11-12-2019, 03:45 AM
11-12-2019, 07:04 AM
11-12-2019, 08:37 AM
(11-12-2019, 02:06 AM)Ulljanrich_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Hello and good evening,
my name is Thomas.
I am living in the Black Forest Mountains, and that is in South-West Germany.
In September I bought my CB 1100 RS with 0 km, completely new bike.
I did so although I was hesitating after having read an article in an german M/C magazine in MArch 2018. There they reported about the very poor headlight quality of the +2017 CB 1100 EX/RS.
In those days I had a BMW R9T Scrambler, a beautiful bike, that has way too much power for me and does not allow me to get that cruising feeling.
When I had the opportunity to test ride a 2017 CB 1100 RS, I became convinced immediately that this would be the ride feel I was looking for.
So, although I knew about the poor headlight quality, I traded my R9T for a new CB 1100 RS in beautiful mat grey colour.
First evening, I went for a ride, dry road, familiar road in my area here.
It was quite bad, poor light, big disappointment and 100% what I had heard before in tha magazine.
When I happened to drive on a wet road a few days later in the beginning evening, I felt as if I was driving blind. This time I became shocked and to my astonishement I lost quite all of my trust in this CB 1100.
Even the next days I felt insecure, although it was bright daytime. I could understand once more, how much of Motorcycle riding takes place in the mind only.
It became clear necessity to me then that I would have to change the headlight completely.
Now, that was a major project for me as I am not the best electrician.
I didnt want to cut any of the original wires. I decided to built my self an adapter for connecting between the 8pin Honda plug to the H4 3pin plug of the aftermarket premium LED headlight.
Also, I didnt want to change the original CB 1100 Design, keep it as it is without changes.
Yet, eventually I completed the task succesfully and in the attachment below I want to share with you guys of this very nice and helpful forum the beautiful nice new light output on my 2019 CB 1100 RS.
Compared to the stock light, it is simply superb.
The pictures have been taken on wet road in front of my house, aprox. 25 metres away from my neighbours garage.
Yes, the smartphone camera is somewhat too bright, but I can assure that the actual light output does feel quite the same way as depicted.
Please excuse my poor english grammar. I hope you good guys can understand my story
Hope you like it!
If technical info of the modification is wanted, I can provide that in detail of course.
Thomas
LO Light
HI Light
Hi Thomas U,
Congratulation
I also have a 2017 EX with poor LED headlight output (not enough lumens output).
Will you be kind enough to explain in more detail your modification, I am pretty sure that lots of 2017 and later CB1100 owners are interested.
Thanks
Alain
11-12-2019, 08:54 AM
Hi Thomas,
I am also very interested in your LED headlight conversion. Like you, I don't want to change the original setup, so it would be great to see how you managed to do this.
I am also very interested in your LED headlight conversion. Like you, I don't want to change the original setup, so it would be great to see how you managed to do this.
11-13-2019, 05:20 AM
11-13-2019, 07:11 AM
11-15-2019, 04:32 AM
Good evening, its weekend, and now I have some time to post here the long story of modifying my originally very poor CB 1100 RS headlight, Model year 2019.
I have posted this informations in the german CB 1100 Forum and now I put it into the google translator in order to provide it here in this english speaking Forum for all interested in the same mod.
Hm, the result of the goodle translation is not always very smooth but maybe you will understand.
If there are questions, please feel free to ask me.
Alltogether, there were three or four postings about the modification from my side.
I will put them here in the same order as they have been posted in the german forum.
After that, I will upload some pics, mixed pictures all about that project.
Here it will start with the first post, to which I received exactly 0 (zero) replies:
***
September 22nd, 2019
Hello and nice day together.
Since yesterday I have a beautiful CB 1100 RS from the model year 2019.
I am brand new here in the forum and have been reading the exciting articles for some time and I am pleased about the generally really good conversational tone. Is not everywhere so peaceful unfortunately.
Yesterday, I exchanged the new Honda 2019 for my BMW R9T from 2018 and now finally experience what I wanted: beautiful motorcycling and the feeling of steering a strong bike is still sufficient, yes, more than enough.
If this test of the headlights would not have been so devastating in early 2018, I would have made the change well sooner.
Honda Frankfurt has confirmed to me last week by mail that the LED headlights of the previous year were also installed in 2019, so there is still no improvement ex works. In Frankfurt one "regrets" that.
However, I have now purchased the CB1100 and am determined to actually install what can be done with LED lighting today (e.g., with a J.W. Speaker). Good light has to be easy. All my H4 headlights were clearly (!) Brighter, even the one on the Vespa GTS 300 is much brighter and even really good.
The bike, the Honda CB 1100 RS is for me and in my eyes actually almost perfect, and that is why the bad light hurts disproportionately bad.
Last night I did the first night trip, on a dry road.
And what should I say? Tears came to my eyes, whether with laughter or crying, the light is so bad. I do not think you have much to discuss, it is just too dark and the illumination has failed. Oh dear, what are they doing?
The image from the test report is very close to the perceived or seen reality.
My request to all experts here: yes there are several threads in the forum, which more or less respond to the subject.
Some of them planned to rebuild their headlights.
Exactly what I have now before and would like to return information after the work done here in this forum again.
My specific questions would be:
- How did you solve the problem with the 8 pin plug of the original headlight?
the accessory headlights, e.g. J.W. Speaker, yes plug and play for H4 halogen plug. How did you get the connection?
- were there any problems or error messages in the CB1100's Elktrik?
- how has the illumination improved?
- What can you say to the wiring harness, which strands are there for what?
- could the CB1100RS be restored to H4 again? When, how? Is the built-in alternator still strong enough for halogen light?
- Etc.
About all the information that is on the subject in the meantime, I would be very happy. The other thread here in the forum end somehow "unfinished", without a finished conversion would have been described.
And if there is even one or the other image, or links to more information, that would help me a lot, because then I do not have to start here at zero ...
So thank you in advance in advance and many greetings!
I am very excited to hear your good advice.
Thomas
P.S. Will these days also set a picture of my CB1100RS here in the gallery. Very nice motorcycle, I think, gray-chrome with some black ...
Now, here is a Picture of the Test in a german Motorcycle Magazine ("Tourenfahrer") in March 2018.
The headlights of 8 bikes have been checked.
Amongst were LED, Halogene, and the BMW 1600 with the Xenon.
Amazing thing, Honda had two Bikes in the test:
With their VFR 800 the had the best Halogene light (top right).
And with CB 1100 RS, they had the worst LED light (bottom left) and by far the worst light in the whole test.
The authors said they felt blind when they drove this bike with that LED light in the night.
Amazing thing, because Honda has a very good reputation for always beeing highend quality in their technologies.
This was true especially when it comes to security-relevant questions.
As far as my understanding goes, the quality of the headlight is most security-relevant and therefore I cannot understand until today what the guys at Honda were thinking when they constructed this light...
And: it is not at all a cheap headlight!
If you buy this Honda LED candle in the atremarket or as a spare, it will cost you more as the most expensive J.W. Speaker...
Here the Picture taken from the bike test magazine, bad quality, just to get you an impression:
Ok, here my second post, October 17th 2019.
To be honest, the google translation is funny, sometimes weird, sometimes ridiculous.
Please check it out
***
Hello everybody,
After a long preparation and thinking through, I was able to get a J.W. Speaker LED motorcycle headlights on my beautiful CB 1100 RS put into operation.
After my last entry, there was not a single suggestion, so I set out on my own.
The light is now really good, the joy is great, there is much of both and perhaps the most important is the successful illumination.
So lighting technology goes on the current state of the possible!
The high beam is "switched on", so then shine both lanterns. Grandiose light and far. Unseen so far, that. I knew only from Lupine mountain bike lanterns or headlamps from Bavaria, which I use since 2007 very often and like. Therefore, I am probably spoiled and can hardly endure anything worse than bad light.
The bright-dark-border of the speaker is very clean, glare of oncoming traffic should not be an issue.
An e-approval is available.
The light temperature is very pleasant, not as elusive blue-white as the original Honda light, but white-yellow LED light, really pleasant. Grass is green, not blue-white-pale.
Now I do not have the impression that it is a headlamp like one of these street tanks, which almost make you blind in oncoming traffic, even though they are officially "glare-free". I believe that they have developed a really good light in America, with J.W. Speaker.
Some modifications (mechanical) and adapters (electric) were needed, but now the project is very successful and I am pretty happy about a sensational good light. The headache and search has an end.
Oh yes, I've opted for adaptive headlights for the time being, even though I think it does not really fit with a bike like the CB 1000 RS. But that, I think, takes place only in the head: better than a lot of light is just more good light and when it comes down to it, I am in the matter of safety already a bit ready for concessions, I have found. So I've chosen the "most modern" light - with the back door of a deconstruction to "normal" light, so just just without the bells and whistles.
Is impressive first, the cornering light, but I do not want to allow a final judgment. Let's see ... probably you realize how good it was, when you do not have it anymore.
Anyway, tonight the streets were rain-wet, and the spotlight showed right, what good LED light can do.
I am very excited! Finally safe and seeing in the dark with the Honda be on the road!
Cost: unfortunately almost a whole (big) note [I mean Euro 1000], if you expect everything together, but no botched, but only first-class components. "May good light cost so much?", some may wonder. I answer this question very clearly for me: yes. A shame, that Honda has screwed as a candle light from the factory. If they had better left the halogen light, instead of the lousy LED light, that would have been the best anyway. The taillight they have indeed done in bright, and the LED turn signals are not so bad also.
All the stress I could have saved me then, just a better motorcycle-specific H4 from Osram or Phillips or so pure, and it would have been great. The electrical conversion was with the 8-pin connector of the RS now really no fun, and all without intervention on the original wiring harness in the already narrow headlight pot also a real strain. Ouch...
Greetings to all
Thomas
Next day, one guy wanted to know more information on the modification.
I took my time and answered in detail (October 18th 2019):
***
Here we go
Construction manual or parts overview and information on installing a J.W. Speaker (or other H4) headlight on the Honda CB 1100 RS from 2017
What you need:
1. Headlight with H4 connector, I took this here https://motodemic.com/shop/jw-speaker-7-...-adaptive/, but I could synonymous here https://motodemic.com/shop/evo-s-7-inch-led-headlight/ well imagine, then although no cornering light, but still a little brighter Hi beam lights.
2. Larger headlamp housing, because the original from Honda is too small (even the Polo headlamp from J.W. Speaker, for example, is too small for the many cables that are in there at Honda). I took one from Triumph. It's big enough, but lush space is something else. There are just too many cables in the Honda pot, I think ...
But it is somehow already, you need patience here.
On the following link you can see the triumph pot on a CB 1100 2013-2016, and you can see the dart mounts, which look different now, because they are no longer visible on the Honda since 2017 and are therefore much more filigree Act. Also, the material is now stainless steel, not as in the pictures (I mean to recognize) aluminum.
In the next few days I will show pictures of my remodeling, you will see the difference clearly. Here's the bigger pot:
https://motodemic.com/shop/cb1100-led-he...t-upgrade/
The ideas came from the website of the company Motodemic (Brackets, housing), the Speaker LED-headlight I already knew. Because the owner of motodemic company also patiently answered my questions, I bought the parts from him. Another advantage of buying in America: Motodemic has been cooperating with J.W. Speakers who demonstrably offer the best possible LEDs (= the latest generation), while on the export market (Louis, Polo, etc.) inventory goods are sold, not the newest generation of LED.
Who deals with LED light, knows the significant developmental leaps, that sometimes occurin the amount of light (nowadays not so much), but more often in the quality of the optics (= illumination), the optimization of diode cooling or performance (in my case = in the case of high beam, the cornering light continues to function).
Small, but for me in view of the unavoidable high cost of the project already important details. In the end, a hundred more or less here does not make the cabbage fat. Sounds as if I had the foreign exchange loose, but that's not the case. I just want to have nothing to do with the subject of headlights for the next 30 years, so in the end it had to be good, first class result was imperative.
So far, Motodemic has not tackled the problem with the electrical system for the 8 pin Honda plug of the 2017+ Models, so there was no known solution, so I had to work hard as an electric layman, not so funny.
3. Longer headlight brackets, for example, this one: https://dartflyscreens.eu/products/honda...arlin-2017
The deeper housing requires longer brackets. Here I did not want any "strange design holder" and then possibly mount this on the fork rails. That would have become too "customized" for me.
Please dont misunderstand me: I love the brackets available e.g. with motodemic, but my agenda was clear: to keep the original desiign as much as possible.
The company Dart has produced a first-class headlamp bracket, laser cut from the finest V2A, material far superior to the original Honda, and practically identical in design. Just perfect for the planned renovation.
Dart had to construct these brackets because otherwise the CB1100's physiognomy would not fit their windshields.
An the brackets have been developed for the "RS" models also, where the turn indicators needed an extra hole. Just beautiful!
By the way: I drive / drove darts small windshields for some time and on other motorcycles and wanted to have one anyway at the CB 1100, at the latest for this I would have to buy the "brackets", which there are single if necessary to buy fair course , After the Brexit then probably with duty surcharge ...
(Offtopic.Oh, you might have heard that Great Britain will leave the European Union. We will get the old borders soon again, and I didnt miss them for the last 20 years. What can be done. I have heard you guys in America also discuss to built some mor new borders in the south... borders everywhere. To me: strange development, offtopic end.)
These must then be further distanced with mounting on the original Honda recording with 5-10mm, which I have used washers of black plastic (industrial quality U-disks) from the local screw store.
Otherwise, the pot sits practically directly behind the frame, which works, but unnecessarily complicates a headlight height adjustment. This further distancing is not visible at all, as the current headlamp holders completely cover the spacers. very clean stuff so far.
4. M y a priori decision was like this: the original wiring harness is not touched, that was a decision and is a principle that has proven to me in the past often. One avoids problems and does not allow a botch. An adapter is made to connect any H4 headlamp.
To make the adapter you need
a) a Yazaki 8-pin plug as a counterpart to the factory plug to which the factory LED headlight is connected,
https://www.auto-click.co.uk/7282-2148-30
and for crimping the plug a suitable crimping tool in the version SN-48B for the tiny little contacts of the Yzaki plug (are in the above-mentioned supplier complete with the plug sent, also the silicone seals):
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B078SQF...UTF8&psc=1
Attention, take the right direction at the connector of the crimped contacts, look closely at the original Honda plug, then insert it. Stupid, you can also put them wrong, then the plug is useless. I paid apprenticeship here. My opinion: Constructive error, the pin should only be plugged in one direction, for stupid like me. But he is not, you can do it wrong (I stop).
b) a converter relay that converts minus to plus 12V. Why? The problem is the factory-side circuit of the headlight plug. It is switched to "ground", while the plus lines are constantly at 12V. It was new to me.
The problem is that a H4 plug, which I had to use here, just has only 1 mass, and twice plus 12V.
How should I switch the dipped beam and main beam separately?
A Led headlight can not be wired "the other way round", which is quite possible with a halogen H4, it does not matter whether 12V plus will arrive on its ground plug, and the mass lies on its positive plugs. He shines - although then with the dipped beam and high beam at the same time, which is not good - already, but for conversion to LED is simply useless and even dangerous, as you might "burn" the diodes, destroy them.
You can, if you know how to do it, sizzle a solution yourself. I can not do it and after understanding the technical problem I searched for a ready solution and found it here after receicing a hint from Brad from Motodemic:
[url=https://lumawerx.com/product/h4-9003-switching-ground-polarity-module]https://lumawerx.com/product/h4-9003-switching-ground-polarity-module
For me a kind of miracle that there is something like that. But I have nowhere found in D or EU, and the Alibaba I want to be a customer (until today). Also ordered in America. It's not a plug-and-play solution, but you're not that far from having one in your hands. Stretch.
Now you need - if you because it sets value - to assemble the appropriate adapter using "Yazaki plug" and "Ground Switching Module" only the color matching wire strands (colors of the original Honda cable harness).
Conrad article no. 1571111 indicates the right dimension:
https://www.conrad.de/de/p/tru-component...71111.html
Colors must be found in this electric shop, which seems to be a bottomless pit. The variety slays, you look for a part but can choose between a felt hundred variants. Not easy for me, well. The o.g. Litzy fits now but. I then, where necessary, imitated with color tape the color codes, so on a blue cable a little white tape glued on it = blue-white wire.
Note: the Yazaki plug requires very thin diametres, which are also used by Honda in the original: 0.25 mm². Otherwise, the pins will not fit on the strands, and the strands will not fit into the connector. Paid lesson again, I at the place, first crimped to thick strands, pins gone, had to start again from the beginning.
5. You will need he usual tools, cables, solder joints, solder, soldering iron (I've "refined" the crimped contacts with a drop of "Radiolo"t, wire stripper, electro pliers, other pliers, Inbuse, open-end wrench, screw lock, LED test light, etc., just everything you need to work on screws and electrical parts.
And: a lot of time and rest. Time to think. The conversion here and there requires a steady hand, e.g. Crimping the Yazaki connector. And thinking: is that all right now?
I got several test leads with alligator clips to check before the completion of my adapter, the proper function of the construct, and voila, it worked.
Annotation.
The goal was not to win the Classic Design Award.
I just wanted to have good light, the bike essentially does not change.
I would have liked to get a great deal of light from Honda when I bought it, but it just did not exist. I received a very bad light from Honda.
It is clear that one could discuss anyway, if such a motorcycle "needs" an LED light. But it is an therotecial discussion, as the CB 1100 RS comes with and LED light anyways.
So the aim was to be able to install any H4 light while maintaining the factory design with as few changes as possible (visually and technically), in my case still an LED light, one with excellent performance.
Why am I constantly talking about H4 light? Because all useful (and useless) aftermarket motorcycle headlights come with H4 plugs.
As mentioned in the post before, I would have been quite satisfied with a "normal" good halogen light, because the HONDA Led headlight does not deserve its name, an euphemism in the context.
But an LED lantern that actually puts a lot of light on the road, instead of dazzling or focusing on a single small spot, has - in terms of light - in wet conditions, in daylight as daytime running lights, in terms of longevity (in any case, is rumored ) and the power consumption only benefits. The success of a design is ultimately in the eye of the beholder, at least to a significant extent. That's why I do not like to say anything universal about it.
I like it, and that good enough for me.
I stress that I speak of a high quality LED light. The market is producing a lot, but only a smaller part of it is good enough:
[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peFLmu2MfTg&t=591s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peFLmu2MfTg&t=591s
In the linked video you can see the light temperature of the J.W. Speaker impressively, it differs clearly from other LED lanterns, it is very similar to the white-yellow light of a high-tech H4 bulb felt, and thus provides "despite" LED also a classic light appearance, if you can say so.
I would not want to have a bad LED headlight, because even a bad halogen headlamp, which is used with such a first-class H4 bulb, can never reach the water in terms of illumination and homogeneity of the light cone.
My motto: if you no longer feel like driving around an ice-cold LED sword, which resembles a thin and dazzling laser, but simply sees bright headlights in front of you, then it is good and successful. That's the case in my case, especially because of the illumination quality and the "color" of the emitted light. Ideally, I do not even want to think about the topic when driving, but just want to see and be seen well.
Yes, I often drive in the dark during the year, that's the way it is and made the upgrade thing so indispensable to me.
Notes on Honda cable documentation (color code) on the factory wiring harness follow in another post. Honda Germany provided me with a circuit diagram as pdf after some back and forth and at the same time a very longtime engineer admitted that he did not know how to get out of this circuit diagram with regard to the headlight and the 8-pole connector installed there.
That did not feel good for me, because "who, if not him should understand it", so my thought, should it know? Disillusionment.
At the time I had already outlined myself a "circuit diagram" and knew the cable assignment, but without being able to conclude. I can not draw myself something like that anyway as I am not an electrician.
One concern was always that in case of doubt, there would be no free shot. This means: what if it does not take the fuse in case of a potential faulty connection, but instead burns the headlight internally? That would be a total loss in the renovation project, with unacceptable loss costs. Well, the thing had to be understood and done right.
The manufacturer of the headlamp, Stanley in Japan, has responded to my E-Mail request: nice understanding of my displeasure and told me to build the headlamps strictly according to the specifications of the vehicle manufacturer and I should therefore turn with my concern directly to Honda, because this specifications information are disclosed and not public...
Last word for this post, I like that new bright light design-wise also, as it is now. It fits easily to the discreetly modern-sporty approach of the RS variant, looks consistent and not overdressed on the bike. The appearance of the bike has hardly changed noticeably, and if the key is turned on, then it's just great what's coming out in front. Looking forward to the next evening round, I want to get an even clearer picture and take some pictures.
Best regards
Thomas
And then, eventually, I had to describe the wiring of the original Honda 8-Pin plug:
***
For the assignment of the Yazaki connector, with which the headlight of the CB 1100 RS is connected ex factory, the following information:
The 8-pin connector has the following cables
3x green = earth
Blue-black (earth) (cable "high beam on" for instrument / balues control light "high beam on")
Blue-White (earth) switch to high beam on
2xBlack red, of which 1x 12V ignition plus Ablendlicht and 12V Zündungsplus high beam
Black = ignition plus 12V position light
How the strands are switched:
Low beam on
- green / green / green / blue-black (one earth = green is for the position light)
+ black-red / black-red / (black for position light)
High beam (additional) on
- green / green / green / blue-black / blue-white (also here: one earth = green for the position light)
+ black-red / black-red / (black for position light)
Best regards
Thomas
Here the wiring diagramm from Honda CB 1100 RS regarding headlight:
I have posted this informations in the german CB 1100 Forum and now I put it into the google translator in order to provide it here in this english speaking Forum for all interested in the same mod.
Hm, the result of the goodle translation is not always very smooth but maybe you will understand.
If there are questions, please feel free to ask me.
Alltogether, there were three or four postings about the modification from my side.
I will put them here in the same order as they have been posted in the german forum.
After that, I will upload some pics, mixed pictures all about that project.
Here it will start with the first post, to which I received exactly 0 (zero) replies:
***
September 22nd, 2019
Hello and nice day together.
Since yesterday I have a beautiful CB 1100 RS from the model year 2019.
I am brand new here in the forum and have been reading the exciting articles for some time and I am pleased about the generally really good conversational tone. Is not everywhere so peaceful unfortunately.
Yesterday, I exchanged the new Honda 2019 for my BMW R9T from 2018 and now finally experience what I wanted: beautiful motorcycling and the feeling of steering a strong bike is still sufficient, yes, more than enough.
If this test of the headlights would not have been so devastating in early 2018, I would have made the change well sooner.
Honda Frankfurt has confirmed to me last week by mail that the LED headlights of the previous year were also installed in 2019, so there is still no improvement ex works. In Frankfurt one "regrets" that.
However, I have now purchased the CB1100 and am determined to actually install what can be done with LED lighting today (e.g., with a J.W. Speaker). Good light has to be easy. All my H4 headlights were clearly (!) Brighter, even the one on the Vespa GTS 300 is much brighter and even really good.
The bike, the Honda CB 1100 RS is for me and in my eyes actually almost perfect, and that is why the bad light hurts disproportionately bad.
Last night I did the first night trip, on a dry road.
And what should I say? Tears came to my eyes, whether with laughter or crying, the light is so bad. I do not think you have much to discuss, it is just too dark and the illumination has failed. Oh dear, what are they doing?
The image from the test report is very close to the perceived or seen reality.
My request to all experts here: yes there are several threads in the forum, which more or less respond to the subject.
Some of them planned to rebuild their headlights.
Exactly what I have now before and would like to return information after the work done here in this forum again.
My specific questions would be:
- How did you solve the problem with the 8 pin plug of the original headlight?
the accessory headlights, e.g. J.W. Speaker, yes plug and play for H4 halogen plug. How did you get the connection?
- were there any problems or error messages in the CB1100's Elktrik?
- how has the illumination improved?
- What can you say to the wiring harness, which strands are there for what?
- could the CB1100RS be restored to H4 again? When, how? Is the built-in alternator still strong enough for halogen light?
- Etc.
About all the information that is on the subject in the meantime, I would be very happy. The other thread here in the forum end somehow "unfinished", without a finished conversion would have been described.
And if there is even one or the other image, or links to more information, that would help me a lot, because then I do not have to start here at zero ...
So thank you in advance in advance and many greetings!
I am very excited to hear your good advice.
Thomas
P.S. Will these days also set a picture of my CB1100RS here in the gallery. Very nice motorcycle, I think, gray-chrome with some black ...
Now, here is a Picture of the Test in a german Motorcycle Magazine ("Tourenfahrer") in March 2018.
The headlights of 8 bikes have been checked.
Amongst were LED, Halogene, and the BMW 1600 with the Xenon.
Amazing thing, Honda had two Bikes in the test:
With their VFR 800 the had the best Halogene light (top right).
And with CB 1100 RS, they had the worst LED light (bottom left) and by far the worst light in the whole test.
The authors said they felt blind when they drove this bike with that LED light in the night.
Amazing thing, because Honda has a very good reputation for always beeing highend quality in their technologies.
This was true especially when it comes to security-relevant questions.
As far as my understanding goes, the quality of the headlight is most security-relevant and therefore I cannot understand until today what the guys at Honda were thinking when they constructed this light...
And: it is not at all a cheap headlight!
If you buy this Honda LED candle in the atremarket or as a spare, it will cost you more as the most expensive J.W. Speaker...
Here the Picture taken from the bike test magazine, bad quality, just to get you an impression:
Ok, here my second post, October 17th 2019.
To be honest, the google translation is funny, sometimes weird, sometimes ridiculous.
Please check it out
***
Hello everybody,
After a long preparation and thinking through, I was able to get a J.W. Speaker LED motorcycle headlights on my beautiful CB 1100 RS put into operation.
After my last entry, there was not a single suggestion, so I set out on my own.
The light is now really good, the joy is great, there is much of both and perhaps the most important is the successful illumination.
So lighting technology goes on the current state of the possible!
The high beam is "switched on", so then shine both lanterns. Grandiose light and far. Unseen so far, that. I knew only from Lupine mountain bike lanterns or headlamps from Bavaria, which I use since 2007 very often and like. Therefore, I am probably spoiled and can hardly endure anything worse than bad light.
The bright-dark-border of the speaker is very clean, glare of oncoming traffic should not be an issue.
An e-approval is available.
The light temperature is very pleasant, not as elusive blue-white as the original Honda light, but white-yellow LED light, really pleasant. Grass is green, not blue-white-pale.
Now I do not have the impression that it is a headlamp like one of these street tanks, which almost make you blind in oncoming traffic, even though they are officially "glare-free". I believe that they have developed a really good light in America, with J.W. Speaker.
Some modifications (mechanical) and adapters (electric) were needed, but now the project is very successful and I am pretty happy about a sensational good light. The headache and search has an end.
Oh yes, I've opted for adaptive headlights for the time being, even though I think it does not really fit with a bike like the CB 1000 RS. But that, I think, takes place only in the head: better than a lot of light is just more good light and when it comes down to it, I am in the matter of safety already a bit ready for concessions, I have found. So I've chosen the "most modern" light - with the back door of a deconstruction to "normal" light, so just just without the bells and whistles.
Is impressive first, the cornering light, but I do not want to allow a final judgment. Let's see ... probably you realize how good it was, when you do not have it anymore.
Anyway, tonight the streets were rain-wet, and the spotlight showed right, what good LED light can do.
I am very excited! Finally safe and seeing in the dark with the Honda be on the road!
Cost: unfortunately almost a whole (big) note [I mean Euro 1000], if you expect everything together, but no botched, but only first-class components. "May good light cost so much?", some may wonder. I answer this question very clearly for me: yes. A shame, that Honda has screwed as a candle light from the factory. If they had better left the halogen light, instead of the lousy LED light, that would have been the best anyway. The taillight they have indeed done in bright, and the LED turn signals are not so bad also.
All the stress I could have saved me then, just a better motorcycle-specific H4 from Osram or Phillips or so pure, and it would have been great. The electrical conversion was with the 8-pin connector of the RS now really no fun, and all without intervention on the original wiring harness in the already narrow headlight pot also a real strain. Ouch...
Greetings to all
Thomas
Next day, one guy wanted to know more information on the modification.
I took my time and answered in detail (October 18th 2019):
***
Here we go
Construction manual or parts overview and information on installing a J.W. Speaker (or other H4) headlight on the Honda CB 1100 RS from 2017
What you need:
1. Headlight with H4 connector, I took this here https://motodemic.com/shop/jw-speaker-7-...-adaptive/, but I could synonymous here https://motodemic.com/shop/evo-s-7-inch-led-headlight/ well imagine, then although no cornering light, but still a little brighter Hi beam lights.
2. Larger headlamp housing, because the original from Honda is too small (even the Polo headlamp from J.W. Speaker, for example, is too small for the many cables that are in there at Honda). I took one from Triumph. It's big enough, but lush space is something else. There are just too many cables in the Honda pot, I think ...
But it is somehow already, you need patience here.
On the following link you can see the triumph pot on a CB 1100 2013-2016, and you can see the dart mounts, which look different now, because they are no longer visible on the Honda since 2017 and are therefore much more filigree Act. Also, the material is now stainless steel, not as in the pictures (I mean to recognize) aluminum.
In the next few days I will show pictures of my remodeling, you will see the difference clearly. Here's the bigger pot:
https://motodemic.com/shop/cb1100-led-he...t-upgrade/
The ideas came from the website of the company Motodemic (Brackets, housing), the Speaker LED-headlight I already knew. Because the owner of motodemic company also patiently answered my questions, I bought the parts from him. Another advantage of buying in America: Motodemic has been cooperating with J.W. Speakers who demonstrably offer the best possible LEDs (= the latest generation), while on the export market (Louis, Polo, etc.) inventory goods are sold, not the newest generation of LED.
Who deals with LED light, knows the significant developmental leaps, that sometimes occurin the amount of light (nowadays not so much), but more often in the quality of the optics (= illumination), the optimization of diode cooling or performance (in my case = in the case of high beam, the cornering light continues to function).
Small, but for me in view of the unavoidable high cost of the project already important details. In the end, a hundred more or less here does not make the cabbage fat. Sounds as if I had the foreign exchange loose, but that's not the case. I just want to have nothing to do with the subject of headlights for the next 30 years, so in the end it had to be good, first class result was imperative.
So far, Motodemic has not tackled the problem with the electrical system for the 8 pin Honda plug of the 2017+ Models, so there was no known solution, so I had to work hard as an electric layman, not so funny.
3. Longer headlight brackets, for example, this one: https://dartflyscreens.eu/products/honda...arlin-2017
The deeper housing requires longer brackets. Here I did not want any "strange design holder" and then possibly mount this on the fork rails. That would have become too "customized" for me.
Please dont misunderstand me: I love the brackets available e.g. with motodemic, but my agenda was clear: to keep the original desiign as much as possible.
The company Dart has produced a first-class headlamp bracket, laser cut from the finest V2A, material far superior to the original Honda, and practically identical in design. Just perfect for the planned renovation.
Dart had to construct these brackets because otherwise the CB1100's physiognomy would not fit their windshields.
An the brackets have been developed for the "RS" models also, where the turn indicators needed an extra hole. Just beautiful!
By the way: I drive / drove darts small windshields for some time and on other motorcycles and wanted to have one anyway at the CB 1100, at the latest for this I would have to buy the "brackets", which there are single if necessary to buy fair course , After the Brexit then probably with duty surcharge ...
(Offtopic.Oh, you might have heard that Great Britain will leave the European Union. We will get the old borders soon again, and I didnt miss them for the last 20 years. What can be done. I have heard you guys in America also discuss to built some mor new borders in the south... borders everywhere. To me: strange development, offtopic end.)
These must then be further distanced with mounting on the original Honda recording with 5-10mm, which I have used washers of black plastic (industrial quality U-disks) from the local screw store.
Otherwise, the pot sits practically directly behind the frame, which works, but unnecessarily complicates a headlight height adjustment. This further distancing is not visible at all, as the current headlamp holders completely cover the spacers. very clean stuff so far.
4. M y a priori decision was like this: the original wiring harness is not touched, that was a decision and is a principle that has proven to me in the past often. One avoids problems and does not allow a botch. An adapter is made to connect any H4 headlamp.
To make the adapter you need
a) a Yazaki 8-pin plug as a counterpart to the factory plug to which the factory LED headlight is connected,
https://www.auto-click.co.uk/7282-2148-30
and for crimping the plug a suitable crimping tool in the version SN-48B for the tiny little contacts of the Yzaki plug (are in the above-mentioned supplier complete with the plug sent, also the silicone seals):
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B078SQF...UTF8&psc=1
Attention, take the right direction at the connector of the crimped contacts, look closely at the original Honda plug, then insert it. Stupid, you can also put them wrong, then the plug is useless. I paid apprenticeship here. My opinion: Constructive error, the pin should only be plugged in one direction, for stupid like me. But he is not, you can do it wrong (I stop).
b) a converter relay that converts minus to plus 12V. Why? The problem is the factory-side circuit of the headlight plug. It is switched to "ground", while the plus lines are constantly at 12V. It was new to me.
The problem is that a H4 plug, which I had to use here, just has only 1 mass, and twice plus 12V.
How should I switch the dipped beam and main beam separately?
A Led headlight can not be wired "the other way round", which is quite possible with a halogen H4, it does not matter whether 12V plus will arrive on its ground plug, and the mass lies on its positive plugs. He shines - although then with the dipped beam and high beam at the same time, which is not good - already, but for conversion to LED is simply useless and even dangerous, as you might "burn" the diodes, destroy them.
You can, if you know how to do it, sizzle a solution yourself. I can not do it and after understanding the technical problem I searched for a ready solution and found it here after receicing a hint from Brad from Motodemic:
[url=https://lumawerx.com/product/h4-9003-switching-ground-polarity-module]https://lumawerx.com/product/h4-9003-switching-ground-polarity-module
For me a kind of miracle that there is something like that. But I have nowhere found in D or EU, and the Alibaba I want to be a customer (until today). Also ordered in America. It's not a plug-and-play solution, but you're not that far from having one in your hands. Stretch.
Now you need - if you because it sets value - to assemble the appropriate adapter using "Yazaki plug" and "Ground Switching Module" only the color matching wire strands (colors of the original Honda cable harness).
Conrad article no. 1571111 indicates the right dimension:
https://www.conrad.de/de/p/tru-component...71111.html
Colors must be found in this electric shop, which seems to be a bottomless pit. The variety slays, you look for a part but can choose between a felt hundred variants. Not easy for me, well. The o.g. Litzy fits now but. I then, where necessary, imitated with color tape the color codes, so on a blue cable a little white tape glued on it = blue-white wire.
Note: the Yazaki plug requires very thin diametres, which are also used by Honda in the original: 0.25 mm². Otherwise, the pins will not fit on the strands, and the strands will not fit into the connector. Paid lesson again, I at the place, first crimped to thick strands, pins gone, had to start again from the beginning.
5. You will need he usual tools, cables, solder joints, solder, soldering iron (I've "refined" the crimped contacts with a drop of "Radiolo"t, wire stripper, electro pliers, other pliers, Inbuse, open-end wrench, screw lock, LED test light, etc., just everything you need to work on screws and electrical parts.
And: a lot of time and rest. Time to think. The conversion here and there requires a steady hand, e.g. Crimping the Yazaki connector. And thinking: is that all right now?
I got several test leads with alligator clips to check before the completion of my adapter, the proper function of the construct, and voila, it worked.
Annotation.
The goal was not to win the Classic Design Award.
I just wanted to have good light, the bike essentially does not change.
I would have liked to get a great deal of light from Honda when I bought it, but it just did not exist. I received a very bad light from Honda.
It is clear that one could discuss anyway, if such a motorcycle "needs" an LED light. But it is an therotecial discussion, as the CB 1100 RS comes with and LED light anyways.
So the aim was to be able to install any H4 light while maintaining the factory design with as few changes as possible (visually and technically), in my case still an LED light, one with excellent performance.
Why am I constantly talking about H4 light? Because all useful (and useless) aftermarket motorcycle headlights come with H4 plugs.
As mentioned in the post before, I would have been quite satisfied with a "normal" good halogen light, because the HONDA Led headlight does not deserve its name, an euphemism in the context.
But an LED lantern that actually puts a lot of light on the road, instead of dazzling or focusing on a single small spot, has - in terms of light - in wet conditions, in daylight as daytime running lights, in terms of longevity (in any case, is rumored ) and the power consumption only benefits. The success of a design is ultimately in the eye of the beholder, at least to a significant extent. That's why I do not like to say anything universal about it.
I like it, and that good enough for me.
I stress that I speak of a high quality LED light. The market is producing a lot, but only a smaller part of it is good enough:
[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peFLmu2MfTg&t=591s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peFLmu2MfTg&t=591s
In the linked video you can see the light temperature of the J.W. Speaker impressively, it differs clearly from other LED lanterns, it is very similar to the white-yellow light of a high-tech H4 bulb felt, and thus provides "despite" LED also a classic light appearance, if you can say so.
I would not want to have a bad LED headlight, because even a bad halogen headlamp, which is used with such a first-class H4 bulb, can never reach the water in terms of illumination and homogeneity of the light cone.
My motto: if you no longer feel like driving around an ice-cold LED sword, which resembles a thin and dazzling laser, but simply sees bright headlights in front of you, then it is good and successful. That's the case in my case, especially because of the illumination quality and the "color" of the emitted light. Ideally, I do not even want to think about the topic when driving, but just want to see and be seen well.
Yes, I often drive in the dark during the year, that's the way it is and made the upgrade thing so indispensable to me.
Notes on Honda cable documentation (color code) on the factory wiring harness follow in another post. Honda Germany provided me with a circuit diagram as pdf after some back and forth and at the same time a very longtime engineer admitted that he did not know how to get out of this circuit diagram with regard to the headlight and the 8-pole connector installed there.
That did not feel good for me, because "who, if not him should understand it", so my thought, should it know? Disillusionment.
At the time I had already outlined myself a "circuit diagram" and knew the cable assignment, but without being able to conclude. I can not draw myself something like that anyway as I am not an electrician.
One concern was always that in case of doubt, there would be no free shot. This means: what if it does not take the fuse in case of a potential faulty connection, but instead burns the headlight internally? That would be a total loss in the renovation project, with unacceptable loss costs. Well, the thing had to be understood and done right.
The manufacturer of the headlamp, Stanley in Japan, has responded to my E-Mail request: nice understanding of my displeasure and told me to build the headlamps strictly according to the specifications of the vehicle manufacturer and I should therefore turn with my concern directly to Honda, because this specifications information are disclosed and not public...
Last word for this post, I like that new bright light design-wise also, as it is now. It fits easily to the discreetly modern-sporty approach of the RS variant, looks consistent and not overdressed on the bike. The appearance of the bike has hardly changed noticeably, and if the key is turned on, then it's just great what's coming out in front. Looking forward to the next evening round, I want to get an even clearer picture and take some pictures.
Best regards
Thomas
And then, eventually, I had to describe the wiring of the original Honda 8-Pin plug:
***
For the assignment of the Yazaki connector, with which the headlight of the CB 1100 RS is connected ex factory, the following information:
The 8-pin connector has the following cables
3x green = earth
Blue-black (earth) (cable "high beam on" for instrument / balues control light "high beam on")
Blue-White (earth) switch to high beam on
2xBlack red, of which 1x 12V ignition plus Ablendlicht and 12V Zündungsplus high beam
Black = ignition plus 12V position light
How the strands are switched:
Low beam on
- green / green / green / blue-black (one earth = green is for the position light)
+ black-red / black-red / (black for position light)
High beam (additional) on
- green / green / green / blue-black / blue-white (also here: one earth = green for the position light)
+ black-red / black-red / (black for position light)
Best regards
Thomas
Here the wiring diagramm from Honda CB 1100 RS regarding headlight:
11-15-2019, 05:35 AM
11-15-2019, 06:03 AM
Wow, Thomas, this is an extremely impressive detailed description. Very nice!! I am sure it will be very helpful for some of the forum members. For me, unfortunately I realised this is not for an option after reading the price tag: EUR 1000. And anyway, I am "lucky" to have a good old-fashioned H4 bulb on my 2016 bike.
11-15-2019, 11:15 AM