Hi Guys
alprider is right, I searched yesterday night trough the board and I found the threads about this O2-Sensor (Lambda-Sensor).
I then looked for two 330Ohm resistors (as someone who is always fixing something, I've got quit a lot of electronic parts in my home/garage) and what should I say? The problem with my idle seems gone! The throttle is now as smooth as it was when the bike was new, nothing of this very ugly load sequencing reactions anymore.
As I couldn't test it so far on the street (only in my garage) it is waiting now for a longer run outside and over the small hills around me. It the problem could really be fix that easy, then I will be very, very happy again!
For now: Thanks to everybody here who wrote about his suggestions and ideas
Jacob first thanks for the feedback and second congratulations on the repair, i understand that you have 2 o2 sensors and hence the two 330 ohm resistors?
So i am still trying to understand your problem, could you clarify if it was;
1 high/low idle speed and stalling or;
2 stumbling whilst driving at slow speed?
However i am certainly happy for you in the mean time and congratulations with the bike, it looks fantastic!
Hi Max
Yes, my 2014 DLX has 2 o2 sensors and I've used 2 of the 330 Ohm resistors.
To describe the problem is a little bit more difficult. When I had 4'800km on the machine and I had to drive trough the nearby city of Basle, I suddenly got an unwanted increase in the idle speed. The Oiltemperature was high at that moment because of a lot of stop'n go traffic.
When I tried to drive away from the red light sign (when it changes to green), the idle decreased and the machine hat no power, it stalled without any warning in the middle of the street-crossing.
I drove as soon as possible out of the city and hoped that it was something like overheating for the electronic (the oil should work at much higher temperatures). SInce then, the machine has this so called "load sequencing reaction" which means, that if you open the throttle from idle nothing happens for about some fractions of a second and then the machine turns up very fast. You cant change the gear in a smooth way and it is always a little bit dangerous to change from close throttle to opening throttle, especially in a curve as the wheel need very good grip on the road!
the lower the speed, the higher the effect and the more disturbing.
(07-17-2019, 05:53 PM)max_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Tory what a nice entry, thanks for the video!
I noticed you had an issue with your cb1100 two years ago and it appears from your two video's that the ( high idle ) issue was resolved with a software upgrade.
Can you confirm this, because as it happens a member in Switzerland who contacted me today also has an identical high idle problem and i think it would help him to know how you got your bike repaired.
Welcome to the group and i apologize for the question so early after your first post but it was such a coincidence when he asked the question today
Hi, All CB member
I'm still confirm fixed by upgrad software
(07-17-2019, 05:53 PM)max_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Tory what a nice entry, thanks for the video!
I noticed you had an issue with your cb1100 two years ago and it appears from your two video's that the ( high idle ) issue was resolved with a software upgrade.
Can you confirm this, because as it happens a member in Switzerland who contacted me today also has an identical high idle problem and i think it would help him to know how you got your bike repaired.
Welcome to the group and i apologize for the question so early after your first post but it was such a coincidence when he asked the question today
Yes.still confirm fixed by upgrad software
Tory thanks for the nice picture and the confirmed software update repair, that is a nice workshop at the dealer.
I'm sure other members will read this with interest and appreciate your help; all the best from us, welcome to the group.
When I was in Thailand in 1969 I used to ride a Honda 350 around Sattahip/Pattaya. None of the roads looked like that, empty and pristine.