Hi All,
Newbie here and this is my 1st time opening up a motorcyle cylinder head cover to do a valve clearance check and fixing the oil leak at the cover's rubber gasket. In the process one of my head cover bolt snapped broken into 2, with part of it's stud embedded inside the camshaft cap. I have since took out the camshaft cap and remove the broken stud and reinstalled everything back. There's few question I would like to ask.
1) Why the camshaft cap is not available as a spare part? Spartparts manual show its consider as cylinder head assembly. I can't seems to find part number just for the camshaft cap. (But camshaft is available as spare part. ) Aren't the turning of camshaft will soon wear out camshaft cap??
2) I torque the camshaft cap locking bolt to about 9nm only, afraid that I might broke another bolt. Will this cause the cap to loosen during high engine rev?
3) All my valve clearance are on the loose end. could these wear be due to engine oil weight i have been using? I had been using 15W-50 weight oil because I ride in 34-39 Celsius weather ( about 90-100 Fahrenheit) all the time. And on a hot day it could be 40 Celsius.
4) The tread on the camshaft cap have been damage abit, due to this, i have reduce the locking torque on the head cover. any risk other than leaky top or missing bolt?
5) For the 4 small connector wires at the back of the ignition coil, how do we identify which goes to where if we forgot to label them?
Hi zirconxi, i hope you mean the cylinder head cover when you mention camshaft cap, here is a partsfish page with the bolts listed as item# 9 , here's the link;
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...head-cover
Popgun is the source of torque values and he might explain this better than i can.
The coil wires are as follows;
I found that if you put some grease on the inside of the 4 little boots it just slides on easy and i took lots of pictures and video to help with the re-assembly.
Sorry for being unclear here. The camshaft cap i meant here is the bracket that hold down the camshaft. Not the cylinder head cover. The cylinder head cover bolts are screw into this camshaft cap. When i open up the top, the following is my understanding... Cylinder head cover ==> camshaft-cap ==> camshaft ==> bucket(valve lifter) ==> shims
Those cam caps are not shown as available separately on partsfish either. It may be they are matched to the head and thus have to buy the whole cylinder head to get them. This is for the 2013, but all years look like this:
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...inder-head
Aikss...that's s mean a broken bolt mistake that cause 1200. Guess i just got to stick with repairing the tread holes if the tread give way.
If someone doesn't post the torque value I'll look it up this evening after work.
Tommy did you see the spreadsheet for the other members clearances?
yours is not much different in comparison but it can increase if the bike is used at higher rev's;
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1...=473671721
Took the liberty to add your measurements to it so we can all compare notes and learn.
And as i stated earlier the most wear occurs in the first kilometers:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid246140
Why did you remove the cam-cover, your values seem in spec to me ( see very top of the spreadsheet ) and i think this top part of the camshaft bearing is machined ( finished ) bolted to and mated with the cylinder head for a precise fit and close tolerance, most bikes only need to be adjusted ( shimmed ) after 40 to 50.000 km?
Sorry for the misunderstanding about this cover.
.
(08-05-2019, 12:47 AM)max_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Tommy did you see the spreadsheet for the other members clearances?
yours is not much different in comparison but it can increase if the bike is used at higher rev's;
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1...=473671721
Took the liberty to add your measurements to it so we can all compare notes and learn.
And as i stated earlier the most wear occurs in the first kilometers:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid246140
Why did you remove the cam-cover, your values seem in spec to me ( see very top of the spreadsheet ) and i think this top part of the camshaft bearing is machined ( finished ) bolted to and mated with the cylinder head for a precise fit and close tolerance, most bikes only need to be adjusted ( shimmed ) after 40 to 50.000 km?
Sorry for the misunderstanding about this cover.
.
well, being silly me, I broke the bolts holding the cylinder head cover (The outer cover). Parts of the broken bolt is inside the thread hole inside this cam cap/cover. If you notice, the outer top cover 8 bolts is actually bolted into these 4 piece of cam holder. 2 bolts into each cam-cap. not actually into the cylinder head block. I have to remove it to extract the broken bolt. Not really opening it for shimming. once extracted the broken bolt i reinstall it back. didn't even touch the cam chains.
Hi zirconxi,
Here are some opinions on your questions 1-4 (#5 answered in Post #2 by max).
1.) The cylinder head is cast with the lower cam bearing holders in the head, but the upper cam caps are separate castings. All will have the half-moon space for the camshaft bearings, but they need to be finish machined through a process called line boring.
Camshaft bearings needed to be located precisely, so they will always have hollow dowel pins to keep them from squirming when bolted down.
The un-machined cam bearings are torqued down to spec with their dowel pins, and the cylinder head is securely held down.
Then the long, precisely located, spinning boring bar, with multiple cutting heads for each cam bearing, can pass through, into a rigid support bearing on the other end. (That is also the reason the cylinder heads have those half-moon cutaways on the outer surfaces on both sides.
So each of those cam caps are precisely matched to the bearing in the head, and they must be kept in the exact location, which is why they are numbered/lettered, or otherwise located.
2.) I would torque them all to spec.
3.) If the camshaft/bucket clearances are within spec, I would not be worried. Valve clearances are likely to get tighter as the valve head pounds into the seat. There is likely no wear on the camshaft or cam bearing holders, as long as there is oil pressure.
I would run the recommended 10w-30 oil, maybe change it more often. The thicker 15w-50 will not flow as well, and will make the engine run hotter.
4.) The cam cap threads can be repaired with a Heli-coil or Time-sert or other steel thread insert. But no, having it looser than the torque spec will not affect anything unless there is oil loss.