I'm installing a PVC and auto tune sensor
Have tank up but the quick disconnect is plastic n I don't want to break it. Van see a metal ring inside. Not sure if that has to come off to get fuel line disconnected .
[ul] [li]Pull and release the rubber cap from the retainer.[/li] [li]Hold the connector with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs with the other hand to release them from the locking pals.[/li] [li]Pull the connector off, then remove the rubber cap and retainer from the fuel joint.[/li] [li]If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily.
[/li][/ul]
It also says to relieve the fuel pressure before doing that:
[ul] [li]Turn ignition switch OFF.[/li] [li]Remove left side cover.[/li] [li]Disconnect the fuel pump 3P (black) connector.[/li] [li]Turn the ignition switch ON, start the engine, and let it idle until the engine stalls.[/li] [li]Turn the ignition switch OFF.[/li] [li]Disconnect the battery negative cable.
[/li][/ul]
For stuff like this, you should probably invest the $65 or whatever it is in the shop manual. It's well worth it.
Thx az bob
I really should get a Manuel.
That release is tricky.
Prob would've broke it w out your response.
Now onto that PVC
I thought I'd never get that connector off and the manual warns do not use pliers. When it was time to put it back, I got ready to do battle and --snic, done. WTH? That's it? No leaks, all was good.
(03-28-2014, 10:54 PM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I thought I'd never get that connector off and the manual warns do not use pliers. When it was time to put it back, I got ready to do battle and --snic, done. WTH? That's it? No leaks, all was good.
Same thing happened to me. Fight it for 20 minutes and suddendly it pops off.