(08-09-2014, 10:34 PM)Houtman_imp Wrote: [ -> ]It is all easy to change your self but if you do not have the tools and a torque wrench and do not want to do a lot of servicing your self in the future than just pay the price and enjoy the bike.
I try to do most of the things myself but sometimes you need an better mechanic than you are your self.
A few weeks ago I had a carb problem with my 94 CB 1000 (run too strong carb cleaner thru the tank, BG 44 K)
Could not get it to run right and after $602 repair bill from great Honda mechanic, including parts , it now runs perfect again.
It was worth spending the $$$$.
Know your limitations !
I have tons of tools but just dont have the chain tool but found out today one of my buds has one that will let me borrow so Im doing it. If I get into trouble he will help me an is a great mechanic.
I know what your saying though. One time I took sportster down to my local indy mechanic pretty much in a cardboard box to have them reassemble.
When you grind the pins off the old link and put the new master on, have it around on the rear sprocket to hold it in position while you're working. Attach the end of the new chain to the end of the old with the old master and some tape or wire and thread it around the front sprocket pulling with the old chain. With a good set of calipers, measure the overall width across the new chain side plates and as you press on the new master, keep checking the width until it is the same as the rest of the chain. Dont over- stake the pins on the new master. The new chain specs should give what the diameter of swaged out pins should be......maybe around .010-.012 in. bigger dia than the pin was to start with. Some staking tools have a built in ridge on the mandrel that will stop you before you go too far.
Gentlemen, I sincerely appreciate all of the advice given here. Everything is buttoned back up and the install went pretty smooth. I did every bit of it myself. Tough getting the axle back through the spacers and hub by yourself but I managed.
I did made one error. Pulled up to the first stop sign and had no rear brakes.
That was an easy fix of course. Rode about 30 miles and it seems much smoother. My chain and rear sprocket were really worn bad but the front seem to still be in decent condition which makes no sense to me.
Anyway, I did not wipe the grease off the new chain. I assume it was on there for a reason. Didnt appear to fling off anywhere after riding it. And I am on the loose side of spec which seems to make it shift much better also.
Dumb question, but is there some kind of tool that helps you make sure you have the wheel back exactly the same on both sides if that makes any sense?
Tape measure. Measure from center of swingarm pivot to center of axle on each side. Should measure the same.
For putting the axle and collars in by yourself, take a tapered 2x4 and slide it under wheel as you lift it up until the holes all line up and let board hold the wheel for you while you slide in the axle and line up the spacers.
(08-21-2014, 01:08 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Tape measure. Measure from center of swingarm pivot to center of axle on each side. Should measure the same.
For putting the axle and collars in by yourself, take a tapered 2x4 and slide it under wheel as you lift it up until the holes all line up and let board hold the wheel for you while you slide in the axle and line up the spacers.
THe 2x4 I used was my foot in this case but it never dawned on me at the time that would have worked. Appreciate the tip. Center stand is just invaluable for a task like this. Could not have done it without it.
If you remember, the 750s have marks along the side for adjustment and I got them as close as I could but I will be pulling out a tape measure Friday to double check. Appreciate the advice.
The marks are probably good enough, and honestly thats what I use, some some people are more anal than that and want it to be precise. The tape is one way to be precise..sort of lol
From a tip from a member on this forum to use a special thickness board; I grabbed a piece of 15/16 thick birch I had laying around. Perfect for lining up and supporting the rear wheel.
To make sure the rear wheel is centered, the preferred method is a long straight edge placed against the rear tire, when the rear tire is aligned properly it will be parallel with the front tire (must be a long straight edge so it reaches the front of the front tire). This method will ignore any frame errors since you'll end up with a rear tire that tracks the front. I tend to just eye ball it but as I get older this is harder to justify as good enough. sigh
(08-21-2014, 09:33 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: [ -> ]The marks are probably good enough, and honestly thats what I use, some some people are more anal than that and want it to be precise. The tape is one way to be precise..sort of lol
I use the marks as a starting point, then sight down the chain with the chain guard removed for fine adjustment.
For reinstalling the wheel, I am also from the "foot" school of thought. A wedged 2x4 would probably work better, but that would mean I'd have to either make one, then remember where it is when I need it. My foot is always handy (footie?).