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+--- Thread: Front Wheel Collard question (/showthread.php?tid=4902)
Front Wheel Collard question - jdvalero_imp - 09-23-2019
Need your help on this one. Replaced front tires and something is wrong.
According to the shop manual the collards are the same exact measurement length wise. Parts manual tell me there are two different sizes. Can someone take a picture of your front end to see if it looks like mine. I need to see the collards #4 and #3 on the diagram Left and Right side please.
Standard 2014
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - LongRanger_imp - 09-23-2019
Here's the RHS and LHS looking at the wheel from the front of the bike (2014 DLX):
![[Image: 874cc0744de79a33493f5267c3219252.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201909/874cc0744de79a33493f5267c3219252.jpg)
![[Image: 0b0223eb1c902898656745518c904399.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201909/0b0223eb1c902898656745518c904399.jpg)
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - max - 09-23-2019
JD, couple of things happened some time ago, someone had their wheel in backwarsd after it had new tires installed.
Looking at my frontwheel it has an arrow on the right hand side and one on each of the brake disks ( thanks popgun ), the tire also has an arrow on it, they should all point in the direction of rotation as you probably know.
The shaft is tightened up on the side with the axle bolt first ( is the spacer between the wheelbearings inside the hub in place? ) ( in my opinion just enough so the inner race of the wheel bearings do not spin ), then the two allen bolt clamps done up on that side ( right side in my case ) and FINALLY the other side has the two clamp-bolts done up in that order, otherwise the shaft and the front forks can be mis- aligned and bind up.
The space between the bearing seal and the forks is 10mm on the right and 9.5mm on the left, my wheel spins without any friction from the disks or otherwise.
Without taking the spacers out i cannot remember if they were identical and i also like to put a little grease on the inside of the lip of the seal where it slides over the collars, it makes them last longer and keeps moisture out.
Your drawing is for the abs model, that could be different in the non-abs version.
What do you think is wrong with your wheel and what are you like with a camera if the problem persists?
Probably all known knowledge but i wanted to put it all on one page.
Thanks LR!
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - jdvalero_imp - 09-23-2019
(09-23-2019, 03:10 PM)LongRanger_imp Wrote: Here's the RHS and LHS looking at the wheel from the front of the bike (2014 DLX):
Mine looks like that... exactly!....Thanks!
(09-23-2019, 03:30 PM)max_imp Wrote: JD, couple of things happened some time ago, someone had their wheel in backwarsd after it had new tires installed.
Looking at my frontwheel it has an arrow on the right hand side and one on each of the brake disks ( thanks popgun ), the tire also has an arrow on it, they should all point in the direction of rotation as you probably know.
The shaft is tightened up on the side with the axle bolt first ( is the spacer between the wheelbearings inside the hub in place? ) ( in my opinion just enough so the inner race of the wheel bearings do not spin ), then the two allen bolt clamps done up on that side ( right side in my case ) and FINALLY the other side has the two clamp-bolts done up in that order, otherwise the shaft and the front forks can be mis- aligned and bind up.
The space between the bearing seal and the forks is 10mm on the right and 9.5mm on the left, my wheel spins without any friction from the disks or otherwise.
Without taking the spacers out i cannot remember if they were identical and i also like to put a little grease on the inside of the lip of the seal where it slides over the collars, it makes them last longer and keeps moisture out.
Your drawing is for the abs model, that could be different in the non-abs version.
What do you think is wrong with your wheel and what are you like with a camera if the problem persists?
Probably all known knowledge but i wanted to put it all on one page.
Thanks LR!
Did all of what you recommended on install. I do know that the tires and rims are directionals tires and rims
This is my third time around with the front tire...Changed thousand of tires all my life but this time I developed a "Click" right after and is bugging me that I can't find it. The only thing I can think about is a broken spring inside the fork. It only happens when taking off from a stand still.
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - Cormanus - 09-23-2019
On the non-ABS model, #3 is cheaper than #4 which makes me think it is smaller and aligns with my recollection that one is smaller than the other.
Given they're the same part numbers for the ABS, they're identical.
JDV is it one click or a click-click-click ... ?
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - jimgl3_imp - 09-23-2019
sitting on the bike the one on the right is longer just like in the diagram you posted. they drew it exaggerated so you can see it. it will only work the correct way, so you will know if you messed up.
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - the Ferret - 09-23-2019
Check bolts on calipers. A loose one could cause a click. Can you hear it when braking too?
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - max - 09-24-2019
#2 what ferret says, have you removed the calipers for this job or just spread the pads to give some room to move?
If so i always rotate the calipers in the direction of brake force so they rest against the limit of movement and are supported against rotation just before i tighten the two bolts, that way they are always perfectly aligned every time and don't make any noise.
Here is a clip that may be useful if the forks are not settled correctly, you don't have a fork brace do you?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtBuMRbhjdc
It seems if you want to check the springs to screw the preload adjusters on the top of the fork legs out and see if the force is different between the two, if a spring is broken one should be easyer to turn than the other and the "click" sounds different with them in the "out" position.
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - Ben70_imp - 09-24-2019
Try coming to a stop without touching the front brake, then see if it does it. No click would seem to indicate a brake problem as outlined above.
Ben
RE: Front Wheel Collard question - jdvalero_imp - 09-25-2019
(09-23-2019, 08:07 PM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: On the non-ABS model, #3 is cheaper than #4 which makes me think it is smaller and aligns with my recollection that one is smaller than the other.
Given they're the same part numbers for the ABS, they're identical.
JDV is it one click or a click-click-click ... ?
Cormanus is a one click noise. More like a mild Clack!
(09-23-2019, 10:58 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Check bolts on calipers. A loose one could cause a click. Can you hear it when braking too?
Ferret
I checked (Torqued) all bolts and nuts from Handle bar to pinch bolts at wheel axel.
It does not come out when stopping.
(09-24-2019, 01:27 AM)max_imp Wrote: #2 what ferret says, have you removed the calipers for this job or just spread the pads to give some room to move?
If so i always rotate the calipers in the direction of brake force so they rest against the limit of movement and are supported against rotation just before i tighten the two bolts, that way they are always perfectly aligned every time and don't make any noise.
Here is a clip that may be useful if the forks are not settled correctly, you don't have a fork brace do you?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtBuMRbhjdc
It seems if you want to check the springs to screw the preload adjusters on the top of the fork legs out and see if the force is different between the two, if a spring is broken one should be easyer to turn than the other and the "click" sounds different with them in the "out" position.
I removed the calipers and inserted a piece of wood to prevent them from closing accidentally then I slightly pry them open.after torquing the bolts I pumped the front brake lever repeatedly to pump the piston back out.
I do not have a fork brace
On the preload adjustment at the fork I have gone from total OUT (Three line showing on the screw) to complete in or bottom down (no lines showing).
nothing CLACK is still there.