The CB1100 Community Forum

Nicki,

I'm not normally a white paint kinda guy- but your bike would look awesome with a white painted aluminum cowl.

Somebody was selling one on the classifieds here somewhat recently- I don't know if it is still available.

(04-22-2018, 12:44 AM)Hondakid_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Love the look Chync!
The continuation of the red from tank to seat cowl line is very cool. I love the tank with the two racing lines so much i may just add that to my black std in red, inverse of yours.

Also, with ECU plus Power commander and a dyno tune what were your results? I am not expecting 100 hp, but it would be cool to see where you ended up.

I ended up at 93hp with my mods


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(04-21-2018, 05:26 PM)Nicki-nitro_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Your bike is awesome. I like the Kineo wheels (my wife doesn't), but for me they are too expensive. I like the painted aluminium cowl from WM and consider this mod as well but in original Honda white paint. And I also want a larger fuel tank.

I would love to buy this tank from Samurider but again, this is expensive. [url=https://www.samurider.com/?p=26837]WHITEHOUSE:CB1100 K10 TANK:WHITE.
Therefore I do consider your solution with a [url=https://www.samurider.com/?p=25993]2017 Honda CB1100EX Fuel tank,White (honda0101).
Could you please give me some tips, a kind of "how-to"... what I have to consider, if I will buy the 2017 tank for my bike and therefore what I have to buy/modify as a consequence???
- tank
- other handlebar?
- modified seat?
- second key from Honda for the tank lock?
- ???

I have a 2013 CB1100A (SC65) in white.



Thanks in advance
Ronald

Tank swap requires no mods to the bike. You will have to move your fuel float from the old to new tank but it’s easy. The fuel capacity gauge is calibrated for the smaller tank size so it will indicate you are getting low when you really have an extra half gallon of fuel. Otherwise no issues.


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I can live easily with two keys. But the issue with the fuel capacity gauge seems to me like a typical "tuning trap". You modify one thing and this has other "negative" consequences.

So far my tank indicates "low" (fuel indicator starts to flash) and when I make it full, 11L (2.9 gallons) are spent, or 3.5L (0.9 gallons) are left. With the new 4.5 gallon tank, it remains the same or does it really indicates "empty" with a rest of 2L (0.5 gallons)??? So start flashing with 2L left?. This were totally acceptable.

Where do I get the second key (Honda or Samurider)?

When you order the tank make sure you order the fuel cap, it’s a separate part and comes with the key.


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Many thanks.
Ronald

(09-20-2017, 10:21 AM)chync_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Had the bike painted to match my 2017 tank. I think I'm done. ;-)

Everything I have done to my 2014 so far:

Windscreen
Short handlebars
2017 tank
Custom seat
Short front and rear fenders
Rear rack
17" tubeless spoked aluminum wheels
Pirelli Diablo Rosso III tires
Smaller front sprocket
Ohlins rear shocks
Ohlins front fork inserts
Fork brace
Steel braided brake lines
Aggressive brake pads
Lowered front end and raised the rear
Staintune exhaust
Jet hot coated headers
Frame sliders
Power commander v
Flashed ecu
Dyno tuned fuel map
Custom paint





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Great job looks great. Can you please talk about the rear ohlins shocks and wether the piggy back reservoirs were installed at the bottom instead of the top like on some models. Thanks


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Ideally, shock reservoirs are run at the top to reduce the unsprung weight. In this case, the reservoir may interfere with the rack mounts.

The Ohlins model I have are fully adjustable and one of the adjusters is at the top of the reservoir if mounted normally. Unfortunately the mounting bolts for the side grab rails do not provide enough clearance for the adjuster. The reservoir for this model is pressurized so Ohlins techs said they would function normally if mounted upside down so I swapped the mounting bushings between the top and bottom and inverted them.

Those same bolts for the grab rails are also required for the rear rack. If I didn’t use the rear rack I would just remove the grab rails and mount the shocks normally. I almost had a working solution by orienting the reservoirs toward the front of the bike in an upright orientation. Unfortunately the reservoir on the left side blocked access to the key hole for the seat lock. It was close. I almost cut the end off a key which would have just had enough clearance.

There are some other Ohlins reservoir bodies that sit much lower in relation to the upper mounting but they are not fully adjustable.


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I just realized the bike has changed a little since I posted the photo. The red matching front fender was added and I removed the rear fender.


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Got it Chync


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What adjustment do you loose if you get the non-fully adjustable ohlins model that don’t interfere with anything


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(11-01-2020, 09:12 AM)chync_imp Wrote: [ -> ]The Ohlins model I have are fully adjustable and one of the adjusters is at the top of the reservoir if mounted normally. Unfortunately the mounting bolts for the side grab rails do not provide enough clearance for the adjuster. The reservoir for this model is pressurized so Ohlins techs said they would function normally if mounted upside down so I swapped the mounting bushings between the top and bottom and inverted them.

Those same bolts for the grab rails are also required for the rear rack. If I didn’t use the rear rack I would just remove the grab rails and mount the shocks normally. I almost had a working solution by orienting the reservoirs toward the front of the bike in an upright orientation. Unfortunately the reservoir on the left side blocked access to the key hole for the seat lock. It was close. I almost cut the end off a key which would have just had enough clearance.

There are some other Ohlins reservoir bodies that sit much lower in relation to the upper mounting but they are not fully adjustable.


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I just realized the bike has changed a little since I posted the photo. The red matching front fender was added and I removed the rear fender.


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The snap showcases the bike's lump well.