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here is my write up on the Racetec gold valve install and a set of .95 kg springs for my weight 

I will add to this post as I rebuild and add the gold valve.

first I removed the wheel and fender brakes.

Then remove the 6mm allen cap out of the bottom of the fork leg have a drain pan ready 

[Image: UBWjV7E.jpeg]
 

next gently pry up the dust cover 

[Image: vtOrpG8.jpeg]

next remove the spring retainer clip do not scratch the chrome on the fork tube 

[Image: ejSgvVD.jpeg]

next break the fork cap loose then unscrew the preload adjuster 
[Image: Kp1pWBM.jpeg]
[Image: l7cfQHX.jpeg]
[Image: sHUZJIm.jpeg]

Here is how I remove the lower leg and fork seal

I do all this with the forks in the triple trees once I remove the lower legs then take the legs off the triple trees 

Here is a quick video of the fork assembly and the race web valve fits in

I will have more to add soon keep an eye out for part 2
I thought I had read that the top of the damping tube had to be machined for the emulator to fit. I hope this is incorrect. I have the emulators in my KX250 and it made a difference.
Great write-up and much appreciated! David
(02-04-2026, 10:00 AM)Karidis Wrote: [ -> ]I thought I had read that the top of the damping tube had to be machined for the emulator to fit. I hope this is incorrect. I have the emulators in my KX250 and it made a difference.

the newer ones have a machined adaptor we will find out for sure !
got the emulators ordered now i got make some more cash olla to get the springs
(02-04-2026, 09:11 AM)1973cb750 Wrote: [ -> ]here is my write up on the Racetec gold valve install and a set of .95 kg springs for my weight 

I will add to this post as I rebuild and add the gold valve.

first I removed the wheel and fender brakes.

Then remove the 6mm allen cap out of the bottom of the fork leg have a drain pan ready 

[Image: UBWjV7E.jpeg]
 

next gently pry up the dust cover 

[Image: vtOrpG8.jpeg]

next remove the spring retainer clip do not scratch the chrome on the fork tube 

[Image: ejSgvVD.jpeg]

next break the fork cap loose then unscrew the preload adjuster 
[Image: Kp1pWBM.jpeg]
[Image: l7cfQHX.jpeg]
[Image: sHUZJIm.jpeg]

here is how I remove the lower leg and fork seal

I do all this with the forks in the triple trees once I remove the lower legs then take the legs off the triple trees 



here is a quick video of the fork assembly and where the race tec valve fits in 


I will have more to add soon keep an eye out for part 2

Thanks for posting this info and the video. I’m going to be doing the same soon, so very helpful. Looking forward to part 2 ?
ok i got the new valves installed pretty easy not modifications other that the dampening rods.  make sure to use a locking compound on the dampening rod bolt and torque to 15 ft lbs install spring if it wont tighten.



Gold Valve install

here is a few of the enlarged holes and adding 2 holes per rod 

[Image: W3RBWyh.jpeg]

[Image: krEtr21.jpeg]

here i drilled one hole in the 2 blank plates my set up called for only 1 hole per side 
[Image: AnylJlv.jpeg]

helps to drill a small hole after measuring and center punching a spot for the new holes. I used a cheap step bit and made them all 5/16. that worked fine I deburred the inside with a wooden dowl and sand paper then cleaned them out with carb cleaner followed by compressed air 

[Image: TN3j02I.jpeg]

this is what comes in the box
2 valve assemblies 
2 blank plates 
3 sets of springs 
2 circlips not used in the case of the cb1100

[Image: QOHV1u5.jpeg]


here is a detailed video the cb is not much diff than our bikes
each fork took exactly 16 oz to get the right oil height measurement of 140mm that race tec recomends that spec is not what the manual states fyi 

[Image: gNQhOXM.jpeg]
[Image: Eiv2MJq.jpeg]
almost done tire and springs next
Really helpful stuff. Thanks.
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