(08-07-2019, 04:49 AM)Gone in 60_imp Wrote: [ -> ]True, someone will steal anything given the chance. But this is baffling. Why a chain. If they had the apparatus to steal the chain, they could have easily just taken the whole bike.
Got to work a week ago, and the street was flooding. Someone had gone down the alley behind our row of shops, and cut off the water regulators for each shop. Six pieces of brass, each of which probably netted one pound of scrap value, and they were obviously nearly drowned in the act of the theft by all of the gushing water that was flowing out of the now open pipes. At least they turned in the scrap brass and got a few dollars. But a chain?
That is awful!
"But a chain?" is all I've been asking myself this week. Trying to look into a replacement chain and fix ASAP. Work schedule makes it a bit hard. The weather has been perfect in Seattle, so this is excruciating, especially with Dream Roll around the corner.
At 8,000 miles, is it safe to assume sprockets can stay as is? I know some people like to replace chain and sprockets together, but it's usually at waaay more miles than what I have currently.
Also, any good tutorials on installing a new chain? I'm not the most proficient mechanic, but it's a good learning opportunity (trying to be cost efficient and also a little lazy to coordinate towing to a shop).
Stealing community resources? Awl man - that's ghetto. Jeez.
Sorry to hear about the theft. Very disturbing.
You're right - sprockets should be fine. Replacement larger size chains like this use a master link that has to be riveted together.
Normal removal of the old chain requires grinding the heads off a link and pressing out the link. The new chain is then hooked to the old one, pulled through around the front sprocket, and riveted together while wrapped around the rear sprocket..
A rivet-type master link has malleable hollow tips of the pins on one side. That allows the master link to be peened over or crushed to prevent the sideplate from sliding off.
The chain you buy will have to be riveted together. A shop will have a special rivet tool that will press and deform the tips. It can also be done by peening the tips over with a hammer, but that takes a little more skill and effort. You would need a heavy hammer, and an even heavier (5+ pound) sledge or equivalent steel block on the back of the master link to prevent the master link from moving.
You could also rivet the master link together (or have a shop rivet it) onto the chain before putting it on the bike, but the rear wheel and swingarm would have to be removed first, and likely the front sprocket too.
If you have a shop like a Cycle Gear near you, you can pick up a chain break/rivet tool easily. The disadvantage you'll have is not having the old chain to match up the number of links you'll need. You'll have to pull the chain around and line it up with the other side, and see where it best "meets itself" to get the correct number of links. This will take more than two hands, most likely.
And Gold, you're right, stealing community resources is ghetto. But my office is in the ghetto, so...
In the US, 2013 models use a 110 link, all 2014s, and 2017 EX use a 116 link. Before you rivet it, take the countershaft cover off and loosen the rear axle. You can then run the chain around both sprockets to make sure it is the right length.
If you chose to do it at home, it isn't too difficult. If you chose to rivet the chain together first, on the bench, it is fairly easy. Assemble the chain and o-rings and master link, pressing the link plate in place. About 2 mm of pin should be sticking out. Rest the masterlink portion of the chain on something like an anvil or heavy bench vise.
If you don't have those, you can put a heavy hammer or axe down on the concrete, put the masterlink on the flat steel, and peen the edges of the pin over with another hammer. You don't have to get crazy and flatten the whole thing, just so that the link plate is tight.
To put the chain on, you loosen the rear axle and adjusters, take off countershaft cover (and possibly the front sprocket), and the chain guard. Remove the left rear shock, take out the swingarm pivot bolt, and let the front of the swingarm down. You should be able to loop the chain around without disrupting the rear brake.
I used the DID chain tool to rivet the chain , very well made and easy to use.
Duck....I have a 2017 ex and the book that came with the bike states the number of links on the chain is 110 .. are you sure of the 116 link that you posted... maybe my book is wrong..
The service manual says the ‘13 chain is 110 links. It also says after ‘13 (2014 in other words) is 110 links. My manual does not cover models after 2014.
Whoops, my error - normally quick and reliable HONDAPARTS-DIRECT.com is in error on their 2014-2017 parts catalogs. I double-checked with Honda, and you are correct - all 2013-2017 US model CB1100 are listed at 110 links.
Thanks guys for double-checking!
I did replace the chains on my 2013, 2014 and 2017 and they are all 110 links. It is worth getting a good tool if you plan to keep changing your own chains on your bikes.