08-05-2016, 10:04 AM
08-05-2016, 10:29 AM
The hard wired one you mentioned might be nice, but in my experience with tach/hour meters similar to this, the batteries last many years. And I think it can be changed as there were screws on the back of the meter.
08-05-2016, 12:02 PM
The TTV also is self powered by its own internal battery. The connection to the bike's battery is for controlling a fan, but also can be monitored as well.
08-05-2016, 12:52 PM
Appears to be missing an amp meter, altimeter, compass, and humidity gauge. Then it would be fully instrumented.
08-05-2016, 10:24 PM
My phone will do a couple of those things 
. 
. 08-05-2016, 10:27 PM
True enough
08-13-2016, 05:51 AM
Engine oil needs to see temps. regularly (but not constant) above 212. This is needed to evaporate the moisture in the oil created by internal combustion. If it is not evaporated it will mix with other chemicals created by internal combustion to create acid, which will erode seals, bearings,
rings, cyl. bore, etc. Most oils start breaking down at about 275 degrees,
but a good synthetic oil is good to about 350 degrees. Probably why the warning light is set for 340.
rings, cyl. bore, etc. Most oils start breaking down at about 275 degrees,
but a good synthetic oil is good to about 350 degrees. Probably why the warning light is set for 340.
08-13-2016, 10:07 AM
Although the boiling temperature of water is 212F, your oil doesn't need to get quite that hot. Moisture in the crankcase will begin to vaporize at around 160F - 170F, and will exit through the crankcase breather.
That said, I strongly agree with all of reasons why oil needs to get hot enough to purge moisture. Starting a cold air cooled engine will send plenty of acidic moisture into the crankcase, due to the cold ring gap common to these engines (the gap closes as the engine warms up). Numerous cold starts without reaching normal operating temps will eventually result in a corrosive, white colored goo in the crankcase. If you ever see that, it's a clue that your oil is not getting hot enough.
That said, I strongly agree with all of reasons why oil needs to get hot enough to purge moisture. Starting a cold air cooled engine will send plenty of acidic moisture into the crankcase, due to the cold ring gap common to these engines (the gap closes as the engine warms up). Numerous cold starts without reaching normal operating temps will eventually result in a corrosive, white colored goo in the crankcase. If you ever see that, it's a clue that your oil is not getting hot enough.
12-20-2016, 12:22 PM
(08-13-2016, 05:51 AM)Roadwarrior_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Engine oil needs to see temps. regularly (but not constant) above 212. This is needed to evaporate the moisture in the oil created by internal combustion. If it is not evaporated it will mix with other chemicals created by internal combustion to create acid, which will erode seals, bearings,
rings, cyl. bore, etc. Most oils start breaking down at about 275 degrees,
but a good synthetic oil is good to about 350 degrees. Probably why the warning light is set for 340.
Just curious how you know the High Oil Temperature Indicator is set to come on for 340F? Is it in service manual specs? Thanks
12-20-2016, 07:49 PM
G'day HillCountryRider and welcome to the forum. Why not pop over to the New Members Section, tell us all about yourself and show us some pictures of your bike(s)? We're desperate for entertainment around here.