The CB1100 Community Forum

Protecting the fork tubes from damage is a good thing to do. I am not a fan of the way gaiters look, so I added a set of plastic fork protectors. With weight on the bike, they should provide good protection on the areas of the fork tubes where the seals travel. They have split ring mounts so they clip right on with no disassembly.

I’ve put almost if not identical ones on my RS. Look spot on and fit was excellent. A no brainer really.

Same here. Very happy.

I like those, and the look, but I went the gaiter route.

They look good , where did you get them ?

(03-23-2021, 10:08 PM)apex1_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Protecting the fork tubes from damage is a good thing to do. I am not a fan of the way gaiters look, so I added a set of plastic fork protectors. With weight on the bike, they should provide good protection on the areas of the fork tubes where the seals travel. They have split ring mounts so they clip right on with no disassembly.

I guess 50% protection is better than no protection at all.

(03-24-2021, 01:58 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: [ -> ]They look good , where did you get them ?

I found them on ebay from a seller in the U.K. but they were the last ones at the time I bought them.

The 2nd option is make one yourself.
It can easily be home-made by using a 2" PCV coupling (Black Y or T ) from Home Depot.
Cut according to the width of the fork as required and Use a wide tie wrap to secure them on the forks.
It looks original and only costs less than $5.00 USD

Instructions:
1. Use masking to define the cut area.
2. Use a hack saw or dremmel to cut & discard as required.
2a. (Mine I added an angle at the base to reinforce rigidity - I did not cut it straight down to the base).
2b. To keep the "T" elbow piece stable during the cut, Insert a short piece of PVC pipe to hold the assembly on a vice.
2c. I use the thickness of the sliding telescopic fork tube as width sample.
3. After the cut, use a file to create a smooth finish along the cut.
4. Vertically cut across one end of the base ring (usually the rear end) so that the assembly can be pried open to fit on to the fork. (watch your fingers!!!)
4a. There will be a thin gap at the base after the piece is installed on to the fork
4b. This gap/split also serves as a drain channel in case of water accumulation.
5. Use a wide Tie-wrap to secure it on to the fork - makes it looks better than a thinner tie-wrap.

Note:
As an added value, I cut the 2 top corners/edges at an angle, personally I like the angle finish better compared to a 90 degree straight cut.
The PCV is soft material and caution is suggested when filing.
There is no need to take out the forks from the bike.

Good Luck.

. .

That is resourceful Alain.

Thanks GO