At that time, I think I was advised that all the CB1100 exhibit some clunking on off/on throttle, unless one 'rides around it' by feathering the clutch. I keep my chain lubed and adjusted per the book. It's not a problem, it just seems out of keeping with the overall quality feel of the rest of the bike. However, I was curious if any of the owners on the forum (or Honda) had come up with a fix.
Doubtful, I know, since it's probably in the primary drive or clutch pack.
Any thoughts?
Bob
I think it's two things, one is chain on this bike likes to be snug, unlike other bikes I've had. two: the throttle is snatchy. I've heard/read that Installing an O2 eliminator (a resistor) can soften snatchy throttle response
Hi Bob, the "play" you refer to is the engagement space between the "dogs" and the gearwheels, some of which are moving sideways on splines and others are stationary on the shaft.
The space "lash" between the dogs and the slots they engage in is required because the time involved to move the gearwheels sideways whilst rotating past each other, if there was no or very little space "lash" it would be a hard task to get the dogs to engage in the slots, so it's a compromise between easy shifting and gear "lash".
Some dogs have more teeth than others (
time for a joke here ) and the "lash" would be different for different gears, to try this out you could put the cb1100 on the centerstand and shift through some gears with the engine off to check the wheel for play by hand in the different gear positions.
The crankshaft is directly geared to the clutch and the clutch plates are engaged and together with the primary shaft and gears become part of the " flywheel ", so no play there.
The gear wheels themselves have minimal play on the splined shafts and the chain has some effect as have the rubber transmission dampers in the rear wheel, you can check those by moving the wheel back and forth in gear and look at the play between the outer and inner parts of the rear wheel hub ( the space behind the sprocket ), there should be minimal play there.
Here is a video that shows the inner workings and shortcomings of the gearbox and may provide some appreciation as to the delicate parts of the drum-shifter system;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nZjbMyIo8I
and another;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0mtwcaoXDo
Personally i tend to ride in second or third gear and freewheel with the clutch pulled in when the shudder becomes a bit much, it also sounds better for any " spectators ".
Also be aware thet the chain tightens some when you sit on the bike, if there is not enough play ( if i can push the chain up to just touch the end of the plastic guide i am happy ) the chain will tension up hard and wear out in a remarkable short time, hope this helps some
I get clunked if I am slow shifting and the revs have dropped. Usually happens in traffic when I am approaching a stopped car that suddenly scoots.
Thanks, all, for your responses.
Max, your explanation, combined with Kevin Cameron's video, is a classroom course in how shift dogs work, and the compromises that designers have to consider when designing a tranny.
Bob
I always keep my throttle cables adjusted with as little free-play as possible. A loose throttle can amplify shifting/chain slack imprecision.
Most chain drives employ rubber cushions/dampeners to absorb torque from sprocket to hub. With age/miles/hole shots they can "flatten".
Mine were fine when tires replaced at over 10,000 miles, but I rode mainly longer distances.
Might be worth checking
Max, great videos, thanks for sharing!
As the Ferret, I believe, has previously observed, dumping the throttle closed on a fuel injected machine can lead to snatchy feeling deceleration. Easing off throttle smoothly can help a lot.
Ben
My CB1100 EX kicks up a fuss in first or second gear when she is reigned in. Lots of popping from the mufflers and hobby horse riding. I could smooth it out tickling the clutch, but I do like that burbling sound.