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Full Version: Where to tap speed sensor signal?
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It depends what sensor is attached to these two wires...
popgun , max, SportsterDoc, are we going to run an e-clinicHuh

Generally speaking, without going into details, if there is a two wire pulse generator (N-S) sensor = it does not matter which wire is used as a signal.
In a two (or three) wire hall-effect sensor does mater, signal only.
If I am wrong, correct me please, brain ageing
I need a break with 0.1 amp fuse and VACATION with 200A fuseTongue
I just sent a message to Signal Dynamics asking if they have any insight on this. We'll see if they have anything to add.
Well in the case of egleaves he may get an interesting answer from sd. ( edited )

In Josh's case if he has a non abs bike it may be ( depending on the level of the signal )possible to have an opto coupler parallel with the sensor and work something with the output to 5 or 12 volts with a resistor in the output and derive a signal from that.
The led in the opto needs 3 volt or so to light up so that would require 0 to 5 volts from the sensor which is doubtful but he could measure that now across the sensor wires and see if he gets 2,5 v dc with a 50 % duty cycle, all this exceeds the scope of the instructions in his manual for the pcv and i think he needs some help from someone that understands what these parts do.

I agree with peter that this is outside what we normally do and must be getting quite boring for the rest of the forum, sooooo.
My response to egleaves was limited to identifying the wire for a speed signal, as instructed by Signal Dynamics.

I know my limitations (most of the time), thus the suggestion to contact Signal Dynamics and to return the responsibility to them.

As for a signal off a cam position sensor or crank position sensor, my little bit of knowledge is limited to H-D Sportsters (and some Jeep Wrangler) experience:

Sportster crank position sensors are 2 wire units, which may be described as variable reluctance sensors or magnetic pulse generators, etc. They do not have as clean a signal as hall effect, but generally more durable (simple coil). As with the hall effect, they are typically rated -40 C to 150 C (300F).

For 2004-2006 Sportsters, the voltmeter red lead is connected to ICM position 8 and the black lead to ICM position 9.

For 2007-2013 Sportsters, the voltmeter read lead is connected to ECM position 30 and the black lead to ECM position 12.

Note: This is a sine wave and requires the AC scale
While cranking: ~ 0.3 VAC
At idle: ~ 1 VAC
Static: N/A

When your bike is not starting, this basic test will validate a functional CKP or indicate a failed CKP. A failed unit will not provide a signal. However, this is not sufficient to test for a failing unit with inconsistent output.
Update for Egleaves and PowerDubas/Josh and others...
...will send some info about your case with huge delay due to no time and other errands Confused, sorry guys
No problem Peter.


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(07-23-2018, 09:09 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Update for Egleaves and PowerDubas/Josh and others...
...will send some info about your case with huge delay due to no time and other errands Confused, sorry guys

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided
(07-24-2018, 02:31 AM)egleaves_imp Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-23-2018, 09:09 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Update for Egleaves and PowerDubas/Josh and others...
...will send some info about your case with huge delay due to no time and other errands Confused, sorry guys

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided
NO, YOU NEED DVOM, FLUKE, NOT JUST METER
(07-24-2018, 03:30 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-24-2018, 02:31 AM)egleaves_imp Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-23-2018, 09:09 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Update for Egleaves and PowerDubas/Josh and others...
...will send some info about your case with huge delay due to no time and other errands Confused, sorry guys

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided
NO, YOU NEED DVOM, FLUKE, NOT JUST METER

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided
NO, YOU NEED DVOM, FLUKE, NOT JUST METER
Mine is digital. And missing.

It's not a Fluke, but it gets the job done. Well, it used to....
(07-24-2018, 03:48 AM)egleaves_imp Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-24-2018, 03:30 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-24-2018, 02:31 AM)egleaves_imp Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-23-2018, 09:09 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Update for Egleaves and PowerDubas/Josh and others...
...will send some info about your case with huge delay due to no time and other errands Confused, sorry guys

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided
NO, YOU NEED DVOM, FLUKE, NOT JUST METER

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided
NO, YOU NEED DVOM, FLUKE, NOT JUST METER
Mine is digital. And missing.

It's not a Fluke, but it gets the job done. Well, it used to....

No worries....I'm still looking for my multimeter Undecided
NO, YOU NEED DVOM, FLUKE, NOT JUST METER
Mine is digital. And missing.

It's not a Fluke, but it gets the job done. Well, it used to....
WILL see when job is completed.
Popgun can lend you one with 2 propellers and bakelite case..just ask him..Tongue
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