Deanohh,
How much did the the tune run you?
I really wish DJ would post some more maps..
I'm really suprise it was rich anywhere.
Custom map was $200. Local guy does a few hundred bikes a year, mostly for track racing. Asked for power when I cranked it but more economy when cruising and he knew what to do. First set up for afr of 13.5 because 13 gives most power but his sniffer was after the cat. Then kept adding fuel and getting more power... Stop adding fuel when no more power added and that showed 13.2, meaning the cat only made .2 diff in the afr reading. Adjusted rest of map for smoothness and a little higher afr in cruising range. Reduced fuel adds almost everywhere with many minus values. Bike now really eats up the road, smooth everywhere, quick reaction to throttle, and I expect higher mpg.
My TSR just arrived today and all I can say is "WOW". This is a high quality piece, or should I say pieces. Darmahman is dead on, the CAT substantially smaller than the stocker. I will post pics and scan the instructions once I begin putting the header on the bike. Still waiting for the Eastwood coating to arrive.
I have put maybe 300-400 miles on my Takahashi headered CB1100 and there is no sign of blueing yet. But boy there is more power - right away when the happy stick is twisted...
That's great to hear. Keep us posted!
(11-18-2013, 08:59 AM)darmahman_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I have put maybe 300-400 miles on my Takahashi headered CB1100 and there is no sign of blueing yet. But boy there is more power - right away when the happy stick is twisted...
darmahman - are you running the stock air cleaner?
Yes I am.
darmahman - are you running the stock air cleaner?
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I just installed my TSR chrome header and wanted to share a few thing with everyone.
I couldn't believe how loose the acorn flange nuts were when I went to remove the stock header. Even if you never plan to change your header, check these nuts for proper torque. If you do change the header, it is a good time to apply anti-sieze to the exhaust studs.
Make sure you test fit all of the pipes in the collector before you start attaching anything. One of the collector outlets holes on mine had a small ridge in it and the pipe would not fit. A dremmel solved the issue.
I had to cut a special pull tie with a tip that fits into the frame to remove the O2 sensor wire. I had an extra one in my toolbox. The tie is located behind the right side cover and holds several wires up. I recommend you have one handy before you start.
The O2 sensor is just stupid the way it is mounted on the stock header, if you need to remove it, spend the $35 and buy the Ko-Ken Socket. Snap On wants $50 for their version.
http://www.toolpan.com/Koken-3300FN-17--..._1576.html
I have a PC V so I just plugged the hole on the new collector and left the sensor in the stocker
(Props to darmahman for removing it without this special tool)
Overall, I am happy with this header. The larger diameter pipe looks right on the bike and the chrome is definitive aesthetic improvement over the golden stainless. My only concern is possible vacuum leakage where the four pipes fit into the collector. I used the supplied sealant, but am skeptical as to how well it seals, In my opinion. it would have been a nicer piece had the collector and cat been welded to the head pipes. The Staintune with the factory header had a gurgle on decel, but it is much more pronounced now. Not sure yet if that is the norm given the larger pipes and smaller cat or the product of a vacuum leak
Oh, and I applied the Eastwood internal heat coating. Took awhile to clean the pipes with Brakleen, but the coating went on just like spray paint.
HondaJon,
Terrific write up and pictures. Thank you! And thanks for the tip on the header nuts - checking mine today
TSR, staintune and PC V - NICE!!! Have you done anything on the input side? K&N filter perhaps? (still waiting on mine)
Other than the gurgle on decel, any other performance differences? How is the acceleration?
CB4ME,
I am also running a K&N filter, unfortunately, as I expected, there is leakage where the four pipes fit into the CAT/collector. I am sure this is the cause of the extra pops on decel.
Most exhaust systems with slip joints use pull springs or clamps, much to my dismay, this system has neither. TSR gives you a tube of sealer, which is just black silicone, to seal the joints. I wish I had known this before I ordered. I pulled it back off today and am seeking a solution.
Since I am out $680, anyone have any recommendations on a good sealant? I would love to have it welded, but I don't think there is enough room.
If another sealant doesn't work, I was also thinking of cutting slits in the 4 collector tubes and using clamps, but I am not sure if anyone makes any that are small enough to work.
Any help, ideas are greatly appreciated.