The CB1100 Community Forum

I had to look up dead blow hammers. What a great idea.

Normally i will use a sharp knife and work it out from the point where there is dowel pin. Trying to push and pry and hammer in using the knife at that point, might scratch a bit, but its on the outer area. Or if no dowel pin, will put in the screw loosely and work from the screw area. I do that to stop my knife from going too deep inside and damage the mating surface
and whatever components inside. But there are mechanic advice me from doing so as that area is weaker due to a hole there and i might actually break the cover near the screw hole.
If there is opening cap such as the crank position marking cover, i use a stopper kind of like screw sleeve or plastic tube and screw in the cap with the sleeve. it will push the cover out as the cap push in.

If you know where dowel pin(s) is placed, I would start from there, the most "sticky" point.

I'm still betting on ultrasonics.

Personally I think that BRUTE force is the answer , do not sweat the consequences .

Probably doesn’t help that its magnetically held too.

Remove any RLETs help?

I'd try some fishing line or thin wire around the joint, and add tension with a "tourniquet", so the line presses around the whole perimeter (well, it will miss concave areas). This should help opening a gap.

Geesh, guys!

Is it too expensive to do what I said WORKED for me. (As I mentioned...$3.49)

Seriously...SMH

I know it’s an old post, but putting this out there just in case anyone stumbles on it and needs the help…

Relative to right side cover (but assume the same is true on the left): DO NOT BEAT THE CRAP OUT OF THE COVER! Mallet, deadblow or otherwise. There are two guide pins on the inside that restrict the cover just popping off. Use a rubber mallet and tap around the edges to break the old liquid gasket seal and the grab the edges and pull toward you. Specific to the right side, don’t pull so hard that rip the cabling out