The CB1100 Community Forum

So riding around today after the indicators/headlight fix, everything was working fine for an hour or two then at 50-60mph the bike cut out. I rolled it to a stop and tried to start it again and it started again but as soon as I revved it it died and after that the starter would turn but the engine wouldn't fire.

Also when the key is turned on I noticed the fuel pump now doesn't make the priming sound.

So I checked previous posts on here and there was info about the kill switch, so I did one of the suggested checks and I turned the key and looked for the engine check light but it doesn't come on and the fuel pump noise doesn't sound either but the starter will turn but no firing up.

I then preceded to play with the kill switch to see if I could get it to fire with it being a loose connection and I'm now at the stage where the fuel pump doesn't prime and the starter won't turn over either (and the engine check light doesn't illuminate).

Would the kill switch failing kill the connection to the fuel pump but still allow me to turn the starter? As I would have thought it would be all or nothing?

Starter will not start with kill switch asserted - obviously when the switch is "healthy".

Also beaten to death on many motorcycle forums, including this one, is the issue of a healthy battery. I don't recall, but what is the history of your battery?

Other assumptions: You are in neutral gear when attempting start. If not, then the side stand is up, clutch pulled.

The bike is in neutral, off the side stand, with the kill switch in the run position and the bike originally would turn the starter but the fuel pump wasn't priming.

Now the starter doesn't turn and the fuel pump doesn't prime when the key is turned. The battery is new and when the starter was still turning I didn't keep cranking until it run the battery flat, one minute it was cranking great, I messed about with the kill switch and now nothing.

So does the CB (2013) require the clutch to be pulled in to start the bike all the time or are you just referencing when the bike isn't in neutral?

Again, look at what you last did Alex, it must be connected with your issue. I would have that headlamp off again and go through that wiring for a dodgy connection.

Hi Alex, hope this may help to find the source of the "electron strike", simple question;
Does the green neutral light lilluminate and then dim when the engine is started with the start button?




The start circuit ( pink highlighted ) is all hard wired through switches and a diode without any electronics except the bank angle sensor.
All engine management is controlled by the electronics inside the E.C.U.

Would also have a look if the battery terminals are connected properly. and not loose for some reason
Cheers.

I hope you got it sorted. After much experience with similar problems over the years, I always first check that the battery is well connected. Vibrations and difficulty with good tightening can lead to bad connections. Since you were doing other electrical repairs earlier, perhaps something didn't get tightened properly? Good luck!

Sorted it! It was the kill switch, took it apart and cleaned/realigned everything and we are back in business!!!

Thanks Alex, do you think it was moisture at work?

So awesome to read Alex. Congratulations on the recovery.

If the 2013 CB is in neutral on either stand the clutch DOES NOT need to be pulled in for it to start when you turn the key.

Just answering a question above that was asked.