I know this topic has come up, and I've read a few of the previous posts on the matter. I wanted to lower my rear brake pedal a bit so I don't have to think about what my right foot is doing so I'm not letting it dangle a bit and ride the pedal.
I loosened the lock nut and the adjuster nut and turned it as much as it would turn to allow the pedal to lower, but it allows for hardly any movement. In fact, I turned it far enough that the pedal bound, and first time I rode out of the garage and tapped the rear brake, it stuck and I had to pull the lever up to release the brake, return home and loosen it just enough that it operates without binding.
So am I correct that bending, grinding or cutting is the only solution for further adjustment of the pedal? If so, I'll leave it be.
Cutting, welding... hmm... in five years and 9000 miles I'm just now getting around to thinking about it, so I'll probably let it be.
Might have to look into it. After I replace the chain and sprockets on the Triumph.
I would have not expected that either, Gone.
2013-2014 models have a steel brake pedal, 2016 and later have an aluminum pedal. Brake lever height adjustment is different between the two.
Since I have a 2017, I'll show first how I adjusted it. Should take 15 minutes, no fluid is exposed, no pressure is affected.
2017 models do not have a physical stop adjustment bolt. Removing the 3 bolts holding the right footpeg mounting bracket will reveal the master cylinder and pedal. The large spring at front holds the pedal upward normally, and the limiter is the pushrod, contained within the master cylinder by a circlip.
To adjust the pedal lower:
- remove the pedal pivot circlip and washer - no need to remove the pedal or spring.
- remove the master cylinder pushrod's cotter pin and the pin that goes through the pedal. You will have to slide the pedal off its pivot partly for clearance.
- slide the clevis away from the pedal. The clevis is threaded, so hold the clevis lock nut with a 12mm wrench, loosen the clevis with an adjustable wrench and remove it.
- using a 14mm wrench to hold the adjustment nut, back the lock nut off with a 12mm.
- the exposed tip of the pushrod has a flat to hold the shaft while you turn the larger adjustment nut away from the tip around 3/4 to 1 full turn.
- tighten the lock nut, snug the clevis nut against it, thread the clevis on and tighten it against its lock nut.
- reassemble in reverse order. Check the pedal height and brake light - you may need to readjust the pedal as just a little adjustment at the pushrod has a lot of effect at the pedal tip.
Well taking a look on Ebay, the cheapest '13/'14 pedals with damage are already more than I'd budget for the project. A new one is way too expensive.
I think my right ankle will agree with me.
As stated, 2013-2014 rear brake pedal adjustment is different from 2017. The early models also have a different brake switch, a pull switch with a wire spring. The 2017 uses a microswitch.
From a previous posting by Mixagon and reply by Lord Popgun:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid322871
"From the manual:
Loosen the push rod joint nut and turn the push rod until the correct pedal height is obtained.
If the brake pedal is adjusted to the lower position, make sure the clearance between the lower end of the push rod and the brake pedal does not fall below 1mm.
If the brake pedal is adjusted to the higher position, make sure the lower end of the push rod is visible inside the joint."
To adjust the brake pedal height on a 2013-2014:
- remove the 2 bolts holding the right footpeg bracket and the muffler bolt
- loosen the clevis lock nut and back of a couple turns
- turn the adjuster nut about 3/4 to 1 turn into the clevis. If the adjuster is turned too far in, it may bind against the brake pedal itself (hence the 1mm clearance the book states. see note below*)
- tighten locknut against the clevis, reassemble, and check the pedal height and brake light - you may need to readjust the pedal as just a little adjustment at the pushrod has a lot of effect at the pedal tip.
Note*
If it does bind, one easy fix is to remove the pedal and grind away a bit of clearance like below.
Gone - how many miles on your Triumph , that the chain and sprockets need replacing ?
The Triumph just rolled 21k miles and it’s at the far end of adjustment. That’s getting up there according to Triumphistas.
Hmm... I can cut a rod easier than I can grind or cut the lever, and the rod is a separate part for way cheaper than the pedal...
Something to think about. Thanks!