The CB1100 Community Forum

9 January 2025
 
Day 1: Brisbane to Grafton
 

Link to outbound map
 
I can't remember exactly what time it was that I pulled into Grafton. Sometime in the late afternoon. I recall being annoyed by my wet weather onesie again failing to be properly waterproof. I also recall calculating what time I was likely to get to Ebor, always assuming there would be somewhere to stay; and quickly deciding rest would be better than risking encounters with kangaroos.
 
I know it's early in proceedings, but I can't help a quick digression about the bloody onesie. I bought it in Tamworth on a morning after my two-piece wet weather gear had been shredded when I came off the bike. There's more on that in the discussion on day 2. Back to the onesie. You'd think it would be great: a single garment, lots of flouro bits to make you visible in less than perfect conditions, and less gaps and joins and cracks for water to seep in.
 
But it isn't. It's a bastard of a thing. It's hard to get on over boots and jacket. It's equally annoying to take it off. If you aren't careful with the seal over the zipper that runs from neck to the upper left leg water will seep through and collect somewhere until it overflows into your crotch, always at a moment when you could well do without such a distraction. It's often pretty hot where I ride and leaving a waterproof on when the rain's gone and the sun comes out results in being quietly baked. If you undo the zip at the neck — even just a tiny bit — to let some air in, it's like throwing out a parachute.
 
In summary, and being fair to it, even though it keeps the water out well in the unlikely event that I get the zip cover right, I hate it.
 

Ready to set out
 
I was on my way to meet AussieFlyer for yet another crack at a multi-day ride on some of the more appealing roads in his neck of the woods. A couple of other attempts at this venture have not worked out — the last one because his rear shocker popped a seal. This time he assured me the bike was in tip-top shape.
 
Even though I'd got away earlier that I'd hoped, it had taken me longer than I'd wanted to get to Grafton. Mostly because I'd stopped to sit out a shower of rain at Tamrookum. The rain caught up with me again later and I was still in wets when I got to Grafton. I found a motel — noting that the prices had risen sharply since I was last there — checked in remotely, spread my gear all over the room to dry and went in search of dinner.
 
I had a reasonable meal at the Fitzroy Bar and Grill in the Grafton Hotel.
 

That black area to the left is where I was heading
 

I stopped here to put on The Onesie
 
10 January 2025
 
Day 2: Grafton to Mudgee
 

Link to outbound map
 
If the forecast were to be believed, there was rain ahead. Showers may or may not happen and where and when would be determined in the moment. So, with uncharacteristic optimism, I set off into the morning without putting on the onesie.
 
I started with a ride over the relatively new Grafton Bridge. It augmented a wonderful old iron bridge over which cars passed on the top level and trains on the lower level. It had a slight bend in it and there is machinery allowing it to open. heaen knows when it was last opened. You can see the top level in this photo.
 

 
The other side of the bridge leads quickly to the start of a favourite ride: the Grafton to Armidale Road. The first bit is a good, quick ride from Grafton to Coutts Crossing and thence to Nymboida where the bridge is being repaired.
 

 
The road veers to the right immediately after this bridge and from there on it's a gentle climb twisting through attractive Australian bush and some farmland. A good deal of it was badly burned in fires in late 2019 / early 2020 and is now happily regrowing. An old wooden bridge damaged in the same fires has been replaced. There are photos of the aftermath of the fire in this post. A reasonable surface — excellent in parts — combined with not a lot of traffic mean ample opportunity to practice going up and down hills, changing gears and turning corners of varying degrees of sharpness. The most demanding bit of the road comes to an end shortly after Tyringham. At about the point, drops of rain appeared on my visor and I stopped at the Hernani Public School. It was holiday time so I was spared the indignity of being laughed at by children as I struggled with the dreaded onesie.
 
For some reason, lanyard cam disappeared into my top box at about this point in the day and didn't come out again.
 
I stopped in Uralla for coffee. Off came the onesie. After that I rode along the New England Highway to Tamworth which was busily preparing for Australia's major country and western music festival. I skirted around it, stupidly, blindly following the GPS which took me on a route which involved Burgmanns Lane and dirt. I wasn't too concerned about it as I knew roughly where I was, where I was going and that it would therefore not be for long. However, there was a floodway as the road crossed Goonoo Goonoo Creek and it was covered by a shallow flow of water. Slowing down I rode through it only to feel the back wheel slide under me as I reached the other side. Happily the new Angel GT rear tyre I'd fitted a couple of days before leaving seized hold of the dry concrete and all was well.
 
At this point a word on Goonoo Goonoo. Aside from it being a creek, it's also a suburb of Tamworth. What I find curious about it is that it's pronounced "Gunny Gunoo" not Goo-noo Goo-noo.
 
Shortly after this, Burgmanns Lane crossed the New England Highway and I stopped again to peel off a layer or two.
 
Altogether cooler, I set off to stare down a demon.
 
In 2020, riding home from Tasmania, on a wet day that was no fun for a rider but manna from heaven for the locals, I rounded a corner, met an ocean of black, slimy mud and fell off the bike. See here. When I was last vaguely in the area I wanted to revisit the spot, but the road that would most easily get me there was closed so I took another route altogether. This time there was no excuse and, although I approached the spot from the opposite direction, I proceeded around the corner with great care. No mud, the road was dry and I was soon past.
 
I don't remember that there was anything eventful on the rest of the day's ride. At the end of it, I found myself a room at the Federal Hotel. They didn't offer food and so I enjoyed a pleasant enough walk to The Oriental Hotel that did. I had an OK pizza, conferred with AussieFlyer about where we might meet the next day and went to sleep.
 
11 January 2025
 
Day 3: Mudgee to Boorowa
 

Link to outbound map
 
Is it funny or depressing how quickly one's memory fades; I'm not sure. Anyway, I remember it was cool enough to warrant layers and heavy gloves that it was cool as I set out for Boorowa where I was to meet AussieFlyer. I rode the Castlereagh Highway to Bathurst.
 

The cloud to the right looked ominous, but it turned out not to be a problem
 

Lake Windamere south of Mudgee
 
Lanyard cam is a wonderful thing, but it's not always easy to operate when wearing heavier gloves to keep out the cold. Here's an example of the sort of photo I can easily take when fumbling it into position.
 

 
At Blayney I stopped for petrol, coffee and a mediocre croissant. I then decided to trust the GPS and take a different route to the Wyangala Dam. Yet another dumb mistake as, having had to stop and don the onesie, for a brief but unfriendly shower, I ended up on yet another dirt road. Mercifully, it was not unreasonably long and quite soon I joined the Reg Hailstone Way for the final and best bit of it.
 

A glimpse of the blue sky that was to make it very hot indeed after the shower
 
By the time I arrived at Wyaralong, the sun was doing its thing and I was stinking hot inside my wets. So, feeling a little like a slow-change artist, I stopped and took them off.

 
Then it was on to Boorowa where I was due to meet AussieFlyer. There was no sign of him, so I stopped at the local bakery for coffee and a meat pie before deciding to ride on and meet him on the way. I made it to Jugiong where I refuelled and trundled back to the pub where he was enjoying a beer. Of course, it was purely selfish on my part to ride to meet him as I've always really enjoyed the road from Harden to Jugiong. It undulates gently, has fast, well-cambered corners and not a lot of traffic. It's a delight for a quick ride. I then got to ride it the other way and introduce it to AussieFlyer. We overnighted at the Boorowa Hotel, on old favourite on rides down south.

Cormanus, a beautiful, long journey documented with descriptions, photos and maps!
I love all long journeys, the longer the better!
Imho a one piece rain suit looks safer but is much less comfortable.

Absolutely one of the most enjoyable reads Cormanus, in fact I read much of it to Mrs Ferret who laughed along with me on your treatise on the Onesie and the names of some of the places like Goonoo Goonoo.

Sorry about the off, but it didn't look too bad and apparently you weren't badly hurt. Thank goodness you had Rlets on the bike to spare any real hurt or damage.

Looking forward to the rest with much anticipation

12 January 2025

Day 4: Boorowa – Bathurst – Tarana – Oberon – Boorowa
 

Link to outbound map

There was rain forecast for later that day and, as it was more likely to fall in the east which was where we hoped to go, we opted for a day of local riding — going where the rain wasn't and hoping to dodge or outrun it.

Nah.

We had a lovely ride, retracing my steps to Wyaralong but then sticking to the Reg Hailstone Way until Woodstock and the Great Western Highway. That landed us in Blayney where we took coffee and contemplated our next move.

AussieFlyer astern leaving Boorowa


AussieFlyer leads on a more interesting road

AussieFlyer decided it would be fun to ride the Mount Panorama motor racing circuit at Bathurst — see here for my ride around it in 2020. It was fun, although I forgot to take more photos to improve on my not-so-good ones from the previous trip.


Zooming in should reveal the white stones spelling "Mount Panorama" at the top of the racing circuit

We then proceeded to the Tarana Hotel along a pretty country road I've not been on for some years. There's a couple of pretty railway bridges including the one below.


After Tarana there were no more photos: the weather started to close in. We ran quickly along the pretty Hazelgrove Road to Oberon where we refuelled. Fortunately, it was Sunday so we were able to park our bikes on the footpath under an awning to avoid a rapidly approaching storm. We enjoyed the display of lightning from under cover in the café next door. It passed, but it was clear more was coming, so we donned our wets and took the main road to Bathurst, Cowra and back to the Boorowa Hotel. Just south of Bathurst we got a serious drenching and met some scattered showers as we arrived at Boorowa.

I dunno..sounds like Inhouse Bob was there...at least in spirit

13 January 2025

Day 5: Boorowa to Walwa


Link to outbound map

The forecast said rain was likely in the eastern part of where we wanted to ride, so I planned a day that I hoped would avoid the worst of it. As it turned out, we avoided it all and got very hot.


Leaving Boorowa in another direction

When we stopped at Tumut for coffee and fuel, AussieFlyer told me how much he'd enjoyed the Harden to Jingelic Road. I was pleased as I didn't think he'd quite shared my enthusiasm when we'd ridden it two days earlier. It's a great road, I think: no really tight corners; just sweepers combined with a gentle undulation.

AussieFlyer leads the way into the hills

From Tumut we took the Snowy Mountains Highway east. It climbs — occasionally quite steeply — to a plateau. It's a fun ride and it was a glorious day. The Snowy Mountains is the highest part of continental Australia. It's not tall by the standards of the rest of the world; nor is it spectacular in the way of, say, part of the Rocky Mountains. As I rode along I pondered how the area came also to be known as the Australian Alps. The word 'alp' conjures images in my mind at least of jagged, snow-capped mountains, rocky and unvegetated This place, while pretty enough is none of those things. It's not even snowy for much of the year.

I concluded there were two likely stories. In the first, some pompous English colonist came to the high country and decided that, because there was a mountain higher than anything found in the United Kingdom, he (and it was surely a he) would call them the Australian Alps. Done.

In the second, the same pompous ass asks the advice of his subordinates on the proper nomenclature for the area. One says flippantly, 'It must surely be the Australian Alps, sir' and is gobsmacked when the humourless clown writes on his embryonic map, 'Australian Alps'.






We stopped for a stretch and a look at Black Perry lookout. It's a lovely view, but they're not really alps, are they?



We turned off on to the Link Road near Kiandra and made our way to the turn-off to Cabramurra. Deciding there was nothing worth stopping for, we proceeded along the lovely Snowy Ridge Road and down to the Tumut Pond Dam, part of the Snowy Mountains Hydro-electric Scheme.




The Tumut Pond Dam Wall




Bikes on the dam

After photo opportunities, we followed the lovely road around and down the mountain for 70 kilometres or so to Corryong where we stopped for cold water and a break. It was very hot by then and the break was welcome. AussieFlyer had an interesting conversation with a bloke from Malta touring on a Harley Davidson.

We refuelled and rode another 70-odd kilometres to the Walwa Hotel another favourite watering hole on my journeys to the south. More welcome cold drinks and dinner brought another day's riding to an end.

14 January 2025

Day 6: Walwa to Bright


Link to outbound map

Pterodactyl, Noroomtomove and I first rode with AussieFlyer in 2018. The trip was cut short for some reason I can no longer call to mind. But we rode the Omeo Highway in Victoria — once ridden not forgotten. It was time to ride it again. The bonus this morning was the warm-up ride: 60 kilometres alongside the Murray River and the Hume Weir followed by the Granya Gap, a pretty, 17-kilometre, curvaceous stretch of road between Granya and Bullio. Well worth the price of admission.


Then we were into the Omeo Valley and the pretty ride to Mitta Mitta where we enjoyed coffee and a break at the General Store. It's been done up since I was last there, but still boasts some of the most expensive fuel in Australia. I used not to want to ask why it's so expensive because I didn't want them to stop selling it, but there's a 24-hour automated service station at Eskdale just a few kilometres to the north where fuel is a reasonable price. So maybe I will ask next time. I hope the answer is that they're forced by the fuel companies to pay a higher price.

From Mitta to Mitta to Omeo is 105 kilometres or thereabouts. On most well-made Australian roads that's slightly less than an hour's travel time. Ask a GPS app and you'll be told this will take you around an hour and three quarters. Even though the surface is sometimes covered with leaf litter and bits of eucalyptus tree blown off in storms, for my money it's the best ride in Australia. I had a happy time throwing the bike from side to side as we wove our way to Anglers Rest where we stopped for a break before the final haul to Omeo. I'm pretty sure AussieFlyer did too.





On the Omeo Valley Highway. It's not only pretty; it's a great ride too.


A thistle at Angler's Rest

After not very long we set off again and a few kilometres later emerged from a steep river valley into more open country. The road became more open and better finished and so, with a logic I'm still trying to understand, the speed limit was reduced.

There's not much more to report. After a break and a cup of tea in Omeo, we rode the final leg over Mount Hotham and down the wonderful road on the western side. It was very hot when we arrived at the Alpine Hotel and a cool libation or two were very welcome.


This is somewhere just to the west of the summit of Mt Hotham. The consequences of straying on to the other side of the poles would be severe.




End of the day at Bright

15 January 2025

Day 7: Bright to Boorowa


Link to homeward map

That was it, really. AussieFlyer had to head home; any plans I may have had to extend my trip were cast aside by a minor family matter which made home the place to be, so, with dubious weather ahead for the pair of us, we went our separate ways.

My route took me out of Bright in glorious sunlight …


… into a wonderful warm-up ride over the Tawonga Gap and then up to Falls Creek — another ski resort — and over the Rock Valley Dam and on to the Bogong High Plains Road which descends to the Omeo Valley Highway (again) just north of Anglers Rest.


Rock Valley Dam


More Omeo Valley

AussieFlyer and I had blown all the leaf litter onto the other side of the road as we rode south the day before, so I had to contend with the same crap again as I rode north.

I took what feels like an obligatory stop in Mitta Mitta for coffee, followed by a quick ride to Eskdale (where the petrol is many cents a litre cheaper), and thence back to Walwa — this time via the Guys Forest Road which, while not quite as much fun as the Granya Gap, is nonetheless scenic and a fun ride. As I steamed down the straight that leads into Walwa, I startled a couple of birds to my right and an eagle to my left and they all took off. In a last-minute manoeuvre, the eagle swung sharply toward me. I ducked and felt a wing brush against my helmet. Quite close enough, thanks. At the speed I was travelling a more direct hit to the Shark Head gear could have been very ugly indeed for both parties.

It was stinking hot by this time and I stopped at the Jingelic General Store for a cold drink. I got a message from AussieFlyer saying he'd just arrived home having got a bit wet and windblown.

My next stop was Tumut where it was still very hot. But the storm clouds were gathering and, after refuelling, rehydrating and consulting the weather radar, I formed the mistaken view that I would completely skirt the edge of the storm and took off.

Storm clouds to my left leaving Tumut. The poplars bent well over towards me as I passed.

Not long after taking that photo, with the wind rising and the sky darkening further, I stopped to pull on the dreadful waterproof onesie. A ute stopped with a sign on the back window that said "Jesus loves you. Everyone else thinks you're a prick." The driver, though, turned out to be a kind woman who not only helped me with the onesie but told me the reports of the storm were bad. She said (although I've not been able to verify it since) that a container had blown off a train at Wagga Wagga 70 kms or so to the west of me.

I pressed on, getting blown about a bit and occasionally rained on which was welcome as it significantly lowered the temperature inside my riding gear. To the east I could see dark columns of storm activity.

The Boorowa Hotel — even without power — was a welcome site and I'd not long parked the bike under the awning when the edge of the storm hit there.

The heat and storm were both very hard work and I slept very well indeed.

Wife and I had a good chuckle about the kind lady helping you put on the onesie

16 January 2025

Day 8: Boorowa to Denman


Link to homeward map

I slept longer than I intended and was grateful for it. But then I dithered about which way to go. Of course there going to be rain during the day. As I left Boorowa, I decided not to make another trip to Wyangala and headed to Crookwell instead. Leaving Crookwell a couple of drops of rain landed and I stopped to drag on the onesie before pushing on to Oberon where I stopped for coffee.

Getting close


The view from the dashboard




North of Oberon

From Oberon, I returned to Tarana before taking a new road through Byalla, Portland and Cullen Bullen. Not long after that I stopped to address what looked like serious oncoming rain by putting my phone and camera away and pulling on some waterproof gloves. Taking off, I was soon stopped by road works during which time whatever I was listening to stopped playing and the voice in my head told me my mobile phone was disconnected. Strange, I thought. It was only in the top box and the Bluetooth connection should work OK from there. On the other side of the road works I stopped and searched the top box and my clothes. No phone. Clearly I'd dropped it while I was trying to get waterproof.

Remember Douglas Adams: Don’t Panic.

Back I went through the road works and easily found the spot where I'd stopped — there was something memorable about it at the time, but I don't recall now. There was my phone, face down on the ground and unharmed. Phew! Double phew!

Through the road works for the third time — the safety officers and I were best mates by then — and on to Ilford where I was back in familiar territory. I stopped in Rylstone for a cold drink and fuel, took off the wet weather gear again, and headed up the Bylong Valley. Sadly the Bylong General Store — usually good for a cup of tea and fuel — is closed. Maybe for good? Who knows? But happily the Yarrawa Road (which was pretty but slightly treacherous dirt when last I rode it) is now sealed and a fun shortcut to Denman.

I took a room at the Denman Motor Inn, had a pleasant amble to dinner at the Royal Hotel, which has had a makeover since I stayed there once, and plotted my route home the next day.

17 January 2025

Day 9: Denman to Stanthorpe


Link to homeward map

Rain was again forecast (and likely) on the roads over the range that would be my preferred route. I decided to stay west of the range and rode north up a couple of back roads past an enormous coal mine. It's a crap picture, but there's coal to the left and right of me as I ride down this hill.



Just north of Aberdeen I joined the New England Highway and made my way north to Tamworth where Australia's major country music festival was underway. Somewhere along the way I stopped for a fight with the onesie — again — watched by these blokes who were totally indifferent to my plight.


It was windy and hot at Tamworth. There hadn't been much rain and there was no little sign of it. I took off the onesie, ate badly and drank bad coffee before skirting the main part of the town and heading north on the road through Manilla to Bingara where I stopped for more fuel.

Between Tamworth and Bingara


The main street of Bingara


The muffler showing the signs of too many encounters with the rain

It was hot again and I stopped for a cool drink and fuel at Texas. I've written about Texas before. For some reason it appeals to me. It's a tiny town on the Queensland – New South Wales border and always seems to me the antithesis of the US state of Texas, renowned for its size. Does it also remind me of the movie, Paris, Texas? I'm not sure.

I like the road from Texas to Stanthorpe and it's been a good while since I've ridden it, so I set off thinking I'd simply take the main road home once I arrived on the outskirts of Stanthorpe. Of course, unexpected rain got in the way: not much; just enough to make me realize I was tired. Stopping was a smarter thing to do. So I did. Am I getting old?

The Boulevard Motel was clean, reasonably priced and comfortable and I found an OK Italian restaurant a short walk away.

18 January 2025

Day 10: Stanthorpe to Brisbane


Link to homeward map

It was a delightful morning, albeit cool. I set off for home deciding to avoid the Cunningham Highway and take the pretty road through the hills to Fordsdale and Gatton before a run over Mt Glorious and Mt Nebo — the Brisbane recreational motorcycle route.

I took only one photograph: as I pulled into the petrol station in Warwick to refuel, I hit a milestone. Based on the conventional divisor of 1.6, this makes 100,000 miles in the old money. It actually isn't: the number is 160,934.4. But it'll do me for a milestone.


I was home by late morning after another great ride. It will be the last decent time I'll get on the bike for the next three months as other commitments will take me from home and riding.

Thanks AussieFlyer for enticing me out.

RE: "At this point a word on Goonoo Goonoo. Aside from it being a creek, it's also a suburb of Tamworth. What I find curious about it is that it's pronounced "Gunny Gunoo" not Goo-noo Goo-noo."

Haha! I'd like to visit Australia just to take in all the crazy names.

RE: "Boorowa".... seriously?

RE: "Wyangala Dam" ... why not? Every time I read your reports and come across such names, I always "hear" my Australian brother-in-law's voice pronouncing them.

RE: "Kiandra...Cabramurra...Tumut...Corryong...Walwa..." It's as if the director of Star Wars visited Australia before making the movies and used the funky names as inspiration for names of places in the series.

RE: "Mitta Mitta" so...I think I understand now. If Goonoo Goonoo is actually pronouned "Gunny Gunoo", then please tell me that Mitta Mitta is actually pronounced "Mighty Mutta". Am I close?

Awesome ride report. Very enjoyable.