Matt, without questioning anyone's opinion and diagnosis, you may reset ECU residual values and see what happens: nothing/not fixed, temporary short or long fix, permanent fix. Takes 15 min to do the entire operation at no cost.
I perform this "fix" on cars from time to time prior replacing ECU, and sometimes it helps/works. I am not a Honda tech, different brand.
Did Honda tech has a "hardware error" written/displayed on their device?, just curiosity.
Up to you and good luck with your repair.
Peterbaron:
I always enjoy reading your posts regarding our bikes! Delivered in such an articulate and engaging manner.
I found the ECU for US $442 on Hondabikes.com. That site is owned by my very enterprising local dealer/friend who had the foresight to register the domain name before Honda Corporate even thought about it. In tiny little Olympia, Wa. My advantage is being able to pick up the parts at the store and avoid shipping.
Anyway, I noticed that the part number for the ECU indicates that is has been changed from the stock 2013.
My 2013 continues to live its’ charmed existence. Never an issue of any kind.
Knock on wood ...
(11-29-2020, 11:51 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Matt, without questioning anyone's opinion and diagnosis, you may reset ECU residual values and see what happens: nothing/not fixed, temporary short or long fix, permanent fix. Takes 15 min to do the entire operation at no cost.
I perform this "fix" on cars from time to time prior replacing ECU, and sometimes it helps/works. I am not a Honda tech, different brand.
Did Honda tech has a "hardware error" written/displayed on their device?, just curiosity.
Up to you and good luck with your repair.
“Hardware error” was my term not the tech’s. I’ll ask about resetting the residual values. Thanks for the advice.
No need to take your bike to anyone, you can do it yourself.
My bike is already taken to someone — it’s in the shop now, presumably with the old ECU removed. Also, I don’t know how to perform the reset that you describe. I have no doubt that it’s within my abilities, but my comment about asking the tech to do this was because I have neither the instructions nor the bike in my possession at this time.
Sometimes it is easier to write a bigger check but I do the normal maintenance on my bikes. Know your limits !
(11-29-2020, 10:21 PM)EmptySea_imp Wrote: [ -> ]My bike is already taken to someone — it’s in the shop now, presumably with the old ECU removed. Also, I don’t know how to perform the reset that you describe. I have no doubt that it’s within my abilities, but my comment about asking the tech to do this was because I have neither the instructions nor the bike in my possession at this time.
You can do it, it's DIY without any special tool:
* If possible warm up the bike to get normal operating temp and idling (not necessary)
* Ignition OFF/key out from the ignition switch
* Disconnect both battery cables from the battery terminals, the negative cable first.
* Cover both battery terminals with a plastic bag/rag to prevent accidental cable to terminal reattachment.
* Join both cables (- &+) together for about 10 minutes. If the battery cables are too short, jumper wire can be used.
* Reconnect both cables back to the battery terminals, the positive cable first, then the negative.
* Ignition ON, wait until meters sweeping is completed 2-3 sec, start your bike and observe idling......
Thanks. That does seem simple, PB. I will call first thing tomorrow to see if they can try that at the shop. As I said, I don't have the bike in my possession to do it and I'm not having it put together with the old ECU, riding it home (or having it delivered home) and then trying this. That would mean another day at least of not being able to ride. Since the bike has to be there for new tires anyhow, I think they should be able to try your reset technique (assuming they haven't already) pretty easily and at no additional charge.
Peter , that is a very easy thing to try before buying new parts , you are so smart !
Do not assume this is a common fix or solution but sometimes it helps due to an unexplained electronic glitch...
Technically speaking, if one wants to swap two identical ECMs between bikes/cars, the residual values should be reset.
For the cars I work on, I use a tablet with a special program that reads service data & communicates +++more with the ECM...but sometimes as a last resort before ECM replacement, I use this manual reset as described above.
