrote:

(08-31-2017, 07:14 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:

(11-21-2016, 12:19 AM)johnf514_imp Wrote: Hi Tory, Dave. I caution you both on the ECU reset/reflash. I had this done three (3) times and the high idle condition returned. It was only after the dealership replaced the idle air control valve motor that the issue was (hopefully) resolved.

I realize that your issue may be different from mine, just wanted to add my experience.

Hi John, if I remember right, your bike was under warranty at the time you had the IACV motor replaced. Do know what the cost would have been if you had to pay for it? Part and labor?

Hi pdedse, your memory serves you correctly. I don't have the invoice in front of me, but I believe the total for the IACV work was north of a grand, parts and labor. I believe they replaced the entire assembly, leading to the high cost.

(11-15-2016, 11:56 AM)Dave_imp Wrote:

(11-15-2016, 07:54 AM)Wisedrum_imp Wrote: My CB developed higher idle revs when being warmed up without me knowing why.
Since summer I get used to it and talked to Honda engineers about this phenomenon. One gave me the tip to ignore it and take it as being normal. There are a lot of sensors interplaying with the ECU, but which one can be the reason the higher revs? Another engineer suggested to let the ECU reset by a honda dealer and if this will not cause any change, then a new program can be played into the EPROM, which was developed to stop the low rev idle problem. It may help.

I will do the first and maybe the second step next spring. All I found out 'til now is, the engine has higher idle revs when it is cold, 1.500U/min. Then, when the machine is slightly warmed up, the idle speed sinks slowly down to 1.050. So far so normal.
After a few more km the idle speed does not return from higher revs when I close the throttle to these revs, but stays at 1.500 as being cold. But I can bring the engine to have the normal idle speed again by either use the key off mode and then start the engine again. Or I slow the machine down in a high gear, which causes less then 1.500. Then the idle speed is normal. I often use the second method. The CB is somehow a machine of mircales and wonders. And it is a standard 2013 one.

Wisedrum

Once my bike enters the high idle (1,500 rpm) mode after reaching operating temperature there is nothing I can do, except unplug the EOT sensor, to get the idle back to the normal 1050 rpm. I have tried your suggestions and they didn't work for me.
Installed a new EOT sensor last Saturday. The idle speed actually returned to normal after warm-up (1,050 rpm) for a short while, but after a few miles of 2nd gear stop and go riding in the neighborhood it returned to 1,500 rpm (seems the engine just needed to get hotter). Unplugged the EOT sensor and the rpm returned to a perfect 1,050 (never ran better!). I was in a rush and didn't measure the resistance of either the old or new sensors before installing the new one. I checked the old sensor and it measured 1.90 kilo-ohm. I removed and inspected the new sensor and it measured 1.95 kilo-ohm. Both the old and the new sensors are out of spec, which is 2.4 - 2.9 kilo-ohm. Now I have to see if the dealer will swap this sensor for a replacement. Even though unplugging the EOT sensor causes the bike to run perfectly, and both of my sensors are out-of-spec, I am not convinced the EOT is the root cause. I sure hope Honda comes up with a fix because this is frustrating me, and I am out of warranty. I asked at the service counter if there were any known repairs for this condition and I was told that there are not any recalls or service bulletins available. So please, if anyone does get their ECM remapped by Honda then please let me know. I also tried disconnecting the battery to see if this would reset my ECM but this didn't do anything either.