The CB1100 Community Forum

Have 9K on my 2013. Just curious how many if any had valves that needed adjustments on their first check? I'm about to have mine checked.

Mine is RS 2107 and is almost 25k km within 10 months . Still no sign for valve clearance adjustment. If it aint broke, why fix it

(03-04-2018, 01:28 PM)BackroadsRider_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Have 9K on my 2013. Just curious how many if any had valves that needed adjustments on their first check? I'm about to have mine checked.

Well broke could be quiet expensive if I wait on it to happen. I do think the norm is these bikes aren't needing adjustments. I was curious as how many have needed an adjustment on here so far? I'm liking what I hear on yours.

I think this thread is what you're looking for.

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....ight=valve

Thanks

I did my first check at 44.5K miles and still within spec.

Valve clearance check performed yesterday, mainly peace of mind and this is roughly what happened.
Even without changing shims it took the best part of the day, tank, coils, heatshield, pair valve all have to be removed.
Had a hard time disconnecting the fuel connection from the tank because didn't know how to operate the coupling, the heatshield needed bending and was a bit difficult, valve cover took some time and came free after pulling the wire harness up for a little more clearance.
The ecm was not disconnected but layd back and the tray removed ( it moves back )




There was some light rust developing on the inside of the tank where the paint was very light, i used some clear lacquer to stop this getting any worse, you can see clearly how the plastic blue lock works to disconnect the fuel line and how the rubber keeper sits underneath the wings to prevent unintentional disconnection.



It took about an hour to get the bike ready for clearance checks and the inside was in perfect shape, no oil residue anywhere, nice shiny camlobes and buckets which retain some oil between them and this will reduce wear at startups greatly.
this shows the wear pattern and how the buckets rotate constantly when the engine runs.



Had feeler gauges with 0.01 mm increments so i could have a close look at the gaps, i did not loosen the tensioner and rotated the shaft clockwise during the process.
here are the findings;


spec; ex 0.28 in 0.15 +/- 0.3 mm.


#1 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .16,.17
#2 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .15,.16
#3 - exhaust .27,.27 intake .18,.18
#4 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .16,.15

No adjustment needed.



Had a look if the camshafts were timed correctly and should have checked if all the bolts holding the shafts were tight but that's for next time.
was very happy with the lack of oil residue from using full synthetic oil in the engine.



Cleaned the gasket and surface and put a light smear of black sealant on both sides and a little dot in all the corners for the round hole covers before putting the valve cover back, tightening the 8 bolts and putting the bike back together which went a lot better than taking it to bits, i ended up greasing the little boots on the coils on the iside because it made it easy to slip them over the little plastic ridges and prevent water getting onto the terminals, you can connect 3 terminals with the coils outside the frame and the last one once they are inside the frame, honda spent some time getting this right.
so here is how it looked after the work was done;



Here you can see the discussed earth terminal on the frame.
A better insight of how the bike works was achieved and the tank put back on with checking for ( the absence of ) fuel leaks after the pump primed the system and the engine started as if nothing ever happened.

More coffee; max

thanks Max for the high res photo's . i also could not get the fuel connector loose and gave up , turning the tank sideways on the frame with rags under it while installing my air horn .
so how does that thing come apart ?

(03-15-2018, 08:03 AM)use2b_imp Wrote: [ -> ]thanks Max for the high res photo's . i also could not get the fuel connector loose and gave up , turning the tank sideways on the frame with rags under it while installing my air horn .
so how does that thing come apart ?

You need a bit of room to get your hands under the tank ( wooden block ), then slide back the black rubber keeper away from the blue clip with the black tab, then you can press on the two "wings" on the blue clip to unlatch the black hose connector and slide the hose straight off the tank.
The electrical connector lives under the left side cover and the overflow hose comes off easyer with needle nose pliers.





here is a closeup of the hose connector with the two slots that lock into the blue connector wedges, the seal is pretty much a clever o ring that pushes on and releases easy but seals under pressure.



here is the blue connector with the rubber keeper in place, it prevents the blue lock from compressing and releasing the hose connector accidentally and poor out fuel under pressure!



so remove black safety lock, press the blue wings and pull the now unlocked hose straight off.

Do i have to stress how important it is to properly replace the black rubber safety and check for leaks?

To reinstall, the book shows putting the green thing in the line fitting and then putting the line on the tank line, with the black rubber safety in place.

Just for info, it also says to replace the green thing and the black rubber safety thing with new. Every time. Most of us don’t do that, but, just letting you know.

And the book says Do not use pliers.