i agree about the internet thing, but the problem is there's no real video resources on the net about specifically how to do this thing. I would need to sit down and watch somebody do it, preferably repeatedly, before attempting it myself. there's probably a video about taking apart the forks on some other bike somewhere, but nothing specifically about lifting the top bridge on the CB1100. then of course you guys have probably seen my other thread about having basically no tools. it's a really sticky situation. times like these, i sometimes figure it's better to give up than to f*** something up that I can't afford to fix.
That said, the idea about bolt-cutting the steel rods and and just sliding the thing out is almost crazy enough to work. it's extra money to replace the bracket, but I wouldn't have to do that right away. maybe in a couple of years. it is a waste of money, but it might be the only thing my limited skill set can tackle. i'm going to give it some serious thought, and take a look at Pekings description of what to do with the top bridge to make triple sure I actually have the necessary tools for that.
edit: nope, i didn't have to read very far into that. I definitely don't have anything that can deal with a 30mm nut, and i certainly don't have a torque wrench, or even a rubber mallet. So, by the time i buy 4-5 tools just for this job, i've paid a mechanic. I'm going to keep thinking about what to do, but i don't think lifting the top bridge is going to be within my grasp.
Better to be cautious than to do damage or potential harm.
Generally, I don't endorse mayhem like this. But there is another reason to do so. All the wiring from the main harness, gauges and switches and turn signals passes through the headlight, which must be removed to take off the headlight bracket .
To remove an intact headlight bracket, you would have to take the headlight chrome rim assembly off (you have to do that to unplug/plug in turn signals anyway). Additionally, you would have to unplug all of the connectors within the headlight, run them out the back of the headlight, remove the bracket, and then run them back in and reconnect them. By cutting the bracket in those 4 places, you avoid having to remove the headlight shell and all the wiring, but destroy the bracket.
Here's what we're up against, viewed from the back of the left side, should you chose to cut it. Both sides have the same access.
Look it over carefully, as it was probably a lot more than you expected, and likely not worth the headache.
If you have no tools, no skills and most importantly no money- well unfortunately that you should just ride your bike as is.
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Sometimes there are creative ways to do things, sometimes there aren't. That's what we're here to suss out. If i led my life limited by the tools at my disposal i wouldn't have half of what I have today.
(10-05-2018, 02:06 PM)misterprofessionality_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Sometimes there are creative ways to do things, sometimes there aren't. That's what we're here to suss out. If i led my life limited by the tools at my disposal i wouldn't have half of what I have today.
Would you mind sharing what headlight brackets you are going to use. I know a lot of them require sliding the top bridge off completely.
(10-05-2018, 03:41 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (10-05-2018, 02:06 PM)misterprofessionality_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Sometimes there are creative ways to do things, sometimes there aren't. That's what we're here to suss out. If i led my life limited by the tools at my disposal i wouldn't have half of what I have today.
Would you mind sharing what headlight brackets you are going to use. I know a lot of them require sliding the top bridge off completely.
obviously this is only if I can manage to remove the existing bracket, but the plan was to go with this one:
https://www.samurider.com/?p=20073
it opens up and clamps around the forks, so you don't need to do anything with the top bridge.
No, that slides down the fork leg. It is not hinged.
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(10-06-2018, 01:56 AM)misterprofessionality_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (10-05-2018, 03:41 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (10-05-2018, 02:06 PM)misterprofessionality_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Sometimes there are creative ways to do things, sometimes there aren't. That's what we're here to suss out. If i led my life limited by the tools at my disposal i wouldn't have half of what I have today.
Would you mind sharing what headlight brackets you are going to use. I know a lot of them require sliding the top bridge off completely.
obviously this is only if I can manage to remove the existing bracket, but the plan was to go with this one:
https://www.samurider.com/?p=20073
it opens up and clamps around the forks, so you don't need to do anything with the top bridge.
obviously this is only if I can manage to remove the existing bracket, but the plan was to go with this one:
https://www.samurider.com/?p=20073
it opens up and clamps around the forks, so you don't need to do anything with the top bridge.
Well, they look nice, but unfortunately you have to completely remove the top clamp to install them. If you try to open them up they'll snap before you spread them even 1/2". Anything cast aluminum or billet aluminum WILL NOT bend. There are some that are 2-piece around the fork tube or that hinge, but not this one.
(10-06-2018, 02:32 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: [ -> ]No, that slides down the fork leg. It is not hinged.
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you dont' say? it looks like there's a clear seam where the bolt clasps it together, meaning it would bend out like a metal ties. you're saying it doesn't bend far enough to get around the fork?
if that's the case, then this whole idea is completely bust. i'm going to have to find some other way to relocate the signals.
No, it isn't meant to bend much, maybe 1/16", just enough to tighten it as you see it, and there will still be a gap. Saved yourself $200.
Here's an example of a hinged one on eBay for $30.
For reference, your forks are 41mm.
https://www.ebay.com/i/132701801464?chn=ps