The CB1100 Community Forum

Daar word op de deur geklopt, hard geklopt zacht geklopt.......

And there was a little guy sitting just looking after the package, i guess he must have hopped on in Tokyo where the parcel has been in transfer passed the factory where it was made.



He was very protective of the contents and helped unpack the D.I.D. tool from Houtman.



So we both unpacked the long awaited and perfectly presented chain tool and had a " bear " or two on the arrival.

Thanks John, i'm very pleased

I am pleased that the tool finally arrived and thanks again for all you do to make the Forum a better place to be !

Please show the tool(s), not the boxes !

(10-13-2022, 01:09 AM)The Gecko_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Please show the tool(s), not the boxes !

I reckon the shipping stuffing doesn't cut it either.

(10-12-2022, 12:29 PM)max_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Daar word op de deur geklopt, hard geklopt zacht geklopt.......

And there was a little guy sitting just looking after the package, i guess he must have hopped on in Tokyo where the parcel has been in transfer passed the factory where it was made.



He was very protective of the contents and helped unpack the D.I.D. tool from Houtman.



So we both unpacked the long awaited and perfectly presented chain tool and had a " bear " or two on the arrival.

Thanks John, i'm very pleased

Max, ....or Houtman stapled the Teddy bear to the box in US?

Hi Max, what a coincidence! I just watched a video on using this tool yesterday when I replaced the chain and sprockets on my bike. I've been replacing chains & sprockets for years, but yesterday I thought it was a good idea to actually read the instructions. I own a chain breaker / rivet tool manufactured by Motion Pro, but the D.I.D. tool you just bought looks much better because it is much beefier. I would like to use this opportunity to share a couple of tips with the forum on the proper way to install a riveted masterlink:

1. When pressing the side plate on: Measure the chain width and when you press the side plate on to the masterlink make the masterlink width equal to the width of the chain (I accidently pressed my side link on too far, and this is why I decided to finally consult various U-tube videos. Some of the videos I watched leave a lot to be desired, and the video linked to the D.I.D. chain installation that used your tool left a lot of important information out).
2. When you form the rivet head, consult the chain manufacturers recommendations.You'll find that D.I.D. chain defines the proper diameter of the formed head.

Hope these tips helps someone on the forum.

I always measured the rivet head when "crimping " it , never had any problems doing it according to the instructions .

Hi Gecko, sorry, the little bear is still learning how to present the tool he watches over.

No staples Peter, he just had this firm grip on the box, quite the "clinger".

Here he is showing what's inside the box, as you can see he's reading the instructions upside down, i think that's very clever....



and here is a link showing how to use it;





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrC6qtoLCRo

And one that explains why this tool is the BIZ;





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYaacze91Fg

As Dave has mentioned there are shortcomings in the average youtube video's.

If you are splitting the old chain did now advises to grind the pin flush with the surface of the link ( don't use a master link to split the old chain, the hole in the center of the pin does not provide optimal surface contact to push the old pin out the back of the link ) to avoid unnessary pressure on the tool's extraction pin, i have always done that intuitively too.

The chain master link's lifespan relies on full lubrication of the pins inside the links, i prefer to coat in-and outside surfaces with the grease provided in the masterlink kit and also close off the ends of the links with your thumb as you push the pin part of the link through to maintain as much grease inside the link tubes as the grease slowly works it's way back past the pin by the pressure you push the link through the chain.

The best part of the tool is the guidance it provides when pushing the connection plate ( with the text on the outside ) home in the correct with to align with the other links so as to not over compress the link plate and squash the x-rings under it, the slot in the tool's compression push plate stops on the protruding pins when the correct seating depth has been achieved, it has been purposely engineered that way.

And the hardest test is the last part of the operation where the pins are expanded at the end to make sure the link is reliably installed as designed without the risk of coming apart.

All these features have been carefully engineered that way and that is what you pay for in a convenient package crafted from Japanese high quality steel.

And as John has explained it is good practice to check your work after you have finished, the best and last part of any job is to confirm the work has been tested and verified correctly as shown at the end of the video.

Hope we touched on the most important points and great thanks to Mr Houtman's generous offer.

(10-13-2022, 04:56 AM)max_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Gecko, sorry, the little bear is still learning how to present the tool he watches over.

No staples Peter, he just had this firm grip on the box, quite the "clinger".

Here he is showing what's inside the box, as you can see he's reading the instructions upside down, i think that's very clever....



and here is a link showing how to use it;





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrC6qtoLCRo

And one that explains why this tool is the BIZ;





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYaacze91Fg

As Dave has mentioned there are shortcomings in the average youtube video's.

If you are splitting the old chain did now advises to grind the pin flush with the surface of the link ( don't use a master link to split the old chain, the hole in the center of the pin does not provide optimal surface contact to push the old pin out the back of the link ) to avoid unnessary pressure on the tool's extraction pin, i have always done that intuitively too.

The chain master link's lifespan relies on full lubrication of the pins inside the links, i prefer to coat in-and outside surfaces with the grease provided in the masterlink kit and also close off the ends of the links with your thumb as you push the pin part of the link through to maintain as much grease inside the link tubes as the grease slowly works it's way back past the pin by the pressure you push the link through the chain.

The best part of the tool is the guidance it provides when pushing the connection plate ( with the text on the outside ) home in the correct with to align with the other links so as to not over compress the link plate and squash the x-rings under it, the slot in the tool's compression push plate stops on the protruding pins when the correct seating depth has been achieved, it has been purposely engineered that way.

And the hardest test is the last part of the operation where the pins are expanded at the end to make sure the link is reliably installed as designed without the risk of coming apart.

All these features have been carefully engineered that way and that is what you pay for in a convenient package crafted from Japanese high quality steel.

And as John has explained it is good practice to check your work after you have finished, the best and last part of any job is to confirm the work has been tested and verified correctly as shown at the end of the video.

Hope we touched on the most important points and great thanks to Mr Houtman's generous offer.

Nice write-up max.

But what's in the box? We can't actually completely see that the box is empty.