The CB1100 Community Forum

For some reason these little projects seem to take all day.

Installed the Givi E26 base plate on the Honda rear carrier. That part was fairly smooth, but you have to make sure to leave enough room so you can take the seat off. That makes the base plate hang over the back of the carrier just a tad.

Next came the wiring which took the most time. Had to search other forums to find out which of the 3 honda wires to splice to the 2 Givi wires.

The Honda green/yellow wire (power) goes to Givi Red wire. Honda green wire (ground) goes to Givi blue wire. This is key as polarity matters to the LED.
Leave the Honda brown wire alone.

Had to shave the wires a bit with a sharp knife to ensue they were connected. The in line splicers are a good idea but not great.




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The green/yellow is the brake light. The brown/black is the running light. The orange and blue are the turn signals (left, and right, respectively). Solid green is ground everywhere. In case anyone else needs to know. These colors are universal on all (modern) Honda motorcycles, apparently.

(01-25-2014, 11:31 AM)lagoje_imp Wrote: [ -> ]For some reason these little projects seem to take all day.

Installed the Givi E26 base plate on the Honda rear carrier. That part was fairly smooth, but you have to make sure to leave enough room so you can take the seat off. That makes the base plate hang over the back of the carrier just a tad.

Next came the wiring which took the most time. Had to search other forums to find out which of the 3 honda wires to splice to the 2 Givi wires.

The Honda green/yellow wire (power) goes to Givi Red wire. Honda green wire (ground) goes to Givi blue wire. This is key as polarity matters to the LED.
Leave the Honda brown wire alone.

Had to shave the wires a bit with a sharp knife to ensue they were connected. The in line splicers are a good idea but not great.




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I use "Posi-Tap" connectors and splicers on projects like this. They're easy to use, they last, and they can be removed without damaging the original harness.

http://www.posi-lock.com/

Wow, the posi-tap would have been ideal. I'm going to get an assortment and keep handy for the next project. Thanks Spaceman.


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How can the posi-tap not do some damage? It must puncture the insulation. I will do a test as I just got some as a trial. But I agree they look far better than the other choices.


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I just bought some. Yes there is a needle in the tap section of the connector which will puncture the cover of the factory wire. Much better than the whittling away of the wire cover I had to do. If I have to do anything else I may splice in a section of sacrificial wire that I can tap for whatever I need like additional lights and not have to worry about chopping up the factory wires any more than I already have.


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