The CB1100 Community Forum

Well...I FINALLY received the right FRONT brake pads...mix up was all my fault as I was under the impression the 2013 Standard non ABS model was called a 2013A.

Anyway...very simple install. Should take about 10 minutes +/- per side.

1) Remove two pad pins on each caliber (leaving calibers in place on fork). Identified as [1] in picture below. Take off metal cover and remember which end goes up.



2) Pull out old brake pads.
3) Used compressed air to clean area and look for leaking fluids. None present.
4) Push Caliber pistons back for clearance if required ( I did this with a large flat head screw driver covered in electrical tape to keep from scratching any metal surfaces)
5) Drop in new pads.
6) Replace pins. It's probably easiest to replace the bottom pin first by aligning it through the holes of each pad and making sure the little metal cover is where it's supposed to be. I used a set of surgical forceps to reach in there and get the tabs with the holes lined up for that. Once that's done you can let the metal cover drop into place at the top and push your pin through for the correct alignment. If you don't have the OEM Honda maint book you might want to take a close up of the metal cover before removing it so you know the correct pin orientation on reassembly. Torque to spec ( 17Nm (1.7 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft

Pads in picture below are shown in the orientation they were removed from the bike. Right side pads on right and Left pads on left side of pic. Left to right in picture...

Left outside pad....Left inside pad...Right inside pad...Right outside pad.



I tried to get a decent pic of each sides pads remaining surface (thickness) to give an idea of what front brake pads look like at 20K miles were the rider brakes moderately aggressive as the norm while using the rear brakes as well.

The right side pads had the most surface remaining (thickest) of the two sets. The left outside pad had the least material remaining of the four pads.

Right side:



Left side:

My original pads went 19,102 front & rear and there was still a little pad left

The next set I replaced at 36,909 when I had chain & sprockets replaced (about 17,807 on the pads) and wrote my self a note that I left too much pad and they should go 20K)

I'm now at 48,581 (about 11,672 on the third set of pads) and expect them to go another 8 thousand miles or so, but will be due for tires before then and will have them checked. I have replacement pads already in my spares box.

You can use them up until the slots in the pads are gone, but no further

Great tutorial,good information thanks for the tips.

Cool Frulk. Thanks for sharing your results.

Glad to hear that this wasn't that difficult. As my '17 matures, I'm starting to think more about what I'm capable of doing myself (fluids, filters and brakes) and what I should leave for others (valve checks, tire mounting).

one of the first things I did was toss those tin shields to allow airflow. I'll be curious to see how mine look at 20k miles.

(12-28-2019, 05:32 PM)pdedse_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Glad to hear that this wasn't that difficult. As my '17 matures, I'm starting to think more about what I'm capable of doing myself (fluids, filters and brakes) and what I should leave for others (valve checks, tire mounting).

(+1) More true if one does not have a garage.

Speaking of pads, has anyone here done EBC pads?

Just curious, cause honestly the braking on this bike needs nothing, I'm so happy I ended up getting a non ABS model

I haven't on this bike, but EBC makes good pads

(01-03-2020, 01:13 PM)E11even_Hunnit_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Speaking of pads, has anyone here done EBC pads?

Just curious, cause honestly the braking on this bike needs nothing, I'm so happy I ended up getting a non ABS model

I did EBC "green stuff" on a car. Not happy at all. OEM were better in terms of wear, dust, and performance.