(12-16-2021, 02:39 AM)andyferd_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Outback - I had the same issues with fitment. It was not great. I actually didn't even bolt up the mid pipe because the pipe was too short to connect to the collector with the bolt in. I think another member fab'd up a bracket to get it to work.
Basically, these are your options:
1. Bolt everything up how it's designed and risk an exhaust leak between the mid pipe and the collector because the pipes are too short.
2. Install everything without the mid pipe bolted up (You will see the mid pipe bracket about an inch in front of the CB bracket)
3. Fab up a custom bracket to get the mid pipe to bolt up with all the pipes in their proper places.
This is just what we have to deal with when we buy the cheapest exhaust.
thanks , Yep, just what i said to myself. Damm aftermarket parts! lol I tightened the head nuts down a little bit and it did seem to help a little bit but just mocking it up to see where to put the bung for the auto tune right now. Need to get some exhaust sealant for the head pipes and stick the collector back on with the springs and then tighten down and see where its at. and make a little bracket like you did.
(12-16-2021, 02:49 AM)mvk24_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Screw that id call delkevic and tell them it doesn't fit.
Is it possible its for a different model year or trim?
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
No im pretty shore i ordered the right one. Same little issue others have had with them.
(12-16-2021, 03:02 AM)misterprofessionality_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Oof. I went through this, and I had to do it twice! First I installed my delkevic end can on my stock headers, which took a very long time. Lots of "massaging and wiggling" as others have said. Then I had to take it off and do it again when I got my titanium headers. That was actually easier believe it or not. I did, however have a big problem with the clamp loosening and the muffler spinning on the pipe which caused me to go through two sets of carbon crush gaskets before Ordering one size smaller from delkevic and MASSIVELY torquing the clamp on with a hex head bolt and socket. After that everything was peachy but it was definitely an ordeal.
Tldr: you're not alone.
yep kinda did the same thing, i noticed when i pulled it back apart after installing the muffler to the stock head pipe, I had stripped the threads on the clamp, so i ordered a stronger one from dennis kerk, and those slippery crush gaskets dont help. I think i will drill a little hole and put a screw so the centerstand doesnt whack it out of shape over time hitting the stop. and im not checking to see if it has moved every time i get off of it.
I literally used to do exactly that....check if the muffler had turned every time I go off the bike. After about a year though it became clear to me that I had torqued the thing so much that I was never gonna move.
Progress on the full delkevic exhaust install. 2014 standard. I know its old stuff for most you guys but might be some helpful info for guys like me that are new to these bikes. As most of us know the delkevic full exhaust is not a perfect fit. After all the head pipe bolts were torqued down and the collector pipe all mounted and sealed up. The mounting hole on the pipe was 3/4" low and slightly short of the bracket with just a little bit of pressure pushing it up. Just close enough so the bolts and big mounting washer interfered with each other with a short little connector pc, so i drilled a new one below it on the pipe bracket and made a SS bracket to fit with out having to force the heck out of it to line it up and possibly cause leaks. Looks better too. Would have liked it to be tucked up in as far as possible but i guess it is what it is, its not that bad im just picky. lol
Seems like the centerstand stop could have been rotated up for a better fit too. So a little more reading and i found that you can buy a centerstand stop from yoshimura that bolts up to the bike with no mods. So i called yoshimura and ordered one this morning. Pretty happy about that, now i can cut the stop off the pipe and position it so theres not such a big gap between the pipe and the rear foot peg bracket. And not have to keep checking that the centerstand slapping the stop on the pipe hasnt spun it around and the chain isnt rubbing on the stand. Win Win! Also had my buddy weld in the bung for the auto tune, right beside the stock one that comes with it ,puts it at a nice angle up out of the way and plenty of room for the sensor and wires.
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Great work outback! Your modifications look way better than mine. I think you're really going to like the sound of that system and the power increase when you get the PCV and autotune installed.
Thanks andyferd, Hardest part for me was trying to figure out how to resize the pics and get them on my post.
Those pipes look pretty sharp lookin' outback.
Thought this might be interesting to you guys, Ive been doing a lot of reading about the stock 02 sensor and what to do with it when changing exhaust ect. I decided to ask the guys at dynojet and see what they recomend. I told them the year of the bike, and the modifications i made , ect. This is what they told me
Danny Boardman (Dynojet)
Jan 14, 2022, 10:37 AM PST
Greetings gary, thank you for your inquiry. We appreciate your interest and support for our products.
For the modern bikes with closed loop systems we have found in recent testing and analysis that most modern engines now have actually been designed to run at the leaner factory settings. In the closed loop area of the fuel curve we find they generally run better if the factory closed loop system is retained and not changed. That area is generally very low engine load conditions at the low rpm and throttle, so it does not require substantial fuel changes to run optimally like the high rpm, high throttle settings do. Due to this and ever tighter emissions regulations at the state and federal levels we now recommend the factory closed loop O2 sensor components be left connected, and if using our Auto Tune it would only make adjustments outside that area where they are truly needed for the high engine load conditions at higher rpm and throttle settings. Leaving the factory sensors in place and installing the Auto tune for fuel adjustments outside the closed loop area actually gives you the best overall compromise between fuel economy and power and performance when actually needed. You get maximum economy in the low rpm throttle range, and max power and performance in the high rpm, throttle range.
Powersports Technical Support
Dynojet Research, Inc.
Free: (800)992-4993
(01-07-2022, 05:53 AM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Those pipes look pretty sharp lookin' outback.
Thanks Goldoxide
