The CB1100 Community Forum

Today was a service day on my bike as it was due for an oil change. Right now it sits at 16,458 miles.



I have already done tutes on doing the 600 mile service of the 13 and the 14 dlx

[url=http://www.cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=202]http://www.cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=202

http://www.cb1100forum.com/forum/showthr...p?tid=2708

but while doing todays service, I took some additional pics I thought would be helpful to other forum members. Like I said the oil filter change has been covered before so I won't repeat that, but

EVAP TUBES

Whenever you do a service on your bike, there are two emissions evap tubes that need to be checked. One is down by the side stand on the lower left side of the motorcycle. When I checked it today it was clear. I have never actually found any fluid in this tube on my 1100, but I had to drain the tube on my 750 Nighthawk fairly often.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20011_zps4r4wdpgq.jpg.html]

However the drain tube near the bottom of the air box had fluid in in today, so I squeezed the spring clamp and removed the whole tube, rather than trying to drain it at the plugged end (tight fit between motor block, air cleaner and fi bodies and that bottom clamp and plug are TIGHT and hard to remove) and poured the fluid out. Then replaced the tube and the spring clamp. This was covered in the first 600 miles service tute, but today I could actually show some of the fluid that collects.


[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20008_zpsiswe34j1.jpg.html]

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20010_zpsyipatpnz.jpg.html]

BTW...This is the second time I have found some fluid in this tube.

CONDENSATION DRAIN HOLES

After changing the oil, I fired it up, made sure the oil light on the dash went out, which it did in less than a second, and verified condensation was dripping out of the drain holes in both pipes (on a dlx model), as evidenced by the puddles on the cardboard protecting the garage floor. These drain holes should be free and clear allowing moisture to escape and prevent rusting of the pipes from the inside. Someone had commented on this before (Chapomis?) so thought I would show the drain holes and the amount of fluid that can drip out)

drain hole

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20005_zpsu8zh33vd.jpg.html]

left pipe

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20012_zps3lh7vgh7.jpg.html]

right pipe

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20013_zpsonnzdapn.jpg.html]

OIL LEVEL

After a 4 minute warm up I shut it off, let it drain for 4 minutes and then checked the level. Right at the top line as you can see in the photo below. Now, as per my usual practice I had drained 4 ounces of oil into a cup from a fresh gallon of Honda GN4 10W 30, and had put the rest in the motor. So, I used 3 qts 28 oz of oil. Honda calls for 4.1 qts when changing the oil and filter. If I use a whole gallon my oil is over filled as evidenced by completely covering the site glass. So I start with less.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20007_zpslcpao9lu.jpg.html]

After I take it for a ride, I will pop it on the center stand in the same place, again let it sit for 4 or 5 mins, then check the oil level again. If it is low, I will add one ounce at a time keeping it level with the line on the side of the motor case. *Note others have used a whole gallon and been right at the line. Not sure why mine is different, but I have never had to use a whole gallon of oil even letting the old oil drain out for a couple of hours, like I did today.

CHAIN SLACK

This is my chain slack measuring tool. Wasn't my idea, I got it from someone else on this board over 2 years ago, then modified his idea a bit. Great idea! Simply a block of wood with a dowel mounted in it on an angle matching the chain run, and 2 small rubber bands.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20001_zpsz9nok7gd.jpg.html]

The rubber bands on mine I spaced 1 1/8" apart (1.125").

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20019_zpstiytblal.jpg.html]

This is adjustable by rolling the bands up or down the dowel. Spec for the slack on our bikes calls for 1"-1.4" measured halfway between the front and rear sprockets, at the tightest spot in the chain. What I do is after checking 4 or 5 places on the chain to see if one is any tighter than the other, place the tightest spot (if you have one..mine felt the same) in the center of the bottom run, slide the tool up against the chain until it meets the CENTER of the pins in one link. Then push up from the bottom of the chain next to the dowel, to see if the center of the pin on that link goes above or below the top rubber band. If it is above the band the chain needs adjustment, if it is below the top rubber band it is ok. Mine is still ok. It has not needed adjustment in 8,000 miles. I'm guessing next oil change it will need some tightening.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20020_zpspjmn5rm6.jpg.html]

BRAKES

Use a small mirror and a flashlight to help you gauge how much brake pads you have left. At 16,000 miles I was beginning to worry that my pads might be getting low. Checked both front and rear brakes This little visual trick eased my mind. Still plenty of pad left all around. Maybe at 20,000 or 25,000 miles? I already have them in my stock whenever they are needed (along with spark plugs, an air cleaner and several oil filters and crush washers).

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20016_zpsa1cmlbfq.jpg.html]

RECORD KEEPING

Be sure and record the mileage on any services done especially if the bike is under warranty, but for your own records as well... so you can look and tell immediately when the last oil change was, how many miles are on your tires, when you last replaced the front brakes, or battery or whatever (notice I now have close to 8,000 miles on my PR3s which I out on at 8,543 miles)

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20010_zpsxesxz0qz.jpg.html]

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20011_zpsses0cifs.jpg.html]

Hope this helps someone who might be wondering.....



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Thanks again, senor Ferret!

Excellent post ferret

(09-26-2015, 04:36 AM)Rocky_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Excellent post ferret

Exceptional, thank you for that effort!

Very helpful, thanks for your efforts.

This being my first sealed o-ring bike, looking forward to a good step-by on CB chain cleaning and lubing.

Just wondering if at 16,000+ miles, did you do a valve check? If so what is the conclusion.

No I have not done a valve check yet. Bike sounds good, runs good, starts easy, my mileage has been consistant and the service guys at the shop I bought it from doesn't think it needs it.

(09-27-2015, 08:34 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: [ -> ]No I have not done a valve check yet. Bike sounds good, runs good, starts easy, my mileage has been consistant and the service guys at the shop I bought it from doesn't think it needs it.

"Wow" ferret,
For a guy that is meticulous about doing and keeping to a maintenance schedule, I can't believe your going to pass on a valve check. If something does go wrong, I'm sure the guys at the shop will back you on on this, (just saying).

Tomas.. I know. It's a gamble. I wanted to have the valves checked multiple times on my ST 1300 (same valve arrangement) and the shop forman would ask me questions and then always advise that the valves didn't need adjustment. At 54,000 miles I couldn't take it anymore and told them to do a valve inspection on it. They were all in spec. The shop says they have inspected lots of valves on these modern motors and they very rarely need adjustment, and those that do usually exhibit cetain signs..hard starting, drop in gas mileage, uneven idle to name a few.

AT 8000 and 16000 I swung by the shop. Always same advice. Not exhibiting any of the signs, save your money.

My brothers Triumph with same valve arrangement has had his valves inspected every 8,000 miles. He now has close to 40,000 miles on his bike. Never a valve out of spec.

Several members of the forum are approaching 30,000 miles and have had regular valve inspections, and always in spec. I have heard of some members that did have valves out of spec. One claimed many of his valves were out of spec, in which case I have to wonder, did he get a lemon motor, or did the mechanic really know what he was doing? Were they really out of spec, or did the mechanic adjust them so that they were in the middle of spec and run up the service bill?

Yamaha on their high performance sport bikes with 15,000 rpm redlines and same valve arrangement, specs 26,000 miles for valve inspections and those rarely need adjustment either. Surely these low rpm low performance Honda motors are as good as those. Been around forums for a long time and have seen how reliable these motors can be. Of Course, No guarantees.

But, there is a reason Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki and Triumph ALL spec this kind of valve arrangement. Because it's the best, most reliable system for opening and closing valves.

Now, before I get a lot of what if's and let me tell you's, and I had a buddy's,.... I know the consequences of a tight valve. I know that spending a few hundred bucks now may save me thousands later. I know it's cheap insurance to have them inspected. I may do that a bit further down the line. We shall see. I would not recommend others skipping valve inspections.

Like I always tell my kids. CHOICES AND CONSEQUENCES

The choice I have made is to skip the valve inspection for now, and think about it further down the road. Consequences may make themselves apparent one day and I may regret these decisions.

Thank you, Ferret!!

Very well done.

I really like your "service notes".