The CB1100 Community Forum

Here's a few pics of the fork boots, unfortunately they are dark because we just got pounded with snow and my bike is all covered up in the garage. The instructions that came with the boots are in Japanese.
Dino

I would definitely not recommend these specific fork boots, I would go for traditional fork boots instead.

They are Kijima Eazy Ons

2 sizes with part numbers HD-03220 & HD-03221.

These might seem easy to install, and I bet they are, but you have confirmed my 2 main concerns:
1. the gaps are HUGE and can be seen, no matter wich direction you point them, even inwards.

2. how do you close the gaps?
glue, cement, tie wraps, combination of all those things.
Nothing is gonna help imo or it will take a long time to find "the right formula"

So when I was looking for fork boots I initially wanted to get these, but than did some research and this picture wisely made me decide not to go for these boots:


He used the tie wraps that came with it and in each ring he also uses some wiring and it still doesn't look flush to me.
Thats too much fiddling for an unfinished looking product.

I did order Kijima, but the closed ones, part number HD-03216


To make them sit nicely tight around the top, I did have to cut a small part from the top of the boot, than routed a wrap tie thru 2 holes so it sits firmly.
This is because the diameter of the fork boot is a tad too large for the forks on our CB.
This method did have as a result that I have a rather big hole on top of each fork boot...but that hole is not visable from any normal angle, unless you are looking downwards at the rear and at the top of the boot.

At the garage we first made the hole and than wrap tied it around the boot...
Afterward I redid the wrap tie thru the 2 holes.
If I had figured out that method first the hole wouldn't be that big as it is now.

But that hole leds to the fact that in a pouring rain water gets into the boot, and a simple hole at the bottom is for from sufficient to let the water out, believe me, I did.
The solution for this is simple, I can just lift up the fork boot at the bottom and the remaining water just runs out of the boot.
I'd rather not have any water sitting in the fork boot at the bottom...

With those Eazy Ons, I can imagine lifting a fork boot would rip the sensitive glue and you can start all over again.
Unless you make the boot sit water and air tight.

From a facebook member in Taiwan or Thailand


This is mine:


Here are some close ups, with white wrap ties
But the white wrap ties make it easier to see how I rerouted them on top...
And you can't even see the hole from this side view..




Here you can see the hole on top and how the the wrap ties comes in and out the top.

Thanks Riko for your detailed write up and the pics. After sleeping on it, I called RevZilla this morning in an attempt to cancel the order for the split gaiters, but too late. So, I'll just return them for refund. I went ahead and ordered the solid gaiters and may get them by the weekend. I was somewhat aprehensive about attempting to install solids due to the removal of the front wheel, fender, calipers and forks and being able to get things re-aligned, but decided I can do it! Seems as if the splits are more of a PITA and cost more than double the price of the solid gaiters. Wonder why?

Well, I had the luck that I found a free mechanic around the holidays, he does this as a paid hobby

I could every step he did.

There is a topic wich is actually very good to follow.
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3289

And also just make sure you follow the torque settings...
[url=http://www.imagebam.com/image/9c00a0456147163]

Only thing you would need is a lift or something to but underneath the bike so its high enough so that you can remove the actual forks...

Thanks! I have a motorcycle lift. Just need to see if it will fit underneath the 1100. I use it to hoist my Goldwing but I have not tried it with the 1100. I seem to remember reading somewhere that an extra piece like a block of wood was needed for the left side but that may have been for the cruiser I no longer have.
Was the pic above from the Honda service manual or a parts fishe?

Update: Tried the M/C lift (or jack if you prefer to call it that) and quickly abandoned the idea to use it. The cat converter is 3 1'2" lower than the RH side rail and both LH and RH rails are at different heights from the floor when the cycle is standing straight up. I have a work-around plan, however.

got the picture here somewhere...but the torque values are valid, checked most of them from my owners manual and they are the same.

(01-27-2016, 04:13 AM)Riko_imp Wrote: [ -> ]got the picture here somewhere...but the torque values are valid, checked most of them from my owners manual and they are the same.

Due to the highlighting (and maybe my poor eyesight) I cannot make out many of the numbers but they are listed in the service manual, which I have.

hmm yeah now i see the pics stay small after clicking...

this is better

(01-27-2016, 08:54 AM)Riko_imp Wrote: [ -> ]hmm yeah now i see the pics stay small after clicking...

this is better

Thanks. I used this and Ferret's tutorial to install Kijima gaiters today. First time I've ever had the calipers and fork tubes off a motorcycle. I did use my motorcycle jack under the engine. I tied off the cycle on each side to support posts in my basement to eliminate a tip over. Happy camper tonight. My only concern is it seemed to take forever to tighten the axle nut. It torqued okay, finally. I'm ready to tackle the front end mods on my Goldwing now.

Glad to hear that all went well