In the tinks how to he takes the forks off to replace the springs. Is that mandatory? I'm not finding any other reliable information online.
On a heavily related note, is the shop manual a good buy? I see it's 70$ on Helm. Cheap if it's useful, expensive if it's useless.
Woodsparrow,
The manual is definately useful. You might want to waite until the '17s come out and then order that manual as it will (should) cover all models).
I have a '13 manual. When the 14s come out the '14 manual covers '13 and '14, all models. I have one of those too.
If you don't get a manual, you can ask here and someone, usually me
will give you the answer from the manual. Other members will also have easier ways to do things than just the "Honda Way".
if only doing the springs
only the top caps needs to come off
only take apart one at a time
entire job is like 10 mins
you will likely loose a little fluid go slow and minimize the loss
oh ya loosen preload to the softest setting before you start
(04-28-2017, 01:09 AM)gtmn_imp Wrote: [ -> ]if only doing the springs
only the top caps needs to come off
only take apart one at a time
entire job is like 10 mins
you will likely loose a little fluid go slow and minimize the loss
oh ya loosen preload to the softest setting before you start
I'm doing Racetech valves and springs, so I assume I need to do the full tear down?
I also went ahead and bought the manual, figure it can't hurt.
if you do the gold valves correctly and drill out the damper rods yes, forks come apart
the valves wont work properly if you just drop them in
(04-28-2017, 09:38 PM)gtmn_imp Wrote: [ -> ]if you do the gold valves correctly and drill out the damper rods yes, forks come apart
the valves wont work properly if you just drop them in
Cool, that explains it. Last time I did something it was drop in, because of no rods. Wasn't thinking about that!
Oh well, time to dismantle the bike!
It is not hard. Just torque to spec when done and you'll be fine.