redbirds, if you can't fish them out i'm thinking it's due to 4 valves per cylinder, because i've seen with old 2 per motors that you can block the valves from returning through the spark plug holes and fish the shims out. i don't think a magnet is a good idea ever though. as the first step should be making sure your tools are demagnetized. ??
Actually jimgl3, the manual says to use magnetized tools to remove the bucket (lifter) and the shim. And a warning not to drop them into the engine...
There is no fishing them out. You have to remove the cams to remove the buckets to get to the shims. Thats it. My ST1300 is the same way. Shim under bucket. Cams come out to adjust.
oh ok, shim over bucket is what I was thinking of. never personally seen the under kind.
(03-15-2018, 04:52 AM)736cc_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Shim under bucket has a MUCH less chance of “tiddlywinking” when over-revved.
Shim under bucket has MUCH less wear on associated parts which equates to not going out of spec for valve clearance.
Shim under bucket is MUCH more involved to adjust clearance.
Shade tree mechanics probably risk doing more harm than good and should not remove cams in super skillfully built professional factory built engines, and trusting someone else to do so has its risks as well. They are PERFECT from the get-go.
Only abused, over-revved, dirty oil, high mileage modern Japanese motors ever require valve adjustment. Even then, they won’t break or have catastrophic failure. Motocross singles are the exception, they need regular adjusting and rebuilding.
What do folks consider over-revving? I assume you aren’t just referring to redlining.
Can you guys who have checked your valve clearances tell me a little about the gauge you used, where you bought it, and how much it cost? Most of you have recorded your results in millimeters, and I would like to know if your gauges have .01mm increments. I have both metric and standard feeler gauges. My metric set has .05mm increments (.002 inch), and my standard set has .001 inch increments (.0254 mm). My VFR800 has a +/-.001 inch tolerance on the valves also, and I have been successfully using the standard gauges for my valve adjustments. I could get a more accurate measurement with metric gauges if they were available in .01mm increments. Thank you.
Try NAPA , Snap On or McMaster ; otherwise just Google and you should find them easily.
There is almost nothing easy with Google ...
(05-09-2018, 08:34 PM)Houtman_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Try NAPA , Snap On or McMaster ; otherwise just Google and you should find them easily.
I stopped at my local NAPA dealer and he handed me their catalog and told me to pick out the one I wanted - I didn't see anything suitable. I looked on Amazon, and didn't find anything either. It was suggested to me to go to McMaster-Car.
Dave
All you need is a common feeler gauge.
Specs from post one:
EX: 0.28 +/- 0.03 mm (0.011 +/- 0.001 in)
IN: 0.15 +/- 0.03 mm (0.006 +/- 0.001 in)
Exhaust is within spec from 0.010 to 0.012"
If a 0.010" won't go, it is too tight.
If a 0.013" will go, it is too loose.
Intake is withing spec from 0.005 to 0.007"
If a 0.005" won't go, it is too tight.
If a 0.008" will go, it is too loose.
I have an ancient Neuses set on a key ring.
It only has nine gauges:
0.015
0.012
0.010
0.008
0.006
0.004
0.003
0.002
0.0015
For the intake,
the 0.002 and 0.003 together will check 0.005"
the 0.003 and 0.004 together will check 0.007
the 0.006 and 0.0015 will check for 7 1/2 thousandths
Due to the Neuses being on loan, when I had my Moto Guzzi, I bought an OEM from AutoZone for $6.99.
Its gauges include 3,4,5,6 &7 thousandths. All are marked in thousandths and in millimeters.
https://www.autozone.com/clamps-and-meas...e/1927_0_0
