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Full Version: Changed Final Drive Gearing 2013
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Interesting.....the rear on the 13 is 39T and the 14 is 40T.
I'm a retired Science Teacher. And I've changed the stock gearing on several of my motorcycles through the years. I run a 17 tooth front sprocket on my CB. My goal was not quicker acceleration in a narrowly defined data set such as 0-60 mph. My goal was to accelerate quicker, vs stock, in any gear/rpm. In the stock configuration, with my size (6'3", 250 lbs) the CB was sluggish. Now, the bikes jumps forward when I require rapid acceleration.
Higher gearing will most likely have a shorter 0-60 if first gear tops out right at 60.

Lower gearing will be quicker until you shift. Once you shift into second, that higher final drive will still be lower than a stock second gear. So once you shift the stock gearing into second you will be accelerating slower than the modified higher gearing. Also, you have to account for the time it takes to shift into second (varies by rider).

If you increase the gear ratio and still have to shift, then physics are easy to apply and higher ratio will be slower.

I have a spread sheet for this very purpose that I'm working on to find optimum gearing for 0-60. I've been to busy and haven't had time to measure my CoG(need to find out if bike is traction limited, or wheelie limited)

Depending on riders ability to slip the clutch and shifting speed, 0-60 may be faster with lower gearing, stock gearing, or higher gearing.

I forgot which engineer said it, someone in F1: "It isn't have fast you can make the car, it is how fast the driver thinks he can drive the car."
(03-20-2015, 03:37 AM)Waffa_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Higher gearing will most likely have a shorter 0-60 if first gear tops out right at 60.

Lower gearing will be quicker until you shift. Once you shift into second, that higher final drive will still be lower than a stock second gear. So once you shift the stock gearing into second you will be accelerating slower than the modified higher gearing. Also, you have to account for the time it takes to shift into second (varies by rider).

If you increase the gear ratio and still have to shift, then physics are easy to apply and higher ratio will be slower.

I have a spread sheet for this very purpose that I'm working on to find optimum gearing for 0-60. I've been to busy and haven't had time to measure my CoG(need to find out if bike is traction limited, or wheelie limited)

Depending on riders ability to slip the clutch and shifting speed, 0-60 may be faster with lower gearing, stock gearing, or higher gearing.

I forgot which engineer said it, someone in F1: "It isn't have fast you can make the car, it is how fast the driver thinks he can drive the car."

Neither! Wink
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